Member Since: 24 Apr 2019
Location: Stavanger
Posts: 14
Another thank you to Filo (and all other contributors in this thread). This time from Norway..
I got out 3,6 liter in the first run - then I poured the same amount back through the cooler inlet - then repeated the same procedure, resulting in another 3,5 liters of black a badly smelling ATF. "Pushed" in another 3,5 liters of fresh oil from Ravenol resulting in a total of 7 liters of new oil.
The method worked like a charm and the gearbox behaves completely different now. Much smoother and quicker. My RRS is at 255´km now and I don't think the oil ever has been changed.
I bought 20 liters of ATF from Ravenol so I guess I´ll be driving a few thousand kilometers now and then repeat. Thinking about changing the pan and filter also, but actually, I´m kind of skeptical if it is needed.
5th May 2019 3:40 pm
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1130
The filter will need changing so a new pan will also be needed.
6th May 2019 1:04 pm
Dave InOz
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: NSW
Posts: 37
I just bought a big boat and decided I should do this. Also every other oil in the car.
I used this, first you pull up the tab untill the bigger white inner core is fully extended then you twist the tap and pull up the iner tube all the way. No pump needed for a pan/filter change.
3rd Jan 2020 6:50 am
Dave InOz
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: NSW
Posts: 37
Ravenoil 6HP for transmition I also found you can now use Ravenoil TF 0870 Transfer fluid for the transfer case. A massive saving over the LR oil. I pay trade Aus $ 27 per Liter (Instead of LR $90 PL)
Last edited by Dave InOz on 3rd Jan 2020 7:30 am. Edited 1 time in total
3rd Jan 2020 6:56 am
Dave InOz
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: NSW
Posts: 37
I have rod extenders and raised the car fully offroad height + Extended. Drove the front up on car ramps so it was on a steep slope and drained the sump. After 2 hours I had 5.7 liters out. I roled down to level ground and added 3 liters. I then did the Filo method but had to stop pumping out at 2.3 liters roughly as I had only bought 7 liters. The Ravenoil is a urine like colour and it hadn't come through before I had to stop. I pumped all the rest in through the cooler line except 1 liter. That went in through the sump and nothing came out untill I got to 45 deg C, I was really woried I had drained too much. Every one seems to be only geting 5 to 6 liters out, I think I would have got really close to 9 If I Kept going.
I think this is the way to get the most new oil into the transmision.
Last edited by Dave InOz on 3rd Jan 2020 7:27 am. Edited 1 time in total
3rd Jan 2020 7:09 am
Dave InOz
Member Since: 28 Jun 2016
Location: NSW
Posts: 37
My car had the steel pan and I know it was changed 120 000 KM ago (not by me). It was a bit black, I put another new pan and filter in. There was nothing on the magnets. If I am going do it again I would just change the oil. I don't think the filter is doing that much, unless your getting fine metal or gasket pieces (then I would), but it's probally not worth changing except at long, long, intervals (it was originally sealed for life).
3rd Jan 2020 7:26 am
Jonmoore1970
Member Since: 19 Apr 2020
Location: Wokingham
Posts: 125
Can someone please tell me why people are only getting 4.5-5 litres out with this method.....this means almost half of the box still has dirty oil in it.......I want the whole lot replaced.
19th Jun 2020 3:27 pm
Jonmoore1970
Member Since: 19 Apr 2020
Location: Wokingham
Posts: 125
Tripe wrote:
If you not going to change the filter, I reckon you could do a DIY mega flush.
I purchased 20 litre of Fuchs ATF, it had readable increments on the side to see the volume left in the container,
You could run a length of 1/2" tube from the new atf fluid container to the radiator nipple, and from
The disconnected rubber ATF line connect some 1/2" tubing to an empty 20 litre drum.
Turn the car on and the new oil will be sucked into the cooler, while the old oil is deposited into the waste drum, when the oil changes colour from black to the new atf fluid colour, turn the engine off
Then remove the plug from the side of the transmission and topup with fluid.
Surely this is the easiest and most obvious method.....can anyone tell me why this isn’t the best way to ensure all old old is removed?
19th Jun 2020 4:03 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5093
The remainder of the oil is dispersed throughout the transmission's internal galleries, passages, hydraulic lines, and the torque converter.
If you want to get it all out you need to flush the system by adding the same quantity of fresh oil, as that which you are extracting.
Get a professional flush or, make your own DIY system.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
19th Jun 2020 4:05 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10773
Not all transmissions will suck oil in. It’s a bit risky
If you get 5 litres out your doing ok
Pump it out the front cooler with engine running.
Wait as long as possible
Then drain out remainder out the sump
Refill
If you are concerned that hasn’t changed enough oil or it is still dirty then change again in 6-12 months
19th Jun 2020 5:18 pm
Jonmoore1970
Member Since: 19 Apr 2020
Location: Wokingham
Posts: 125
Thanks Pete
19th Jun 2020 7:22 pm
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2908
I use an electric pump to force in new oil in stead of allowing just suction, simple cheap diesel pump works, but i do it 1 litre out then one litre in and repeat till I’ve done 6 litres - old Pepsi or coke bottles allow you to see the colour out and act as a rough measureMust stop buying shiny toys....
21st Jun 2020 11:37 am
pagoda
Member Since: 13 Aug 2009
Location: Not London Anymore (or the US for that matter)
Posts: 1929
Just adding to this thread for V8 users as someone was asking on another forum: see the 5th page of this thread - photo of the hose and corresponding spigot. The hose has a simple jubilee clip on it and is next to the coolant reservoir.
Place a rag
Remove the hose
Attach 3/8" dia hose to the now exposed spigot and place the other end in a receptacle that holds >5L and secure the end of the hose/get a helper
Start the engine and after about 30s the flow will dry up. Run through the gears during that 30s. Switch off.
Remove the tranny heat shield
Do whatever else you want to do (e.g. drain the extra litre from the pan that you might get)
Crack open the fill plug (may take a lot of force)
Refill with 5L of fluid through the hose you removed to expose the spigot you drained through above
Start engine
Warm up the fluid to 30-40c (IID tool, live values, transmission, etc)
Open the filler plug and allow the excess to flow out until it's a small drip
Burn arm/hand on catalytic converter
Tighten plug
Burn arm on catalytic converter
Replace heat shield
Check for leaks
Test drive & check for leaksPAGODA
15th Aug 2020 9:28 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14195
Plse don’t throw anything at me but may i ask a daft question please ref an automatic gearbox
If u jack the back up to lift both wheels off the ground and use axle stands , if u turned the prop would that rotate the torque converter and allow more oil to come out via the gearboxes drain plug plse
Many thks in advance and will take cover
16th Aug 2020 3:43 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10773
TC is more at the engine end, so prob not.
Leaving it a week let’s it drain a bit more though
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