Member Since: 02 Sep 2008
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 335
Noticed recently that both front locking wheel nuts were split and the rears were looking very corroded. So ordered 4 standard nuts from Steve at Advanced Factors (prompt service as usual) and have just replaced the locking nuts all round.
3 of the lockers came off easily one was knackered and the key just tuned to no effect...luckily the cap just fell apart with a tap from a hammer leaving the splined lug underneath, hammered on an old 16mm 12 point socket and off it came with no bother. 4 standard nuts on now and this is what is going in the bin...
Click image to enlarge
So...get rid of your locking nuts before they cause you a world of grief...
23rd Jun 2015 10:49 am
vic7672
Member Since: 26 Jun 2015
Location: North Wales
Posts: 1
Locking wheel nut removal
Hi Guys,
So I had the same problem with the locking wheel nut end cap spinning.
I did exactly as suggested in previous replies,
Chiseled off the end cap ( luckily it was split so pretty much fell off)
Hammered on a 5/8 socket, attached a big knuckle bar and pushed ............... and sheared off the splined stub.
.
I was then left with the collar which had a hole in the middle so I could see the wheel stud.
I brought a set of Laser wheel nut extractors, no good don't fit.
I then managed to hammer a 24mm socket onto the collar, applied pressure and managed to unscrew the wheel nut, well what was left of it.
Phew!
Hope this helps.
26th Jun 2015 9:58 pm
martinsdisco3
Member Since: 23 Sep 2012
Location: County of Sutherland
Posts: 65
Locking wheel nuts no more
Two dremel cutting discs, two hammers on knuckles, one drill bit, lots of and
Current - Range Rover TDV8 2007 HSE.
Previous - Disco 3 - 2007 HSE Executive 83000 miles - GONE
Previous - Disco 2 - 1999 TD5 126000 miles - sold for Disco 3 as chassis was knackered
Hawkeye Diagnostic owner - for Disco 3
16th Aug 2015 1:46 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yep, that is pretty nasty!Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 15 Jul 2015
Location: Southampton, 'Ampshir'
Posts: 169
Having seen this thread and the pictures I replaced mine with standard nuts, and all the standard nuts too as they were swollen, today. All the lockers caps were starting to split and fitting the key needed a hammer on 2 of them... One/two less issue/s to worry about.
16th Aug 2015 9:20 pm
dstrange
Member Since: 04 Jan 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 11
Locking Wheel Nut Spinning - An alternative SIMPLE Solution
Hi, Oh dear, I too have fallen foul of the dreaded spinning locking wheel nut issue on my 2010 D4.
But I managed to get mine off today with a method that I've not seen mentioned elsewhere, so I thought I'd share it with you. I hope it helps.
Here's the summary of it.
As with other people, I bought a £25 dremmel, and as many do, I cut a slot in the top of the locking wheel nut. but I went on to cut my slot as deep as the dremmel grinding disc (30mm dia) would go (I'd say about 1/2 inch into the locking wheel nut cap). The difference in approach now is that, rather than taking the locking wheel nut cap off, I then gently hammered a 1" washer into the slot created and then hammered the other half of the protruding washer flat onto the top of the Locking wheel nut to get it out of the way. Then, using the locking wheel nut key, I undid the locking wheel nut as usual. That's it. No damage, low cost, No sweating. simple. This method takes about 15 mins. 30 mins if you do what I did and protect the wheel from damage (see below).
How it works: Well its simple cutting a 1/2 slot in the top of the locking wheel nut, basically cuts through the cap of the wheel nut and then a couple of mm into the collar of the nut itself. then inserting the washer locks the two parts together and stops the cap from spinnging, As the parts of the cap that engage with the locking wheel cap remover are still intact, the locking wheel nut comes undone.
Protecting the wheel: In my case, I'd just fitted the first of my four brand new wheels and tyres when the locking wheel nut failed. So I really didn't want to try a solution that would damage the wheel. So having PRACTICED with the Dremmel on one of the other locking wheel nuts I could still get off the car, in the vice in the shed and noticing that the Dremel can kick back a bit, I decided that I still needed to protect the wheel some how. So I got a 6 pint plastic milk bottle, cut of the top and put the top into the locking wheel nut hole, fits nicely around the locking wheel nut so you can still work. Lots of duck tape and masking tape over the top to hold it in place and protect the wheel from the sparks from the dremmel grinding wheel. and then cut away. Being careful, I only had a couple of slips and the grinding disk bounced of the milk bottle top neck rather than my alloy and the sparks all caught in the masking tape etc. So No damage.
Tools: Dremmel <£30 with a couple of mini grinding disk circa 30mm came with it. (disks ends up about 25mm once you've cut the groove) Washer - get one the same size as the top of your locking wheel nut or slightly smaller. Small hammer, masking tape, Duck tape.
Considerations: This worked for me, the cause of my locking wheel nut failure may have been me over tightening it or maybe just a faulty design, so I don't think that mine was on loose by any means. This solution uses what you've got rather than getting rid of it. I.e. the top cap of the locking wheel nut is fine, its just spinning, The bottom part of the locking wheel nut has by this time, usually been warn down so the locking wheel nut key can't get hold of it anymore. So first attempts in my opinion should be to lock the two parts back together (with eg a washer) before trying other alternative solutions which rely on removing the cap etc. Also, because I practiced on one of the other locking wheel nuts that I could get off, I also took the cap off to see what was underneath. The collar underneath isn't that thick, So if you do take the cap off, then the collar underneath won't be up to much. But with the cap still on the whole thing still has the integrity of the cap which gives support to the collar underneath.
Don't forget to align the top and bottom parts of the locking wheel nut before cutting the grove.
Practice - Practising anything is a good idea, especially away from your nice alloys. Take off one of your other locking wheel nuts, Stick it in a vice and try cutting it with the dremmel. try your washer for size, with your LR locking wheel nut remover in situ. whilst my "practice" locking wheel nut was in the vice, I also tried hitting the thing with a mallet and a chisel. I hit the thing a hundred times, harder and harder, in the end i hit mine so hard that it broke the vice! and guess what, the cap was still intact! So I can't imagine what state your alloy is going to be in if you choose this chisel the cap off method.
nothing to loose: If this doesn't work, for you, then your no worse off, taking the cap off, seems to be the first step in most other solutions. Don't be fooled by the Dremmel diminutive size, 28000 RPM and a small grinding disk.... its pretty capable. I was surprised.
Dealership: my local dealership wanted £200 and couldn't guarantee the alloy wouldn't get damaged.
If this doesn't work, Other options:
If this doesn't work for you (and I hope it does), and you do have to take the cap off then I'd dremmel as much off it as you can. Also, cut your groove across the top between two weakest points I.e where the locking wheel nut key indents are so it will take less force to break with say a chisel.
Then in my opinion your into one of the other options discussed in this thread:
1) Using a locking wheel nut remover either a reverse thread type or similar (but that collar under the cap isn't up to much.
2) Using a screw remover, Insert into the bolt hole and then the increasing size reverse thread should grab hold of the collar, (which will probably fall apart at this point), so you may need to shorten the length of the screw remover quite a bit with a grinding wheel. I tested a screw removed on my practice locking wheel nut in the vice and I found that I could get plenty of force into it to make it spin the whole nut in the fully tightened vice. (this was going to be my next step if the washer didn't work)
3) Welding on a nut to the collar or the remainder of the locking wheel nut.
4) Any other option you can think of
My main advise is to stay calm and spend some time thinking about it.
Good Luck!
ps Locking wheel nuts now all replaced with normal nuts.
Photos of the locking wheel nut with washer in situ etc available if needed. but its as simple as it sounds.A disco 2, wanting a 3 since 2004, not any more, I've got a 4!
28th Nov 2015 7:09 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73056
To all those that haven't binned their lockers read this ^^^^^^^^^^^^. Then buy 4 standard wheelnuts and get rid of those lockers.
NOW!!!!!
Click image to enlarge
Last edited by DSL on 28th Nov 2015 8:34 pm. Edited 1 time in total
28th Nov 2015 7:19 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Another job to add to my to do list for F/B when I get her into the garage finally. Just been too busy last few weeks.
I've had lots of experience over the years getting locking bolts and nuts off friends and family's cars. I've tried pretty much all of the above mentioned plus a few
More. The side pressure method works very well when the key is worn but still present. I use a bottle jack though instead of a scissor jack. I'll pick up some new bolts from Bearmach and add them to the pile of bits that's growing in the boot to change. LolJarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
28th Nov 2015 8:23 pm
DerbyshireDisco
Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 1397
I have been meaning to ask if the same catastrophe befel D4 owners but it appears that it does.
Will organise non locking nuts next week.Displaced Yorkshireman.
=^:^=
SDV6 Auto obviously, Loire blue/Ebony, ugly kid glass, RLD wheel protector, private plate and maybe side steps.
28th Nov 2015 8:58 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73056
No reason it wouldn't, it looks exactly the same part. Remember to be called a "new" car it only has to have 25% new bits. The lockers look like part of the 75%.
28th Nov 2015 9:00 pm
DerbyshireDisco
Member Since: 12 Mar 2012
Location: Derbyshire
Posts: 1397
Thanks .Displaced Yorkshireman.
=^:^=
SDV6 Auto obviously, Loire blue/Ebony, ugly kid glass, RLD wheel protector, private plate and maybe side steps.
28th Nov 2015 9:04 pm
Discomadness
Member Since: 19 Jan 2015
Location: Caerphilly
Posts: 2256
Well I have to praise the forum and the collective once again. I came across one of the threads relating to the locking wheel bolt issue and decided to check my own. Thank you all for making this knowledge available ! All my end caps were cracked and seperating. In a panic I went to Bearmach and bought 4 standard wheel nuts. Luckily all 4 locking wheel nuts were not tight and came off easily bar the last one which came off but cracked apart inside the key ! How close a shave did I have in this instance. Thank you to whoever started this thread ! I owe you a beer.
Jarrod
Current : D3 2007 HSE - AKA the lemon
-beanie grille
-detango with led bulbs
-club body off rebuild. TWICE.
7th Jan 2016 5:10 pm
deanslandy
Member Since: 17 Jan 2015
Location: nuneaton
Posts: 651
Hi everyone, about to show my ignorance
This sounds a right son of a and I would welcome any advice that I can follow to avoid falling into this trap so if I understand correctly then there is one locking nut on each wheel that needs replacing with a standard nut???.
Was the original idea of the locking nut to prevent the wheels from being stolen and if so what prevents this from happening?? Belts, oil pump casing and water pump by Flack
Transmission flush by Geoff
7th Jan 2016 5:48 pm
adam
Member Since: 20 Sep 2005
Location: Home and Happy
Posts: 6917
Bought my set from AF and asked nicely for my local friendly tyre fitter to get the bu**gers off (for the price of bacon butties for the lads) using an oversized socket (wheel repair bloke couldn't get them off - which is what prompted me to get rid) - all now sorted
Fitter said they are a nightmare - so do as DSL says - and now
Deanslandy - nothing to stop someone nicking them - apart from it weighs nearly 3 tons
Last edited by adam on 7th Jan 2016 6:07 pm. Edited 2 times in total
7th Jan 2016 5:54 pm
JMack
Member Since: 02 Aug 2014
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1517
deanslandy wrote:
Was the original idea of the locking nut to prevent the wheels from being stolen and if so what prevents this from happening??
Yes.
Nothing.
But, when was the last time you saw a car on bricks with the alloy wheels stolen from it?
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