Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
TDV6 timing belt - How To...
No need to be scared by the high cost of timing belt replacement anymore! Or even just to see where your money goes when it gets done at a garage. With Disco 3's becoming older and higher mileage etc, more and more will need replacing soon. Some due to mileage, some due to age. It is quite an involved job however, and neither myself nor Disco3 accept any responsibility if you decide to tackle this job, and end up with a dead Disco...
The reccomended interval is 105k or 7yrs for both timing belts, and the aux drive belt is on the service schedule at 105k also...
If you need any more advice or help etc, drop me a PM
Rear belt first. Start by removing the engine cover, battery cover, battery, and the upper parts of the battery box
Click image to enlarge
Behind the battery, you will find a pair of ECU's. Remove all the connectors from the rear ECU, and the left hand (grey one) connector from the front ECU. Also, split the white connector that was attached to the battery box
Click image to enlarge
Bit tricky this, you need to remove the bottom and middle wiring looms from the body so you can get your hands down the back of the engine. To do this, queeze the small plastic clips (circled) inwards together and pull away from the body. It is a quite tricky but you can get away with doing one side at a time and keep gentle pressure on it to stop it from clipping back into place. Disconnect glow plug wiring and secure out of the way
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Move wiring across to other side of the engine bay. The coolant pipe that runs across the top of the engine needs to be moved also. Clamp the pipe on the n/s of the car, unbolt the pipe (2x 10mm bolts fitted from the rear of the engine) and secure it out of the way. You will spill a liitle coolant, but dont worry about it...
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
TBC...
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Last edited by Disco_Mikey on 31st Jul 2010 4:19 pm. Edited 3 times in total
31st Jul 2010 6:35 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
Remove the belt cover and manouvere out of the hole. For obvious reasons, no pictures of it fitted in place, but here is one off the car. There are 2 clips at the top which require pushed downwards to release the cover. It is slotted into place at the bottom of the cover into 3 holes... Not the greatest of pictures, but hopefully you get the idea
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Now you are working blind. The rear belt is NOT timed to the engine, so no marks to line up etc. The small pulley in the middle is the tensioner. Remove 10mm bolt fully and remove old belt and tensioner. Easier said than done... Make a note of which way the belt is rotating for refitting new belt.
This picture is for reference only from a Disco with the body removed, to give you an idea of what you are dealing with...
Click image to enlarge
The new tensioner is a one shot self tensioner with a small locating peg on the rear of it. You should almost be able to make it out in the picture. GTR specifically states that the belt and tensioner should be fitted together, and the belt is not put on once the tensioner is in place...
Fit belt and tensioner together, torque bolt ( ) to 25Nm. Make sure that the belt is correctly fitted to all 3 pulleys and pull the pin out to tension the belt once you are happy. No further action is needed with tensioner. Refit all removed parts except battery
Now move onto the front belt...
Remove the big pipe from the airbox to the intake pipe that runs along the front of the engine bay. Remove upper part of fan cowling but pulling upwards and easing side to side. Can sometimes be a bit stubborn mind. The coolant pipe needs to be unclippedfrom cowling, but doesnt require removal. Unplug electrical connector from fan and remove fan. NOTE: Fan is a LEFT HAND THREAD
Before removing aux drivebelt, slacken off, but dont remove the 6 bolts holding on the crank pulley, the water pump pulley, and the pulley directly above the crank pulley.
Click image to enlarge
Remove drivebelt, remove 3 pulleys that were loose from last step. Remove the upper idler pulley bolted through the cover. Remove electrical connector from the front part of throttle housing if neccesary and remove housing( I removed it for the pictures) and also the coolant hoses and electrical connector from the front of the oil cooler. A lot of coolant will be lost here. I tried to catch most of it from the engine bay, but failed. You could drain the whole cooling system if you wanted too, but IMHO, its a bit unneccesary. Secure coolant pipes out of the way
Click image to enlarge
Remove timing belt cover. There are 16 bolts (IIRC) holding the cover on. This picture shows the location of the Camshaft timing holes. To fit the crankshaft locking tool, you have to remove the starter which is a mission itself to do. Alternatively, use a a blob of paint to mark the location of the crankshaft against the block once the cams were locked, its not going to move. Before removing the tensioner, slacken off the 3x 13mm bolts on each cam pulley, as it makes it much easier to get the belt back on. There are 2 idler pulleys, on of which was removed to get the belt off. I would advise changine these as part of the belt, as it is extra piece of mind for only an extra £30
Click image to enlarge
New belt and pulleys fitted. This belt has a manual tensioner, and the pointer should be aligned with the upper part of the cutout on the outer part of the tensioner if a new belt has been fitted. The cam pulley bolts can be tightened once the tensioner has been set. Once tensioner has been set and tightened, rotate engine a minimum of 2 times (at the crankshaft) to make sure the engine turns over freely (ignoring compression) and make sure the pins and marks etc all line up again
Click image to enlarge
Everything behind the cover (cam pulley, idler and tensioner) all get torqued to approx 25Nm. Pretty sure that all the aux belt pulleys (water pump, crank and idler) were the same figure. Cant remember the exact figure but its around that tightness. Someone will be allong soon and confirm the correct figures.
Hopefully these will encourage people to have a go themselves now. Its not a difficult belt to do, just a bit awkward, especially the rear belt. Hardest part was getting the fan off, as I didnt have the correct fan spanners. However, if you do get it wrong, it is an expensive engine to repair...
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Last edited by Disco_Mikey on 18th Sep 2011 6:25 am. Edited 1 time in total
31st Jul 2010 7:14 am
Ent
Member Since: 12 Oct 2007
Location: In the cack
Posts: 6488
good post Mike How long do you estimate it for an amatuer to complete?Club Exped trailer
Club Timed Climate
Club Flappy paddle steering wheel
Club 300bhp
Club Prospeed test pilot/lab rat
Club National Luna Stella conditioner
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
Good write up and well timed for my belt change which is due in 1500 miles . It appears that you only used 2 timing locking tools, which look like straight pieces of rod. Can you confirm this and what diameter / length is needed. Will save me buying / renting a set if they can be made up easily.
Iain
31st Jul 2010 6:50 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73079
That looks scary !
31st Jul 2010 7:09 pm
The Transformer
Member Since: 22 Jan 2010
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 1791
My thoughts too DSL
31st Jul 2010 7:30 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73079
Would rather keep my local stealer in beer tokens!! Besides, if they screw it up I can at least sue them, if I screw it up SWMBO will shout at me, LOUDLY!!
Must say though that if I was wearing a hat I'd take it off to you techie types that know what you are doing.
31st Jul 2010 7:34 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20841
Iain G wrote:
Good write up and well timed for my belt change which is due in 1500 miles . It appears that you only used 2 timing locking tools, which look like straight pieces of rod. Can you confirm this and what diameter / length is needed. Will save me buying / renting a set if they can be made up easily.
Iain
Will measure them on Monday
DSL: If she starts shouting, give her a slap. Keep her in check My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 15 Nov 2009
Location: cambs
Posts: 87
Done a few belts and can do in under 3 hours with a coffee break. A bit fiddly but can do rear belt without removing wiring and water pipe. Does tend to hurt arms though.
Good write up though should save a few people some cash. Anyone in cambs area can borrow my timing pin set foc.
can do rear belt without removing wiring and water pipe. Does tend to hurt arms though.
That's how I knew my local indy had done my rear belt - he had the red marks to prove it!
Excellent post Mikey Previously:
2005 D3 2.7 TDV6 S
1984 90 2.25 Petrol CSW
1992 90 200TDi Hard Top
1995 Discovery ES 300TDi
2003 90 TD5 Truck Cab
1st Aug 2010 10:33 am
disco_steve
Member Since: 25 Aug 2009
Location: Are you sure this is the M5 ?
Posts: 1498
GREAT post Mikey
Been toying with doing this for a while (mine is due in approx 5k miles) and reading your post and the great pics has given me the confidence to DIY
The service sheet for doing a 105k service which includes all belts is 4.8 hrs, my local stealer charges £95/hr, so that's £456 + parts + VAT and he says that will all come to £900 (nice if you can get it)
Hence the reason for doing most things myself
(I have done gearboxes and a clutch on a D2 so fairly ok DIY grease monkey)
Anyone local(ish) to Gloucestershire who's got a timing pin set, and viscous fan spanners they would be prepared to lend for a weekend Never get mad - get even !!
06 D3 now gone to family member and still going strong at 265k
previous vehicles:
04 D2 TD5 - (clocked 189k from new)
52 X-Trail 2.2 SVE
various euro boxes !
1st Aug 2010 11:12 am
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1146
Good write up, although it is important to go to the extra hassle of removing the starter & locking the crankshaft with the locking pin, as there is no way to acurately set the cam timing otherwise, a paint mark on the front pulley can be miles out, due to the diameter of where you are marking, compared to the flywheel. Both cam sprockets have to be loosened while the crank is fixed.
If this is not done, you may be lucky, but fuel economy & optimum running will be upset, because the valves will open too soon, or too late.
Regards
Steve
2nd Aug 2010 9:42 am
Iain G
Member Since: 31 Jan 2009
Location: Filey
Posts: 430
SteveNorman wrote:
Good write up, although it is important to go to the extra hassle of removing the starter & locking the crankshaft with the locking pin, as there is no way to acurately set the cam timing otherwise, a paint mark on the front pulley can be miles out, due to the diameter of where you are marking, compared to the flywheel. Both cam sprockets have to be loosened while the crank is fixed.
If this is not done, you may be lucky, but fuel economy & optimum running will be upset, because the valves will open too soon, or too late.
Regards
Steve
Good point, but you can only ever be as accurate as the pitch of the teeth, as such, perhaps counting the number of ribs (or whatever the technical term is) on the belt before and after will guarantee it's back together correctly. Looking at disco mikey's paint marks it would appear quite obvious if it were out one notch. It's a bit like everything in life, if your not competent enough to do the job and understand the implications of timing - don't do the job (not aimed at you steve ).
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) to 25Nm. Make sure that the belt is correctly fitted to all 3 pulleys and pull the pin out to tension the belt once you are happy. No further action is needed with tensioner. Refit all removed parts except battery
good post Mike 
