Member Since: 06 May 2005
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6mm or 8mm aluminium
So who thinks that 8mm is better than 6mm.
DiscussIn the Beginning there was nothing, which exploded.
7th Oct 2009 6:13 pm
MacLeod 313
Member Since: 18 Apr 2008
Location: away
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My thinking is that 8mm obviously thicker than 6mm, but the 6mm is up to the job IMHO, and anyway, if you hit something hard enough to bend a 6mm Plate for instance, would'nt more be damaged to the D3, and your your current driving style be in question.
Anyway, 6mm can be reformed by the owner (JUST) when bent, 8mm gonna need a press or heavy duty whacking
7th Oct 2009 6:17 pm
xtc
Member Since: 27 Mar 2007
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 1072
Am I allowed not to give a toss! Off Roading is OK.... But I'd rather be Boating!
7th Oct 2009 6:17 pm
AndrewS Tarquin of the Desert
Member Since: 06 May 2005
Location: Y...... because I can
Posts: 10442
You can toss where you want.
MacLeod
Thanks you have just proved my point, You don't know Your answer should have been what grade
For instance 6mm Marine grade ally is a lot stronger than 8mm standard.
Do a google search on Grades of Aluminium and you will see In the Beginning there was nothing, which exploded.
7th Oct 2009 6:24 pm
MacLeod 313
Member Since: 18 Apr 2008
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Post edited due to corporate Pm's
Last edited by MacLeod 313 on 10th Oct 2009 10:35 pm. Edited 1 time in total
7th Oct 2009 6:35 pm
SN
Member Since: 03 Jan 2006
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I'd ask Uncle Ray Steve N | 21MY Defender | 08MY Discovery 3 (history) | 06MY Discovery 3 (ancient history)
7th Oct 2009 6:36 pm
simon
Member Since: 11 Jan 2005
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 18296
Also, given the various thickness and grades...
Surely, unless there is some give / deformation of the plate, there would be more damage to the areas where the plate is fixed to the vehicle. Potentially causing more damage if the plate was too sturdy ?
Especially under the front bumper.
Absorption of the impact would need to be a factor in design.
BTW, I am a numptie on all things like this, but it seems logical to me.
7th Oct 2009 6:41 pm
MacLeod 313
Member Since: 18 Apr 2008
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Post edited due to corporate Pm's
Last edited by MacLeod 313 on 10th Oct 2009 10:36 pm. Edited 1 time in total
7th Oct 2009 6:44 pm
AndrewS Tarquin of the Desert
Member Since: 06 May 2005
Location: Y...... because I can
Posts: 10442
Who mentioned plates not me. Just making you aware that thicker is not always better. I made a rear diff guard out of 6mm thick soft (pliable) ally for the Desert Storm comp. The guard worked 100% but was totally trashed.In the Beginning there was nothing, which exploded.
Last edited by AndrewS on 7th Oct 2009 7:24 pm. Edited 1 time in total
I hit a hidden rock. This was the result. And I prefer this than the alternative to not having a front plate...(the car came to a halt, although I was creeping forward very slowly)
The next American ex-pat that calls it a "truck" is going to find out what 2.7 tons feels like on their foot...
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You can harden the surface of most ally plate by hard anodising, this is what they do to aluminium caliper, suspension parts, floor pans etc. you can maintain the weight saving of ally whilst gaining strength, wear resistance, surface hardness etc.
Therefore a 6mm plate can be made to out perform an 8mm plate. Simples
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What the Meerkat CG said
The clients I share a building with a ally specialist in the water industry and they put hard anodised 6mm stuff on a competition-spec 'fender. My biggest clients are ally ship builders and a cheap source of marine ally and they just built an ice-breaker using it 8) , and the friendly chaps down the road will make anything you like out of steel. Ally is around 35% lighter (depending on type / treatment) then steel, but the equivalent weight will typically be stronger...although steel will typically bend a lot more before it breaks!. That's why protection shields on satellites are aluminium alloy. It takes over 60,000 pounds per square inch (psi) to tear apart a chunk of mild steel, and 30,000 psi to deform the same piece. With aluminum, around 45,000 psi will tear it apart, and around 35,000 psi will deform it. As for the relative performance of different grades of aluminium...well, I just ask a man who knows better then me! (Or Wiki it!)
Bottom line is...for what? And if whatever it is is really a big enough issue (and you are rich enough) then why not composite? Or if you want an armoured HUMVEE then I think 1.5" thick 2519 precipitation-hardened aluminium sheet is the typical choice
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9th Oct 2009 8:37 pm
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26775
Just remember, whatever thickness ally you use, if you do bend it you will probably need to heat treat it to straighten it out, or it will crack.
Personally I think - therefore I am............Not in the slightest bit interested.
For me the guard is there to offer SOME protection to the underside of the car during any offroad driving I may do, remembering that the car is a) my daily drive, and b) I don't have limitless amounts of money to load my car with all the stuff which no doubt looks good but which I would seldom if ever use in anger around the M25 which is where I do most of my driving. So I'm a little bit more careful offroad.....
I would like to remove my steps and fit sill protection of some sort but due to reasons I won't go into here I can't. So the steps stay and take a battering on occassion offroad and yes they do offer some (albeit little) protection to the sills......
I think the phrase is - personal choice and fit for purpose. FORECAST FOR TONIGHT: things have happened out there!!!
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10th Oct 2009 12:01 am
MacLeod 313
Member Since: 18 Apr 2008
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Posts: 10723
My Mantec is 8mm, is it any better than GNVP's or RLD's plates who knows, who gives a
6mm or 8mm, who gives a toss, what makes them as long as that rock stays away from the vunerable areas.
Last edited by MacLeod 313 on 10th Oct 2009 10:37 pm. Edited 1 time in total
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