Put the spanners down and hand it back to the trader to fix
14th Dec 2014 8:11 pm
Member Since: 14 Dec 2014
The trader is too far away for me to go. Was just wondering if there was any small things I could try before having to take day off to go see trader.
I'll give him a call in the morning anyways to see what he says.
I just cant be without the car.
Have just had another quick look inside the car and tried the pull the switch up twice to reset the brake but it does nothing.
It seems like I have lost power to the epb unit or something.
car makes some "dinging"noises when I pull the switch up or down. Warning sounds from dash that is.
Might have to get it plugged in or buy a fault code checker seeing as I plan to have this car for a good few years and it may become a well used diagnostic tool by the looks of it.
14th Dec 2014 9:37 pm
Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Genuine Lanrover EPB Surplus to requirements
I have a Genuine Complete EPB Unit available if you need one , Surplus to requirement?
23rd Dec 2014 9:58 am
Member Since: 11 Nov 2013
EPB Emergency Disable Discovery 3 4 and Range Rover
I recently had a problem with my Electronic Park Brake on my Discovery 3 which apparently is the same actuator and loom as the 4 and the various Range Rovers . Having snapped the manual release cable which apparently only works around 50% of the time I was stuck with the car in my garage requiring â€˜go jacksâ€™ to get it out and to the Stealer which was going to cost AUD500 and ruin my concrete/gravel driveway (go-jacks have steel wheels). I couldnâ€™t find an emergency process anywhere online between the manual release process and severing the cable which would require an angle grinder or some serious bolt cutters. I then begged the Stealer to tell me how to disconnect the cable without having to sever it and definitely incur the significant replacement cost (in Aussie the Stealer quoted AUD1,750 to replace). I thought it would be useful to share this in case others had recovery or tool or parts availability issues. Once the rear wheel is off it only takes about 4-5 minutes with just a flat bladed screwdriver and a shifter and virtually zero mechanical skill.
1. Remove a rear wheel
2. The park brake cable enters through the front of the rear wheel assembly (at about 2-3 oâ€™clock on the RHS or 9-10 oâ€™clock on the LHS) into the park brake hub assembly. The EPB cable is the thickest of all the brake and sensor cables.
3. Remove the plastic dust cover which requires a 19mm spanner or shifter to loosen from the park brake hub assembly. Once off the thread push back up the cable to expose the outer cable/hub junction
4. At the junction there is a C-Clip â€¦ you may have to rotate the C-Clip to reveal the â€˜spaceâ€™ in the C-Clip.
5. If you are on the road/on sand/grass put down a blanket or a shirt under the assembly to catch the C-Clip (it is made of â€˜springyâ€™ metal and could go anywhere).
6. Take a flat bladed screw driver (if you can find one to bridge the gap across the â€˜Câ€™ that is ideal) â€¦ give the screw driver a light tap with something to remove the C-Clip.
7. Once the C-Clip is off the outer cable has nothing to retain it and it will â€˜fallâ€™ into the hub assembly about 1cm. This will be enough to de-stress the entire park brake system (both sides). Check the wheel can rotate a couple of cm.
8. Replace the plastic dust cover and lightly tighten with 19mm spanner/shifter. Replace wheel.
9. You may wish to jack up the other side and check the wheel can rotate freely by a couple of cmâ€™s.
10. Drive away and donâ€™t park on steep hills.
I think it is possible to do this without removing the rear wheel but it would be tight. For those that donâ€™t know what a C-Clip is â€¦ it is a thin piece of metal in the shape of a C with 4 â€˜lugsâ€™ at 10, 2, 4 and 8 oâ€™clock with cutout/space between 2 and 4 oâ€™clock giving it the shape of a C. In this case it is about 2cmâ€™s in diameter. It is pushed/tapped into a recess/seat around a cable with a slightly larger diameter.
31st Dec 2014 7:32 am
Member Since: 09 Jul 2011
Welcome! Good first post and handy to know!
31st Dec 2014 7:36 am
Member Since: 02 Aug 2014
Quick question re EPB, not sure where best to put it, so here it is.
How possible is it to drive if the EPB is on?
Mine was making the squealing noise when applied, so I stopped puting it on (and keeping it off when taking the key out) for a week or so till it went back to the dealer.
I have now been told I have done extensive/expensive damage because I "must have" driven it with the EPB on. I'm positive it wasn't on as there was no drag and no other noises when driving.
I've also told them that I'm pretty sure it would be very difficult to move if the brake was on and the emergency release procedure in the owner manual would kind of back that up.
31st Dec 2014 6:06 pm
Member Since: 29 Jan 2015
Hi there new to the group got a few questions I've read over pretty much everything but can't see a answer to my dramas
I have a 54 plate D3 63k on the clock so is booked in for its service Monday 64k one
So the other day I updated the satnav software and now
the hand brake fault shows up
the gear slected does not show on the dash
The reverse light doesn't come on the PDC doesn't work
The the suspension will not lower
Any ideas and advice would be very helpful
29th Jan 2015 8:24 pm
Member Since: 29 Jan 2015
Any idea peeps or just best to take it in
29th Jan 2015 10:53 pm
Member Since: 17 Jan 2015
hi all i am new to the forum and recently got a disco 3 and the epb problem.reading disco mike posts on relatching is there someone in south yorkshire who can sort mine please, all the indys i have rang seem clueless and say you need a new epb module thanks. :
30th Jan 2015 4:36 pm
Member Since: 12 May 2014
'07 automatic HSE diesel
Couple of weeks ago my EPB started acting up. First I was picking the kids up from school and the EPB wouldn't release. I cursed. Turned of the engine. Removed the key. Started the engine. Cursed. Did this a couple of times. Then I tried turning the engine off while pressing down the EPB switch and brake pedal. This did the trick and I could drive home.
After a couple of days the amber light would come on once in a while, accompanied with flashing red park brake light and the warning "Park Brake Fault". Then it would disappear. And come on again.
Let SWMBO drive it to her office as her commute i longer than mine, thinking the battery needed a longer drive to charge. After that the amber light is on constantly...
I had a hunch this is an electrical issue. Yesterday I started the engine to drive home from the office. Now the fuel light flashed and said range was "0 km"...
10th Mar 2015 7:31 am
Member Since: 05 Mar 2015
Location: Under my bonnet
My D3 developed a terrible squeal/squeak 2 days after i purchased it, I did toy with the idea of returning to the dealer but as it was 230 miles away and I was suffering from a nasty dose of 'Manthrax' I decided to 'read up' instead.
This thread has been invaluable and once the car was up in the air and the rear wheel and disk were off the source of my rather annoying squeal was immediately obvious - one of the 'c clips' wasn't fitted correctly and was in constant contact with the wheel hub.
I spent a few minutes cleaning stuff up and liberally applying copper slip, then I fitted the c clip correctly and refitted the disk and wheel.
I chose to repeat the operation on the other side despite there not being any noticeable noises.
My D3 developed the dreaded 'park brake failure' and screech while reversing down my steep drive to hitch up a caravan. Not a good time!
Fortunately, a couple of forum posts pointed me at Bodsy's brake bible and after little more than taking the rear wheels off I had the problem brake shoes adjusted and the screech and error banished.
What worried me though was how many clicks I had to do to get them tight (before backing off again). This indicated to me that:
1. the stealer had probably not even looked at them
2. the shoes must have had a fair amount of wear since they were installed/last adjusted
It's disappointing that the dealer hadn't even mentioned this adjustment was needed to prevent failure of a vital and expensive component like the EPB actuator. Perhaps they consider routine (and expensive) replacement way before the shoes/hubs wear out as sufficient?
Anyway, rant aside, as I don't have the required torx socket, I've not had the hub/disk off to look at the state of the shoes. How much mileage can they do typically before needing replacement? My D3 has done about 47k.
3rd Jul 2015 10:10 am
Member Since: 05 Jun 2015
Possible brake screech.
I am not sure if my issue fits into this section and am wondering if anyone else has had this problem. 06 auto TDV6 S, the hand brake appears to be working ok however there is a sort of a screech occasionally when driving, appears to be after maybe 20 minutes of driving, comes and goes, sometimes present under braking, sometimes not, and occasionally turning tight corners. Does appear worse at low speeds.
Have had all pads and front discs changed, and noise has still returned, could this be the EPB? I have stopped turning it on when I park, I assume park will hold it... Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I believe that under normal circumstances the EPB shouldn't do anything when driving faster than 3 mph, so I would think that would rule it out. Others with more specific knowledge may be able to confirm or deny that.
The screech from the EPB actuator comes from underneath the middle of the disco. I don't suppose you can tell where the sound originates?
I wonder if it's related to the Dynamic Stability Control (DSC)? This traction control would normally cause the ABS to produce a mildly alarming grinding noise from the wheel in question when it kicks in. Perhaps it's possible for it to sound more like a screech?
21st Dec 2015 6:58 pm
Member Since: 05 Jun 2015
Its coming from the rear wheels, had someone run along beside me. Could the handbrake shoes be extended and on driving and heating expand and so rub perhaps?
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