Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset See It Here
30th May 2012 9:43 am
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18560
Ouch! Sorry to hear Ian [and cmarsh] 06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
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30th May 2012 10:19 am
Russell
Member Since: 23 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
Looking at the pictures it is difficult to make out, is the casting that has failed part of the block or is it a diffrent casting that is bolted to the block?
If it is the block I would think the casting is very vey thin in that area for a main block and especially as that area has a torqued high stress fitting attached in that area.MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
MY15 D4 HSE Kaikoura Stone
MY12 D4 HSE Nara Bronze Sold and gone
MY11 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey Sold and gone
D3 S spec Silver Sold and gone
Tow bar, full length roof bars, side steps, tow bar storage unit, surround camers.
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This is what it should look like but to me its not man enough for the job...
Click image to enlarge
Flack
30th May 2012 9:24 pm
buda
Member Since: 24 Jan 2010
Location: strathclyde
Posts: 334
OMG this is terrible news for you guys.......I am so sorry to hear this .........mines is an 07 plate at 75,000 miles and its a worry that it might be "when rather than if" it happens.........
looks like we will need a part number for the casting piece that the idler bolts to so that can get changed at the same time as the belt change or even as a preventative measure.........
I hope the repairs go well.......
30th May 2012 9:41 pm
stapldm
Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2330
Flack wrote:
This is what it should look like but to me its not man enough for the job...
Flack, that looks to me like the 'failing' part is in fact separate to the block and bolted to it. I'm assuming the darker colour is the block and the lighter colour is a tin foil cast alloy separate assembly bolted on by the bolts visible in your photo...in which case if we had a replacement plate from an 09MY (assuming they're better) could we replace this nightmare before it breaks?
An interested MY07er...Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone?
31st May 2012 9:54 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20836
I would be tempted to go for an early one, an 05-06MY, never heard of an issue until 07 models...My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 11 Sep 2006
Location: Swine Town
Posts: 2330
Mikey, do you know if that's just a bolt on plate that can be ordered separately and easily replaced? Earlier makes sense, but are they still available or have they been superceeded?
I'd need to know that it's a different design/construction before ordering one, so would hope it had a different part number to show the revision...I'd hate to put in a new one with the same 2007 fault Dr. Ian Malcolm:
"Yeah, but your scientists were so preoccupied with whether or not they could, they didn't stop to think if they should."
Transgenic tomato anyone?
I am not sure if the plate can be bought as a separate item, and also if it can be just replaced. I am not sure but it goes around the crank shaft on on to the sump so it might not be possible to change it at belt change time..maybe Disco_Mikey knows if it can be changed.
But my picture above is from a 2005 D3 and they all look the same to the naked eye...
One theory I was looking at is if the new bolt that comes with the tensioner is the correct length as the hole goes right through the mounting plate. If the bolt was to long only by a few threads then this would be enough to put the plate under stress in the way its broken.
Bodsy needs to check on the engine block to see if there is evidence that the bolt has fouled the block when fitted with the new tensioner...
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