jenseneverest
Member Since: 12 Jun 2017
Location: somewhere
Posts: 769
  
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mine is a couple of years old, think i may have stuffed it by leaving my Aux battery connected to the split charge VSR. Then the main battery is not getting a proper full charge as the aux kicks in shortly after starting. Probably made worse by frequent short trips. Im still not happy with the terminals, and have never been TBH.
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 19th Dec 2022 10:52 am |
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Frisian Driver
Member Since: 23 Aug 2021
Location: Baden-Würtemberg
Posts: 80
 
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M3DPO wrote:Side stick: It would be easier just to buy a new battery and keep it fully charged 
Basically:
My experience tells me that when it comes to car batteries, we think in terms of strong currents. But to regulate and control this high current, we have to think in terms of milliamperes and millivolts. The battery itself is not always the problem.
Jm2c.
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| 19th Dec 2022 12:12 pm |
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Sidestick
Member Since: 22 Apr 2012
Location: Rome
Posts: 2315
 
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I have no way to keep my battery under charge when parked for few days and anti thief and gps locator are not the best to maintain the cranking battery (single) in top conditions.
My alternative is to install an AGM battery which is able to store an higher voltage than a wet cell and living in Rome (Italy) i'm pretty sure that my alternator will never charge over 14,5 volt due to average temperature. Maybe this type of battery do not drop below 10,5 v during a cold start  - Easy-Lift suspension module 4.0
- GoodWinch 9500 lb
- Full underbody protections
- Tree/Rock sidebars
- Prospeed roofrack & ladder
- Compressor guard
- Raised Air Intake
- Driving lights (2+4)
- 50 mm Waffle boards
- Altox Heater control
- Overland Rooftop Tent
- Rear seats entertainment
- Front & Rear camera
- GVIF
- Removable tow bar
- Cubby box fridge
- BFG KO2 265/65R17
- iidTool BT
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| 19th Dec 2022 5:03 pm |
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Frisian Driver
Member Since: 23 Aug 2021
Location: Baden-Würtemberg
Posts: 80
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When we're on an island for a week and our D3 stays on land, a solar panel provides quiescent power and keeps the battery loaded. The panel is attached to a window facing the sun from the inside. The power connection is via the OBDII connector (but check it before  ).
https://www.solara.eu/home/
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| 19th Dec 2022 5:44 pm |
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Sidestick
Member Since: 22 Apr 2012
Location: Rome
Posts: 2315
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unfortunately my car rests underground and well away from any electric socket 
so, no solar far me... - Easy-Lift suspension module 4.0
- GoodWinch 9500 lb
- Full underbody protections
- Tree/Rock sidebars
- Prospeed roofrack & ladder
- Compressor guard
- Raised Air Intake
- Driving lights (2+4)
- 50 mm Waffle boards
- Altox Heater control
- Overland Rooftop Tent
- Rear seats entertainment
- Front & Rear camera
- GVIF
- Removable tow bar
- Cubby box fridge
- BFG KO2 265/65R17
- iidTool BT
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| 19th Dec 2022 10:26 pm |
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John Andre Ognheim
Member Since: 29 Oct 2013
Location: Bergen
Posts: 111
 
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| Re: Voltage drop at crank |
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Sidestick wrote:Hi guys,
as many of You already know, our cars are hungry of Ampere during crank and a "tired" battery result in the well known "bing... Special programs fault, HDC etc."
This is caused by voltage drop below 10,5 volt over the can bus looped ECUs.
Surfing on the web, many users (from other brands) try to fix this issue adding in parallel to these ECUs a capacitor and a diode (i suppose to avoid reversing current drop) which should be able to maintain the voltage above 10,5 volt during the crank phase.
So my question is: Is there anyone who has experienced this process already?
I have seen many SPL passionates adding big capacitors (1 or more Farad) close to the battery right to avoid voltage drop to the amplifiers, so i was thinking to try something similar between the battery and the CJB
Any suggestion is welcome!
Have been thinking the same.
Not sure u need big as 1 Farad though.
10 000uf should do the job, it's only a few seconds it needs to keep the voltage.
But it's a huge job to install caps on 20 ECU's...
But all the faults during crank dissappear when engine runs, so I wouldn't care so much.
Better keep the battery charged at all time...
Ign on draws aprox 20 amps.
Add aprox 6 X 12 amps when glow plugs are active, then aprox 40-60 amp when starter operates... Maybe more.
Especially here in winter Norway it's like 90 amps draw, a few seconds with ignition on.. Pluss starter...
Keep the battery healthy...
Still not a good answer to your question though D3, MY06
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| 20th Dec 2022 8:15 pm |
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Sidestick
Member Since: 22 Apr 2012
Location: Rome
Posts: 2315
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Here in Italy, Phonocar makes this thing to avoid car stereos shutting down during crank:
https://www.beps.it/it/installazione-stabi...13371.html
From this my idea to use something similar between the battery and the JCB of the car where most of the ECUs are fed...
what is inside the Phonocar box is a very simple circuit made by a capacitor and a diode, it is able to run 12v at 5 amps for about 5 secs, receiving just 8 volt from the main battery.
I also know that capacitors are dangerous due to the high current they can store, so i would like to be really careful before cook my beloved Disco  - Easy-Lift suspension module 4.0
- GoodWinch 9500 lb
- Full underbody protections
- Tree/Rock sidebars
- Prospeed roofrack & ladder
- Compressor guard
- Raised Air Intake
- Driving lights (2+4)
- 50 mm Waffle boards
- Altox Heater control
- Overland Rooftop Tent
- Rear seats entertainment
- Front & Rear camera
- GVIF
- Removable tow bar
- Cubby box fridge
- BFG KO2 265/65R17
- iidTool BT
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| 20th Dec 2022 8:59 pm |
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