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tommac
Member Since: 10 Aug 2011
Location: devon
Posts: 133
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bbyer, yes my thoughts exactly. i have ordered the rf reciever today from nick @ yeovil lr. Will be with me early next week so will keep you posted!
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1st Sep 2011 2:02 pm |
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tommac
Member Since: 10 Aug 2011
Location: devon
Posts: 133
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right. Changed the reciver last night- no joy still displaying hte same symptons. Its booked in with independant next week as i am at a loss now! will update once they have looked at it!
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9th Sep 2011 1:00 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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It will be interesting to see if the independent can figure out where the problem is. Whatever it is, it is something obscure as you have certainly investigated the obvious and not so obvious possibilities.
I still wonder per the wiring diagram, if there really is a second green wire splice and if so, just where it is located. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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10th Sep 2011 1:59 am |
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tommac
Member Since: 10 Aug 2011
Location: devon
Posts: 133
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Car was in yesterday to the local independant. Interesting results! the car reciver circuit is all ok- perm 12v supply etc all tested ok- they also checked the splice again to confirm all ok! The problem appears to lie with the remote keys- they have a littel gadget which picks up the signal sent fromthe fob- on mine when the signal is sent there gismo lights up when the fob is pressed but nothing happens, no signal is sent- hope this makes sense!!
So the way forward appears to be a battery fault in the fobs ( odd that both display the symptons- one more so than the other tho), so i have ordered 2 new batterires and will cut open the fobs- will do one and see if that cures the issue!
Pleased that there is some movement forward slightly disappointed with the fobs failing at such a relitively young age!
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13th Sep 2011 10:06 am |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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independent sounds well equipped |
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I am surprised that anyone would have a tester that listens for the signal or lack of it from the remote, let alone for Land Rover. It is almost as if problems with the remotes are a common problem.
As you are doing the "research", I find this all quite interesting. If I was having the problem, it would be no fun.
I guess we can presume that there is only one green wire splice then. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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13th Sep 2011 2:21 pm |
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tommac
Member Since: 10 Aug 2011
Location: devon
Posts: 133
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yes it appears there is only one green wire splice. They showed me the gismo, which i guess basicily puicks up the radio frequency but sure enough it lit up when the car locked/unlocked and then when nothing happened when the remote was pressed it didnt light up so appeared to be a genuine gismo!
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13th Sep 2011 3:26 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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RF Receiver is also a transmitter? |
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I was wondering what generates the RF signal that the tester was hearing? I suppose the RF Receiver could be both a receiver and transmitter but I thought the receiver was just that, a receiver. Perhaps something else transmits the signal. What is clear is that a signal was generated from somewhere on the vehicle and heard by the tester. One would therefor expect the tester to hear a similar signal from the key fob - odd that both fobs have died at the same time unless there is a defective batch of batteries - possible.
The fact the 3 transmits a signal suggests the key fob is not only a transmitter but also a receiver. I know it both listens and transmits for the engine start function, (range of a few centimetres), but for the door lock / unlock, I did not realize that.
I suppose that the tester has detected transmitted signals from key fobs on other D3's that are properly functioning?
Black art stuff - how do the thieves manage? I guess this is progress and why car jacking is now the technique of choice. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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13th Sep 2011 5:01 pm |
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tommac
Member Since: 10 Aug 2011
Location: devon
Posts: 133
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well, got round to changing hte baterries in the key fobs this weekend. now both fobs work perfectly! very strange but i am pleased with the reuslt as it now works 100% and the cost was £11.67!
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19th Sep 2011 1:06 pm |
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bbyer
Member Since: 25 Dec 2008
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 702
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had two burned out low beam headlights once |
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Odd really, but good news. That reminds me of the time I had two burned out low beam headlights seemingly at the same time. It took me awhile to figure out the solution was just replace the sealed beams.
I must not have noticed that one of the headlights was already burned out and then when the other went, the darkness was obvious so .... Actually this is what can happen when a low beam headlight is also a daytime running light and in the summer, we have only about 4 hours of darkness per day.
I suppose that you can now say that you are an expert at changing key fob batteries. Any hints as to how to pry the case apart? I imagine the second key fob was easier than the first one. 2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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19th Sep 2011 2:53 pm |
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tommac
Member Since: 10 Aug 2011
Location: devon
Posts: 133
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no real tips on hte fobs- just used a stanley knife and a flat blade screwdriver. go carefully so as not to damage the internal workings/circuit board. Oh and watch out for the spring on the key blade release!
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20th Sep 2011 7:56 am |
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