Member Since: 28 Feb 2009
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 277
Filo - Those instructions and your method are brilliant . I then used a garden spray as suggested by Mike767 which I bought for £9.99 from Screwfix (7 litre model) to refill the gearbox and the whole job was done in less than half an hour. Mine used 4.5 litres and I'll run around with that in for a few days then change again. Another BIG bonus is my transmission judder has gone, well at least for now anyway.
Can't thank you enough.
25th Mar 2013 3:52 pm
MGH87
Member Since: 29 Mar 2012
Location: Telemark
Posts: 36
catweasel wrote:
Mike767 wrote:
The pipe that Filo is pointing at in his photo is the outlet
for clarity
Actually it is the opposite way around! I also found that picture in the ZF manual, but the feed line is on the top of the radiator, not in the bottom. Flushed mine today with Fuchs 4134 ATF oil. Only got a partial flush for now though, got just under 4 litres out. Probably because the car leaned to the right while performing the flush..
3rd May 2013 4:05 pm
mir999
Member Since: 12 Mar 2011
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 40
This seems a good price for a M1375.4 oil which seems to meet all the spec?
Comments welcome.
M
22nd May 2013 1:31 pm
crazy
Member Since: 27 Jan 2008
Location: Near Milan
Posts: 1852
Hi, mix this type of oil with the original LR TYK 500050 oil can create problems?Landy lover
Membro del Club
23rd May 2013 6:42 am
rovervirus
Member Since: 31 Oct 2012
Location: behind the sun
Posts: 92
hey guys,
I am also confronted with this type of "how to maintain your rover by yourself"
it is a 06 tdv6 with 130 tkm on the clock.
I was told by a professional gearbox rebuilder, that they use the
ravenol 6HP for all 6HP26 gearboxes (X5, Audi, Jags, ect.) and I thought by
myself: if this oil is good enough for german cars it should be okay for rovers.
(sic!)
first i drained app 4 liters of old (dark oil) and filled up as described while engine running.
next is (this weekend) to drain again and to replace the pan.
for these guys searching for alternative oils:
ravenol 6HP has the same sepc. than the genuine oil from landrover or ZF.
i bought a 20 liter can for 125.- euro incl vat and shipping (germany) directly
from ravenol-shop.
I do NOT work vor ravenol, this is just a hint for other enthusiasts
cheers
btw: axle diffs got a standard SAE 75w90, working fine.
only for the transfer box I will have to buy the genuine crap...
31st May 2013 6:59 pm
rovervirus
Member Since: 31 Oct 2012
Location: behind the sun
Posts: 92
something to add:
did make the change of the oilpan yesterday,
lifting the engine was mandatory, but I cut the tube
of the filterhousing of the plastic pan with a sawblade
after unscrewing all screws.
made it easier to remove the pan.
the steelpan could be mounted without engine lifted.
for dismounting the screws (where the frame is hiding them)
i bought a 1/4" bit-holder with a wrench, snapped a TX40 bit
to it and unscrewing the screws becomes a peace of cake.
if you kill one of those screws, well.... then you are toast.
cheers
2nd Jun 2013 6:51 pm
crazy
Member Since: 27 Jan 2008
Location: Near Milan
Posts: 1852
The oil you used (Ravenol) has the same characteristics of the ZF but is compatible with it or mix the two oils could create problems?Landy lover
Membro del Club
3rd Jun 2013 7:15 am
relikade
Member Since: 18 Oct 2012
Location: Hertfordshire
Posts: 238
The image in the original post shows the oil cooler pipe, any idea where this is located on the 3.0 TDV6 ?
sorry, just seen your post
no idea but it should look quite the same
you'd do the test but you need someone to start and suddenly shut the engine
better you ask D4 guys on the "other side" of the forum
F.
12th Jun 2013 8:34 am
walkin_disaster
Member Since: 17 Jun 2013
Location: Inverness
Posts: 11
Hi.
Can I ask the benefits of draining the oil by intercepting it at the oil cooler over simply using the drain plug on the sump?
Surely what ever is in the cooler/lines will drain back to the sump?
I changed my oil before reading any of the guidance and it took 5 litres to fill, which sounds similar to some of the figures some others have mentioned - strange how there is a variation in volume used.
I will be performing another change after doing a couple hundred miles.
some say (cit.) this is a better way to "flush" the box
in fact, if you're able to feed the box with the pressurized can while motor is running, the torque convertor is flushed at the same time
if you simply drain the fluid from the sump the convertor stays "full" of old fluid
F.
24th Jun 2013 10:06 am
er1c
Member Since: 24 Jan 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 183
Does anyone know the size of the two extension hoses needed for draining/filling?
Also is it possible to fill the fluid with a hand pump, or do you need the extra force of a pneumatic pump?Long Ranger aux fuel tank, Traxide w/ yellow top battery, Sasquatch rods, G4 tail guards, GVIF 6.2, CarPC (Dual-Core Atom D525, 64GB SSD, 4GB DDR3 & M3-ATX 125W PSU, Win7 Pro 64 w/ Centrafuse 3.5), Yaesu FT-8900R ham radio w/ Comet CA-2x4SR, reverse CCD camera, RLD laptop seat mount, RLD roof antenna mount, Viair 400P compressor, 3K xenons, 2.5K halogen fogs, Series 3 mudflaps, 1.25" Wheel Spacers (Motorsport Tech), Baja Roof Rack
it should be 10 mm but better if you check, it's simple
a hand pump should be enough, it will take you more time but it should do the trick: better if you keep the fluid fluid (warm)
F.
6th Dec 2013 3:01 pm
er1c
Member Since: 24 Jan 2011
Location: New York
Posts: 183
Filo, thanks for the response. I just went out to measure the I.D. of the tubing, but unfortunately our set-up is different. I have a V8 --- perhaps you have the turbo diesel or V6? I'll have to get underneath and see if I can follow the tubing from the transmission.
Also, warming the fluid is a great tip! I was using a hand pump for the differentials and it went so slowly. A friend told me to put the fluid containers in a hot container of water, and sure enough it made the oil more fluid and pumped much quicker. Thanks Long Ranger aux fuel tank, Traxide w/ yellow top battery, Sasquatch rods, G4 tail guards, GVIF 6.2, CarPC (Dual-Core Atom D525, 64GB SSD, 4GB DDR3 & M3-ATX 125W PSU, Win7 Pro 64 w/ Centrafuse 3.5), Yaesu FT-8900R ham radio w/ Comet CA-2x4SR, reverse CCD camera, RLD laptop seat mount, RLD roof antenna mount, Viair 400P compressor, 3K xenons, 2.5K halogen fogs, Series 3 mudflaps, 1.25" Wheel Spacers (Motorsport Tech), Baja Roof Rack
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. I then used a garden spray as suggested by Mike767 
