Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Members Map · Groups · Profile · Donate ·
Log In
|
- You are currently viewing DISCO3.CO.UK as a guest - Register to take part or Log In
AWD man
Member Since: 03 Jul 2009
Location: In Drag
Posts: 831
|
Quickie question about cruise control panel removal |
|
Is this a "turn off & remove airbag" job?
( I've spilt orange juice down the left hand panel and now the c/c switch sometims sticks on "+" )
Just want to remove it and clean up the terminals 57 RRS TDV8
BAS Map
D3: Gone but not forgotten
|
3rd Jun 2010 12:01 pm |
|
|
BBS SPY
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 15 Jun 2007
Location: Sunny Cyprus
Posts: 3054
|
I have my wheel switches out on a regular basis, as i am working on a D4 wheel mod.
First, with the engine running, rotate the wheel to the optimum positions to allow removal of the two torx screws from the back. Then turn the wheel upside down and remove the ign key.
Give it about 5 mins and then using the bent wire tool the construction of which is shown in a few places on this forum, de latch the two airbag retaining barbs.
Having the wheel upside down then allows you to pull the airbag out a small way and rest it 90 degrees out, balancing it neatly on the now lower wheel rim. Bodily grab the switch pack and yank it forward towards you so that its two retaining barbs de lodge from the metal wheel part. Un plug the connector and take it to the bench for dissasembly and cleaning. When you get the front off you will note a few small white bits of plastic that fit into shaped holes in each button. Do not loose any. It is likely these that are now causing the sticking and will need soaking in water, although you might also need to wash the face of the rubber / silicone membrane Its likely the PCB itself will be fine. You will also need to wash the front plastic face complete with buttons into which the white bits fit. Make sure everything is dry before re assembly.
Although these bits might well have had some sticky OJ on them that you have cleaned off and you could well just re assemble and everything would work fine. If you are a stickler for detail like me, i should tell you that you have very likely also cleaned off something not quite as un desirable as the OJ in the process.
I refer to a small amount of silicone lubricant that is incorporated in order to allow all the plastic bits to slide and move over each other more freely.
The commonest and most readily availiable form of this is in the common dash board shine sprays such as flash dash, cockpit shine and so on. So if you have some of this to hand, give the white bits and the inside of the front switch panel a quick squirt and all will be smooth as silk and squeek free.
BTW if you do need to wash the PCB at all, obviously make sure its well dried out. And just prior to re assembly go over the gold contacts with a regular pencil rubber to remove all contaminants. Dont use an abrasive one, that glints in the sun, just the regular pink or white rubber type found on the back of a pencil.
|
3rd Jun 2010 8:54 pm |
|
|
puffsorted
Member Since: 14 Dec 2008
Location: Kent
Posts: 112
|
In other words -'Yes'
BBS SPY wrote:I have my wheel switches out on a regular basis, as i am working on a D4 wheel mod.
First, with the engine running, rotate the wheel to the optimum positions to allow removal of the two torx screws from the back. Then turn the wheel upside down and remove the ign key.
Give it about 5 mins and then using the bent wire tool the construction of which is shown in a few places on this forum, de latch the two airbag retaining barbs.
Having the wheel upside down then allows you to pull the airbag out a small way and rest it 90 degrees out, balancing it neatly on the now lower wheel rim. Bodily grab the switch pack and yank it forward towards you so that its two retaining barbs de lodge from the metal wheel part. Un plug the connector and take it to the bench for dissasembly and cleaning. When you get the front off you will note a few small white bits of plastic that fit into shaped holes in each button. Do not loose any. It is likely these that are now causing the sticking and will need soaking in water, although you might also need to wash the face of the rubber / silicone membrane Its likely the PCB itself will be fine. You will also need to wash the front plastic face complete with buttons into which the white bits fit. Make sure everything is dry before re assembly.
Although these bits might well have had some sticky OJ on them that you have cleaned off and you could well just re assemble and everything would work fine. If you are a stickler for detail like me, i should tell you that you have very likely also cleaned off something not quite as un desirable as the OJ in the process.
I refer to a small amount of silicone lubricant that is incorporated in order to allow all the plastic bits to slide and move over each other more freely.
The commonest and most readily availiable form of this is in the common dash board shine sprays such as flash dash, cockpit shine and so on. So if you have some of this to hand, give the white bits and the inside of the front switch panel a quick squirt and all will be smooth as silk and squeek free.
BTW if you do need to wash the PCB at all, obviously make sure its well dried out. And just prior to re assembly go over the gold contacts with a regular pencil rubber to remove all contaminants. Dont use an abrasive one, that glints in the sun, just the regular pink or white rubber type found on the back of a pencil.
|
4th Jun 2010 4:59 pm |
|
|
|
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
|
|
|
DISCO3.CO.UK Copyright © 2004-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
|
|
DISCO3.CO.UK is independent and not affiliated to Land Rover.