Member Since: 10 Sep 2008
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 221
Another Locking Wheel Nut Calamity
Hi Guys, have done a search but can't seem to find a definitive answer?
I have the dreaded spinning locking wheel nut, outer part spins, inner part where the lugs of the socket fit are chewed up and the socket rolls out ? (I have reason to believe it has been messed with - unlawfully that is)
It seems to be a common problem and the most promising threads that identify how to crack it are edited for security reasons.
Do you think one of these Halfords removal tools might do it?
Would be grateful for a PM from anyone in the know
Cheers
3rd Aug 2011 12:04 pm
hughes_jh
Member Since: 09 Jan 2011
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 294
Once got caught out when the garage failed to replace my locking wheel nut socket in a 3-series I had. Flat wheel on the motorway merited a phone call to the AA. The guy came out and used a special socket with a tapered thread (Like a female version of a stud extractor) and got it off ok.
Admittedly, the stud had only been put on a day or two before, if it had've been on for weeks I think it would have been FUBAR
My recommendation, go to a decent tyre place and they will do it
the way I did mine was to remove the alloy outer front edge (the bit that is spinning) carefully with a hammer and screwdriver/chisel. This reveals a splined spigot that you can hammer a 5/8 inch socket on to which I was then able to use to take the broken wheel not off with.
Others say to whack the key socket on with a club hammer although this renders the key useless afterwards.
Once you have got it off, take all the others off and replace with normal wheel nuts available from TheLargeOne The surest sign that intelligent life exists elsewhere in the universe is that none of it has tried to contact us yet.
3rd Aug 2011 12:56 pm
dsd1036
Member Since: 27 Feb 2010
Location: Surrey
Posts: 2692
Bin em
I some tw t is prepared to lift your 2.5 tonne D3 for its wheels then good luck to him is what i say
3rd Aug 2011 2:30 pm
Divlar
Member Since: 10 Sep 2008
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 221
Thanks for the replies guys but still no luck. Ive tried all ways and that alloy bit won't come off
Asked around local tyre and alloy wheel places who all pointed me to the same place - another garage, so went to see them and they 'had done one in the past but it took em all day, with dremmel and chisels' which is also more or less what Stratstone LR said.
Looked at those left hand threaded sockets that most places seem to have, but to use one of these I've gotta get it past the lip on that alloy head?
What I think I need is somekind of collet?
3rd Aug 2011 3:14 pm
Divlar
Member Since: 10 Sep 2008
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 221
That alloy cap is obviously hardened steel cos none of my drills will touch it.
I have given up for today as my blood is literally fizzing
However after looking at one of the Jag forums they suggest using something like a dremel to grind a deep slot in the hardened cap and then give it a good pi**er with a hammer and chisel to split or shatter it off. It will then expose the nut that you should be able to use the std removal tool on?
So I will be off to buy a dremel or somat in the morning, any suggestions for what type of cutting tool I should ask for as I am new to the miniature grinding world?
Well done JLR for designing such a fantastic anti-theft device
3rd Aug 2011 6:48 pm
John P
Member Since: 12 Aug 2011
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 1280
Hi, I've got exactly the same problem, and will be in the garage tomorrow to see how I can get it off. Bought some new ones to put on, but looking at them when they are clean they do not look like a good design. I might just put some normal nuts on.
If I have any success I'll post what I did.
Cheers
John
12th Aug 2011 7:01 pm
D4JWW
Member Since: 20 Oct 2009
Location: London, UK
Posts: 1318
I tried LR assist and warranty claim at stratstone but they did not want to help for free, so I paid 10forcash(site supporter) to undo one, took about an hour, best man for the job well that's if you can find him!A few mods... and keeping it all running...Faultmate MSV2
MY09EGR's blanked Thanks Bellautos, BAS
12th Aug 2011 7:56 pm
Divlar
Member Since: 10 Sep 2008
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 221
I got it off in the end relatively easily. I 'dremelled' a cross in the end of the hardened steel cap and where the end of each cut exposed the hardened steel cap to nut connection point (edge of spline), I put 4 spots of weld. No damage whatsoever and probably took about 15 mins max. I covered my wheel with baking foil to keep any spark/ spatter damage at bay.
If you haven't got access to a welder consider drilling some 3-4mm holes at the extremities of the cross into the head of the nut and insert some pins, something hard like needle roller brgs, they will give you some purchase to turn the whole assembly (or twist off and then you'll have to weld 'em , mind you I only had some stainless 3mm machine screws)
I have replaced them all now with standard nuts for the time being.
13th Aug 2011 9:07 am
John P
Member Since: 12 Aug 2011
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 1280
I succeeded as well. Unfortunately I don’t have access to a welder, only Oxygen and Acetylene, which won’t do the alloys any good. I ground off the top of the cap, and managed to cut into the rotating bit. I took a chisel and managed to split the collar and it came off. Then I hammered on a 10mm spark plug socket, and hey presto it came off. Before I knew what I was getting into, I bought a new set of locking nuts which are on the car now. I will definitely be getting a set of normal nuts, as I don’t want to be in the same predicament when off road doing green laning or in the Pyrenees or Morocco.
13th Aug 2011 7:15 pm
Divlar
Member Since: 10 Sep 2008
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 221
Well done. Its a shame they only appear to be truly effective as a lock nut when they get chewed up!
14th Aug 2011 8:00 am
Grunders
Member Since: 30 Apr 2011
Location: Manchester
Posts: 2328
Same problem with me today..... Outer case spinning and steel part chewed off, tried for ages, even hammering the locking nut on with no success, the way i resolved it was by the following....
Cut a slot in the hardened part with a 4" grinder, being careful not to touch the wheel
Drive a decent heavy duty flat blade screwdriver in the slot causing the outer hardened case to split, exposing the steel part behind, at that point i thought i'd be lucky and drive a 16mm socket onto the part left, however the nut was so tight it just sheared off.
I then got a 20mm steel drill bit and drilled until i got to the stud, i then got a small cold chisel and cut four slots in the remaining bits, once this was done i chisseled off each quarter, however after i chiseled off three sides the nut started to turn.... Happy days...
I am now contemplating ditching the locking nuts....If it ain't broke... Take it apart anyway, how else you gonna find out how it works
23rd Oct 2011 7:08 pm
ruggedpeak
Member Since: 10 Jun 2010
Location: UK
Posts: 1625
Interesting thread.....here's what happened to me last week
5 minutes before pulling out the drive to leave for an off road trip to the Pyrenees I double checked my wheel nuts. I found one locking one was spinning. I was passing the main dealer anyway so bought some normal nuts to swap it. Lo and behold it wouldn't come off.
Unbeknownst to me the lockers have 2 parts that are joined mechanically (obviously you know that already from the thread). No tyre fitters (ATS etc) or normal garage would touch it, and the LR main dealer said I'd have to book it in as it was potentially a big job! I had a Eurotunnel shuttle to catch
I was given the name of a small garage (after trying 5 others on a Friday afternoon) who cleared a ramp and had a go. Some while later the end of the nut had been angle grinded and chiseled off, another nut mig welded on and it was finally released.
I got to France three hours late but am eternally grateful to Kerry Garages in Chelmsford for giving it a go (they weren't overly hopeful at the start and were talking about having to cut the wheel off!). Luckily I had my off road wheels and tyres on so the damage from grinding, chiselling and welding was on the already damaged rims and not my best set. Notice the nut to the right has taken some bashing too!
Click image to enlarge
It's not pretty but I was in a rush and if I couldn't get the nut off then the whole trip was off as I couldn't afford a puncture half way up the Pyrenees and not get the wheel off. £40 for a replacement wheel if I want it is a damn sight cheaper than writing off a £1000+ trip.
GET RID OF YOUR LOCKING NUTS - it ain't worth the hassle! :evil:
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Last edited by ruggedpeak on 13th Oct 2013 5:08 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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t is prepared to lift your 2.5 tonne D3 for its wheels then good luck to him is what i say 
, mind you I only had some stainless 3mm machine screws)
