Right now I am fixing a Discovery 4 with the 6 Cylinder engine for a friend.
The car was always getting in limp mode and when he gave me the car I saw a crack in the driver manifold (LHD).
So I replaced the manifold and drove the car for 100 Kilometer and it was running great.
But I also had the fault P242D from the beginning, and could get it out. I checked the Exhaust Gas temperature sensor but they seem to be replaced recently.
Now he came back, because he has the restricted performance light back on again.
So I checked the fault codes and there was a second exhaust gas temperature sensor now: P2034.
What can cause these both sensors to make problems together?
And which sensor is P2034 Bank 2 Sensor 2 ?
And which sensor is P242D Bank 1 Sensor 3 ?
Maybe someone here had the same problem and is able to help 👍🏻
Thank you
Julian
23rd Aug 2024 4:51 am
JulRei93
Member Since: 17 Aug 2024
Location: NRW
Posts: 11
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
23rd Aug 2024 4:51 am
JulRei93
Member Since: 17 Aug 2024
Location: NRW
Posts: 11
Hello,
I might have found a major problem already.
There was a lot of water in the floor. I sucked it all out with a vacuum and after some days with a dryer in the car and always open windows in the sun the car is absolutely dry now.
Of course I unclogged the drains from the sunroof.
So now the car is driving perfectly fine. But one code is still there and would not go away.
P242D Exhaust Gas temperature sensor bank 1 sensor 3
Whick one underneath the car is it?
It's a left hand side vehicle so the steering wheel is on the left side.
I hope someone can help me.
Thanks a lot
Julian
20th Sep 2024 10:57 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5024
I know that bank 1 is on the side where cylinder nr.1 is.
So if I sit in the car it's the right side, and if I stand in front of the engine it's the left side.
Is this correct?
Thank you
20th Sep 2024 6:31 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 5024
It depends on the definitions your diagnostic tool uses to describe the engine layout.
For example the layout can be described as either (Bank 0 & Bank 1) (Bank 1 & Bank 2) (Bank A & Bank B) etc. The thing to remember is that all these definitions are applied from the drivers seat, and always starting with the right side of the vehicle as seen from that position.
So it's the same for LHD or RHD! yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
21st Sep 2024 1:42 pm
JulRei93
Member Since: 17 Aug 2024
Location: NRW
Posts: 11
Thats great to know. Thank you a lot.
I am using the Nanocom diagnostic tool. It showed Bank 1 and 2.
So it's bank one on the right side while I sit in the car and bank 2 on the left side.
Tomorrow I will take a look on all the wiring and the sensors.
Thank you very much everybody
Greeting from Germany
Julian
21st Sep 2024 7:27 pm
JulRei93
Member Since: 17 Aug 2024
Location: NRW
Posts: 11
Click image to enlarge
I just found this picture.
On my car it says Bank 1 sensor 3 so it has to be on the right side the third sensor.
But the pipe has only one sensor and runs into the pipe of Bank 2 or do I have to see the rest of the pipe as "Bank1" ?
In this case I would check the sensor after the DPF. Ist this right?
And the second fault was bank 2 sensor 2 the HO2S sensor?
Is that correct?
Thank you for your support
21st Sep 2024 7:45 pm
JulRei93
Member Since: 17 Aug 2024
Location: NRW
Posts: 11
Click image to enlarge
Diesel Particulate Filter Temperature Sensors
Four temperature sensors are used in the DPF system. Two temperature sensors are located in the inlet pipes from each
cylinder bank, just before the flexible couplings. A third is located in the inlet pipe to the DPF and the fourth sensor is
located in the DPF outlet pipe to the center silencer.
The sensors measure the temperature of exhaust gas leaving the turbochargers, the temperature of the exhaust gas
before it passes through the DPF and the temperature of the exhaust gas exiting the DPF. The 4 sensors provide the
information needed to calculate the DPF temperature.
The information is used, in conjunction with other data, to estimate the amount of accumulated particulates and to control
the DPF temperature.
I just found this. So if there are only four sensors it has to be the sensor before and the sensor after the DPF.
I will keep you updated
22nd Sep 2024 5:58 am
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18557
I only get 3,3 volts on the sensor side. This should be 5 Volts, right?
Hope you guys know, what I mean. I unplugged the cables on the white plug near the ECU and measured there.
Maybe it's something very easy like a fuse?
The ECM gives only 3,3 volts for the sensor
Hope you guys have an idea
22nd Sep 2024 5:14 pm
JulRei93
Member Since: 17 Aug 2024
Location: NRW
Posts: 11
Click image to enlarge
Here you can see the wiring Diagram,
I have 3,3 volts on both sensor sides.
So I know that's definitely not the wiring loom down to the sensors.
And it's 3,3 Volts o both sensor cables.
Or do I have a faulty ECU.... I hope not
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
But what if the ECU generates the 3,3 Volts on purpose, so it has a temperature to calculate all the values it needs. Like in a limp mode, it doesn't actually reads the sensors but takes a value in the middle of the range so it has something to work with?
Maybe someone of you knows more about my problem
Thanks a lot
Julian
23rd Sep 2024 4:31 am
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18557
3.3V across the wiring to the sensor, with it disconnected, would seem OK.
3.3V is the reference voltage from inside the ECU. No sensor is connected, so you are seeing the full 3.3V.
The sensor is just a variable resistor, with the resistance changing according to temperature.
With the sensor connected, it sets up a potential divider as there is another fixed value resistor inside the ECU.
Without explaining all the details of how the potential divider works, the resistance change of the sensor alters the measured voltage on the sensor wire, and the ECU measures this voltage to determine the temperature at the sensor.
You need to either probe the voltage with the sensor connected, or measure the resistance of the sensor.
What you do have is two sensors which you can compare readings from - the inlet and outlet sensors.
By the way from your photo you were probing the voltage of the "upstream" (DPF inlet) sensor, the code you have posted would suggest the "downstream" DPF outlet sensor as in the links I posted previously.06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know!
23rd Sep 2024 8:05 am
JulRei93
Member Since: 17 Aug 2024
Location: NRW
Posts: 11
Hello,
I checked the sensors again.
I put everything back together, started the car and went under it to measure the voltage on the sensor. It stayed at 3,3 Volts even ablfter some minutes. It never changed.
And I measured the Ohms. The sensor in the front has a reading of 0,8 MOhms after a few minutes, which is dropping with the time. So it gets hotter and the number is getting lower.
The rear one has 1,2 MOhms. And it's also dropping while it's getting hotter.
So what should I do? I think the sensors are ok. Because they are lowering their resistance as they get hotter.
Or does the voltage has to drop? Or am I doing something wrong? I am trying to get the sensors here in Germany, but it looks like this is not so easy.
Hope someone can help me.
Thanks
26th Sep 2024 10:09 am
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18557
The sensor's operating windows is at very high exhaust temperatures, so it is likely that you won't see any significant voltage change until the sensor is very hot (300 deg C +).
But what you have measured and experienced so far seems ok 06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
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