Member Since: 28 Apr 2017
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 934
Does this sound like I've just experienced the same problem?
reversed the D3 onto the drive, put it in park and put the handbrake on - to be met with a god awful loud screeching noise, so loud in fact that I thought it was coming form building works next door!!
then hand brake warning light on the dash.
anything I can do to reset it?
could someone help me understand what's actually happened please as I'm new to these cars.
thanks
16th Jul 2017 7:27 pm
KS2017
Member Since: 01 Jul 2017
Location: Essex
Posts: 7
We had a parking brake sensor issue and had the EPB replaced but it didn't fix it.
As it wasn't stopping the car from driving, we kept driving it.
We had a new issue with the ride height a few weeks ago. It happened while the car was parked, it would self level to the bump stops. we thought the sensor had gone. Plugged in the nanocom to discover all the factory setting had cleared themselves so the car didn't know what level it was at.
We asked a friend who is a ex master technician to plug his box of tricks into it to reset the heights for us after helping us fit a new sensor but it turned out LR had sent the wrong side so didn't actually get fitted. While he was looking in at it, he asked if we were having issues with the parking brake and a few other items which we confirmed we did have issues with. He confirmed it was most likely be because of a known fault with the original loom and not the sensor. The loom is so encase, it holds water and corrodes the wiring eventually! it also looked that someone has tried to by-pass it on the loom before we bought it.
Just waiting to replace the loom the upgraded version and reset the ride heights yet as the car has thrown out the factory settings yet again.
He is going to get us a new improved loom and help us fit it at in a week or two.
I don't know if this is the same problem you've just started to experience but we got to this conclusion though a bit of trial and error which can be expensive way to diagnose the issue.
17th Jul 2017 12:50 pm
Ben4
Member Since: 28 Apr 2017
Location: Buckinghamshire
Posts: 934
presume it's ok to just leave the car in Park for now and not use the handbrake until I get the chance to sort it?
18th Jul 2017 1:24 pm
harryrodger@btinternet.com
Member Since: 27 Aug 2014
Location: FIFE SCOTLAND
Posts: 1
Hand brake cable you don't need to pull it fare out but watch direction you pull as shown in book and watch it does not catch on plastic put towards steering wheel. But the brake jammed on will be the shoes inside the centre off disc at rear they will have stuck to outer face inside centre of disc. Run the adjuster back and you may need to hit centre of discs
14th Sep 2017 2:49 pm
Toloalex
Member Since: 28 Oct 2016
Location: Chisinau
Posts: 9
Hi there,
My EPB started making really ugly noises. Changed whatever the dealer told me to change and it started again after a while, so I asked for my money back and had the EPB unplugged from the battery .
Now I have a yellow EPB fault light on the dashboard and my cruise control does not work anymore.
How can I have the cruise control working again and maybe, just maybe cancel the fault , all without plugging the EPB back in?
Thnx 4 sharing experiences and or ideas .
12th Jul 2018 3:29 pm
frisky
Member Since: 15 Nov 2018
Location: kent
Posts: 1
Hi all happy Christmas
can some one tell me how to rewind a locked EPB modal got it on bench all opened its wound right up
any info please.
17th Dec 2018 8:41 am
charlietortoise
Member Since: 29 Oct 2011
Location: Staffordshire
Posts: 511
There is a post on here of how to do that very thing
Member Since: 28 Jan 2019
Location: highlands
Posts: 2
EPB stuck on
My EPB has stuck on, but it will no free itself if you pull the wire ring behind the switch. The wire does not have much resistance. Any other ideas of how we can free it or what might be the problem. It went very suddenly no warning, the display says EPB not functional. Its a 2008 SE v6
31st Jan 2019 5:21 pm
bones1
Member Since: 12 Oct 2012
Location: hemel hempstead
Posts: 72
HANDBRAKE SIEZED ON
ive released stuck handbrakes by reversing,carefully jerking it backwards,bit difficult at traffic lights though jeff=bones1.
27th Feb 2019 4:03 pm
paulmeryan
Member Since: 15 Aug 2011
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 742
Green Flag had to cut the cables from the EPB module to the brakes themselves when the emergency release failed on mine in January.
I need a new module. The system has been adjusted a couple times over the years since the squealing first began, but it's finally given up the ghost. At least I'll have a new EPB soon so I know that and the compressor shouldn't need replacing for a few years.VR6 > 330D Touring > D3 HSE > !?XC90?!
4th Mar 2019 3:29 pm
graymattor
Member Since: 26 Nov 2018
Location: Retford
Posts: 4
Hi All,
This is my first post, and possibly like a lot i have been brought to the forum due to the EPB fault(s)!! I am actually here to ask for assistance on behalf of my dad who owns the Landrover Discovery 3 (2005), he keeps having issues with the EPB (amongst others but I've managed to sort those), first off the EPB overextended and it got jammed so the emergency release was used, resetting that was a fun job!! but we did it and it worked absolutely fine for about 6 months now he is having another error as detailed below (with pictures)
The current problem which I cannot for the life of me sort out is! There is an amber handbrake warning light and a red one that keeps flashing on the instrument cluster, and there is also a beeping/buzzer. When trying to operate the handbrake on or off a warning comes on the dash stating the handbrake is inoperable.
We have checked the forum and followed any comments that have been made but we have come to a loss!! so what have we done
1) I stripped the switch down, all looks to be working OK, and it is bringing the warning up on the dash so we assume its ok, voltages were as follows
Starting from black (-)
Red - 0v
Yellow/green stripe - 5.5v
Yellow/blue stripe - 9.4v
Yellow - 5.5v
Red - 9.4v
So voltage there, even if they are a bit odd, probably due to the CANBUS, the engine was not running when voltages were taken
2) Next, we went to the plug under the N/S rear wheel arch, all looked clean, but there was no voltage at all on the same colour wires as above in 1?
Click image to enlarge
3) We then went to investigate under the N/S front wheel arch cover (what a that is to remove!!), apparently, there is a plug there! I couldn't find a plug with the same colour wires! (is there one there?)
Click image to enlarge
4) We then checked for voltage at the EPB plug but again there was no voltage for the same colour wires that were at the switch (but there wouldn't be with there not being any at the N/S rear wheel arch but I checked anyway!)
5) We read on here that there is a splice in the yellow/green wire somewhere, where it goes from 1 to two wires which have caused people issues, but we struggled to understand the description of where this wire was and we didn't fancy trying to strip all the copex of the wires to try and find it, can someone please post a photo of where this is exactly located?
If anyone can advise on anything else worth trying or looking for that would be great, I cannot find a proper wiring schematic to trace the wires from and two all EPB components to try and fathom where things come and go to!!
Thanks for any assistance
Chris
25th Mar 2019 4:48 pm
LR3norway
Member Since: 25 Dec 2016
Location: NORWAY
Posts: 196
Have you read any codes? Which wires do you need to trace?
There should be continuity between all 4 wires from the EPB connector to the switch. Not necessary to measure voltage on them when don't knowing what each wire does.
Red (Ignition) and Lightgreenwhite (key in), measure voltage at the EPB connector, or continuity between EPB connector and fuse 40+41.
Both Greenyellow wires should have a good 12v feed, try putting load at it if in doubt.
Both Black wires should bee grounded.
Canbus wires... Don't remember how much, but should be measured voltage on them. Somewhere between 2 and 7V maybe. Best way is to read codes. If there is trouble with the canbuswires you will have a "lost communication" code.
25th Mar 2019 5:41 pm
graymattor
Member Since: 26 Nov 2018
Location: Retford
Posts: 4
Hi LR3Norway.
Thank you for your reply, I knew I would forget something!!
1) both fuses are fine, no issues there, we've had to remove them due to the constant flashing and beeping, but obviously checked everything with them fitted
2) I checked fault codes and there was nothing, totally clean
3) I check continuity between the switch and NS rear plug and that was fine, I also checked between the switch and the EPB unit plug and that was fine, but not sure why I wasn't getting any voltage, I must admit I was only checking continuity and not resistance.
To be honest, I'm not sure if I need to trace any wires because I have continuity, but it has been mentioned the yellow/green joins into 1 wire and this joint corrodes, but this is what's throwing me i have continuity!! I'm not use to these CANBUS systems, im more in to old school wiring with relays, etc!
Thanks
25th Mar 2019 6:38 pm
LR3norway
Member Since: 25 Dec 2016
Location: NORWAY
Posts: 196
You should really have some codes. What faultreader do you use. I had some headscraching when my handbrake gave no codes, even though it didn't work.
After some fiddling I discovered that my IID Tool didn't find the EPB ECU, because I had been driving without the fuse. So had to "reinstall" the ECU, then the codes came out.
25th Mar 2019 7:08 pm
graymattor
Member Since: 26 Nov 2018
Location: Retford
Posts: 4
That's interesting!!
I only have a basic scanner, is it MaxiScan or something like that, it read the car OK, but picked up no codes.
how on earth do you re-install the ECU? my dad has been driving around with the fuses out so could be as you describe? it sounds like I need something more advanced, ill have a chat with a workmate, has a genuine cable, but i think its VIN specific unless you pay
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