Member Since: 29 Jan 2022
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 8
Suspension fault
So I’ve had the yellow warning light come on for the suspension after a few minutes running..
I’ve researched it and I ordered the kit to rebuild the valve blocks.. I’ve rebuilt the front valve block as I thought it might be that but has made no difference.
Yesterday I went to plug my snap on diagnostic machine in and I’m guessing I didn’t have enough
Voltage in my battery and then threw up HDC, parking brake and turned my amber warning light to red and wouldn’t let my machine in to read the ECU, so I left it running for a while as I did leave the ignition on as I was messing around checking stuff.
Woke up this morning and decided to put the suspension in off road mode and pull the fuse out to see what happens and after few hours not even 24 hours lol the front left shock as dropped drastically!
So I’m guessing it’s just decided to fail all of the sudden and this is causing my amber warning light on the dash?
Is
it possible to see if there’s any leaks with the soapy water trick on the front bags or is it worth me just to replace the front left shock which hopefully clears my suspension faults ?
29th Jan 2022 5:17 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4939
That's not causing your suspension fault unless it's deflating very quickly.
What are the codes you found?
Ps. Fill out your vehicle profile so we know what year and model of D3 you have. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
29th Jan 2022 6:12 pm
Boostedmonkey82
Member Since: 29 Jan 2022
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 8
Hi thanks for replying…
It’s a 2008 disco 3 2.7 TDV6
The only fault code I’ve got is this one from the other day..
It’s taken about 3 hours to go that low from off road mode with fuse pulled out.
29th Jan 2022 6:23 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4939
What module/s are you scanning? Can't tell from your pic but you need to scan all of them!
There's not enough to go on with those codes/diagnostic tool. Alternatively get hold of a dedicated LR diagnostic tool such as GAP. You are looking for a code beginning with P or C yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
29th Jan 2022 6:55 pm
Boostedmonkey82
Member Since: 29 Jan 2022
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 8
I’ll check tomorrow I’ve got the battery on charge so I can start a fresh tomorrow to check diagnostics, and will update.
Thanks for you input buddy
29th Jan 2022 8:01 pm
Yankee_Rover
Member Since: 02 Jun 2021
Location: Seattle
Posts: 183
It sounds like you’ve already rebuilt and replaced your front valve block? If so, you have more than likely introduced a leak at the valve block location. Do the soapy water thing to the block and connectors, very likely one of the Voss connectors has worn. I had this precise issue after refitting my rebuilt valve block for the 2nd time. The Voss connectors can be reused, but they do wear out, especially when coming on and off, and that can make a corner fall.
Please note, this only addresses the issue with your air shock lowering, not your dash warning lights.2008 LR3 HSE, 4.4L V8
29th Jan 2022 11:23 pm
Boostedmonkey82
Member Since: 29 Jan 2022
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 8
Been out to check the live date and the machine I have is a snap-on solus pro. Went into suspension module and it can up with one fault C1A20 pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir.
Also noticed a lot of difference between the percentages on each shock in the different settings after running through the special function tests.
I’ll upload the videos on YouTube and post the links at some point today.
Also couldn’t see any leaks with the soapy water trick.
PROFSR G wrote:
What module/s are you scanning? Can't tell from your pic but you need to scan all of them!
There's not enough to go on with those codes/diagnostic tool. Alternatively get hold of a dedicated LR diagnostic tool such as GAP. You are looking for a code beginning with P or C
30th Jan 2022 1:17 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4939
Your problem is at the compressor, either replace or rebuild it. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
30th Jan 2022 2:43 pm
Boostedmonkey82
Member Since: 29 Jan 2022
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 8
I’ve uploaded the videos but quality isn’t the same as my phone after uploading. There’s also a video of the left shock and I can see bubbles after letting the car rest for a few hours before restating and hear the leak which doesn’t sound small, as it’s deflating within a couple of hours. Pump seem to continuously run until it turns the Amber warning suspension light on the dash and cuts out.
What module/s are you scanning? Can't tell from your pic but you need to scan all of them!
There's not enough to go on with those codes/diagnostic tool. Alternatively get hold of a dedicated LR diagnostic tool such as GAP. You are looking for a code beginning with P or C
30th Jan 2022 4:01 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4939
If you can hear a leak you'll have to track it down and repair or replace that component.
From your video, and whilst the leak might be significant it does not seem to be greater than the rate at which the compressor can replenish the lost air. That's leads me to think either you have an additional leak, or more likely the drier assy in the compressor is failing (clogged) and needs attention also.
If you raise the suspension to full height you can then spray the front airbags with soapy water to confirm any leak. If prolonged overrunning of the compressor is allowed due to a leak or clogged drier, it will seriously diminish it's design capability and eventually will burn itself out.
As it's an AMK you can only realistically rebuild the drier, exh valve, and the large piston crown seal. The remaining smaller piston does not easily lend itself to repair, and is best left alone or risk total destruction of the compressor trying.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
30th Jan 2022 4:36 pm
Boostedmonkey82
Member Since: 29 Jan 2022
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 8
Do you think it’s worth me trying to rebuild it or just replace ? As for leaks I’ve checked everything and the only leak I can find is from the front left shock as the other 3 don’t drop when in use or when it’s parked up.
Really appreciate the help though buddy.
30th Jan 2022 5:27 pm
Boostedmonkey82
Member Since: 29 Jan 2022
Location: Nottingham
Posts: 8
These are the pictures are after running the checks and deflating the system and running the suspension cycle. But obviously soon as I turn off the front left sinks.
Jump pack was only used to aid battery voltage whilst running diagnostics.
30th Jan 2022 5:35 pm
Yankee_Rover
Member Since: 02 Jun 2021
Location: Seattle
Posts: 183
I would confirm there is no leak between the valve block and strut before replacing the strut. There is a Voss fitting at the valve block and another at the top of the strut, both of which could leak. If those are fine, then spray down the strut (bottom side) and see if you can find bubbles. Given the rate of your leak, you should be able to find it pretty easily using the soapy water test.2008 LR3 HSE, 4.4L V8
30th Jan 2022 6:05 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4939
Have you actually located the leak point on the air bag? If not it could be anywhere from there back to the valve block. If it is definitely at the air bag you will need to replace that strut, and that usually means you will need to replace the drivers side strut too as they will be out of balance (new & old on same axle)
Air bag's for the struts are available, but given the strut's age it's just not worth considering.
As for the compressor the rebuild is easy, just remove the unit and then the drier.
It's then just a clean up, replacement of the desiccant and filters. The exh valve is available too in another kit if you decide you want to change it.
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