Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
forest66 wrote:
haha it was pretty long wasnt it,
@ prof ok thanks, noted again ill look closer at the earth strap etc , thanks for the pointers, im a little rusty and really appreciate the directions i did look at a few of the live values but i didnt really know what to look for ,
im a retired old school landy tech give me a lt77 gearbox, or a tdi i can rebuild it, but electronics is not sth i know well but im learning being a d3 owner,
and this fix will give me the knowledge i need when my own needs doing
the broken pipe ive not looked where it goes yet hopefully not far, if u know which it is please say i need to order one i ran out of light today ,
the top bolt on the compressor is a is there a way to get to it , under rear arch shield off ? the top half of the plastic cover box seems to fowl access, does the top half wiggle out the way ?
Sorry couldn’t resist
Plus 1 what @prog g has mentioned , plus if it helps there’s also an earth point behind ur front drivers side wheel arch liner , I’ll see if I can find a picture for u
Plse don’t think I’m trying to teach u how to suck eggs but an easy way to test for a good ground is set ur multimeter onto DC volts, ignition on, one lead onto the negative battery post and the other test probe on ur ground point , measure what the voltage is plse , should be less than around 0.2 DC volts
21st Dec 2021 8:14 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
Found the picture for u ref ground behind the front drivers side wheel arch liner
Click image to enlarge
Last edited by gstuart on 21st Dec 2021 8:28 pm. Edited 1 time in total
21st Dec 2021 8:18 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
PROFSR G wrote:
gstuart wrote:
PROFSR G wrote:
Going by the dates are you sure you're not driving a DeLorean with some very odd looking appendages?
Clear the lot of them and see what comes back after a drive. Make sure your battery is up to the task though as much of what your GAP tool is reporting suggests a poor battery. Do another diagnostic check afterwards and see what codes come back.
Thought at first that was a shopping list
Did you see the dates attached to his fault codes? back to the future stuff if ever I saw it.
I did mate , also thought that was weird , wonder if as u also mentioned regarding the earth points if that could have has something to do with it ??, but indeed weird that’s for sure
Edit , just found out “ Date and odometer from faults are given by ECUs”
21st Dec 2021 8:22 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4876
forest66 wrote:
ok cool , is a 04 d3 not a 07 (mine is 07) , so its likely the original and
this is a Hitachi ? so u think it would be better to fit a new one?, yes as you say it must of got hot at one time,
looking a the old faults, am i right in: it wasnt making enough air at one time
C1A27-12 (AF) Compressor circuit - General electrical failure - circuit short to battery
( on 15-10-2024 14:08:31 at 187052 km )
C1131-92 (2E) Air supply - Component failure - performance or incorrect operation
( on 04-02-2025 09:20:46 at 188556 km )
-64 (2E) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir - Algorithm based failure - signal plausibility failure
( on 27-04-2023 12:51:08 at 180642 km )
where would you start on this ?
Yes it's a Hitachi and judging from a distance I'd say it's burnt out due to overrunning as a result of the leak. (short in the motor?) You could spend £50 on it and then bench test it if you're feeling lucky!
Try running it on the bench as is with a 12v battery and see what it does.
Personally I'd replace it with an AMK as I consider it to be the better compressor so long as it's serviced every few years. You'd need the modified pipework (cheap) to make it fit along with the bracket and covers which can be purchased together as a kit. The firmware update for it is already in your GAP IID.
Member Since: 04 Jan 2021
Location: Lymington
Posts: 84
agreed its likely u/s from that scenario
the lady has gone for a new o Hitachi unit, over the amk unit, i told her about it being a upgrade, and it needed a update, she said she has been happy with the oem unit when it worked and it was easier on my time which im giving for free (friends) so ordered from island 4x4 they had all the bits i needed thanks for the link.
so ill have a good starting place to be if there is any more issues that show up that caused this in the first place
and it will give me a unit to familiarize myself and/or recon it for my own 07 if the same,
thank you so much for your time, know-how and prompt answers, which are a invaluable time saver and absolute god send when your trying to figure stuff out and reading a ton of threads all diff to your individual needs it can make your mind spin at times ,
prof your a star
21st Dec 2021 11:51 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4876
You're welcome, but you're not out of the woods just yet.
There remains the issues surrounding the range selector wiring and the switch pack illumination. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
21st Dec 2021 11:57 pm
forest66
Member Since: 04 Jan 2021
Location: Lymington
Posts: 84
More to look forward to then lol , me and my big mouth , still it's all good stuff I need to know to keep mine on the road
22nd Dec 2021 1:33 am
forest66
Member Since: 04 Jan 2021
Location: Lymington
Posts: 84
Hi . Hope u all had a lovely holiday.
OK I'm back on this d3
The new compressor is going on ,
My q is :
Brass ferrule there is two in kit DA3964 for my size pipe I need to splice , see the pic am I correct one in the compressor as per original, and none in the new push fit back to back ? And one is a spare with the repair kit ?
I was hoping to fit this today but it keeps raining ugh!
Oh and the voltage from being left for 4 days was 12.2 v does that sound normal? I ask because there was a suspected battery drain but I suspect the old battery, I swapped out the battery and so far this is the longest it's been left unused
Thanks for ur time
28th Dec 2021 2:20 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4876
Can you pose the first part of that question again? It should be straight forward fitting using what ever you need from the kit.
As for the battery, 12.2 is low but it should still start it. Glow plugs and the starter could drag it down though, (more dtc's!) so best to pump it up a bit first if you can. Perhaps it wasn't fully charged before being parked up, with all the faffing about diagnosing the problems. I would have expected a much lower voltage present after 4 days if you had a battery drain issue!
Holidays were (are) good and it's not over yet either, not by a long shot. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Dec 2021 3:50 pm
forest66
Member Since: 04 Jan 2021
Location: Lymington
Posts: 84
ok sorry, the larger of the pipes as in the pic is from the repair kit and i need to use it as the original pipe had melted ,
the kit has two brass fittings in my size and i think i just need the one as you see in photo , my question should of been do i need brass fittings in the back to back connector in the pic ? i think not as the kit didnt have three but one would fit in it , that is why im asking ,
as for the battery the story is , the original batt was a year old (lr branded) and kept going flat over 3 then 2 days , when not in use, it tests ok on a battery analyzer so the old mech says "its your truck not the battery i sold you !
now on my d3 i had the very same thing a lr branded battery that went flat over 2 or 3 days or a afternoon if the door was open while i worked on it , and it also would test ok on my cheap analyzer , i bought a new one not a lr branded and it been perfect ever since over a year now , im pretty sure its the same issue , a poor battery capacity doesn't show up on these analyzers
28th Dec 2021 4:20 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4876
No the joiner is a self sealing/locking push on fit. As for the battery it is possible you have a drain on it but that's for later I would suggest. Get it charged up before you next start the engine and this will prevent any ghost dtc's being thrown up.
It's always a good idea to switch off the interior lights if the doors are to be frequently opened whilst working on the car. There's a lot of courtesy lights, roof front and rear, doors, footwells etc. They're all low consumers but when taken together they add up, and will can down a battery if left unchecked!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Dec 2021 4:42 pm
forest66
Member Since: 04 Jan 2021
Location: Lymington
Posts: 84
ive fitted the comp it lifts the car, although there is issues as the comp doesnt seem to turn off often enough it has shut off but then started again , it says lifting slowly when i put it in to off road , and i heard a hiss of air like when a compressor has run up and shuts off which ive not heard before , so tomorrow ill look for leaks and any thing you might suggest
28th Dec 2021 6:13 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4876
Seems there is a serious leak somewhere, possibly responsible for toasting the previous compressor. You should only hear the exhaust valve momentarily at the end of the refill cycle and nothing more. It sounds like the compressor is filling faster than the leak can deplete, but eventually the compressor has to cut in again!
Just check your work (connections) first and work outward from there. It should be very easy to detect especially if it's audible.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Dec 2021 6:51 pm
forest66
Member Since: 04 Jan 2021
Location: Lymington
Posts: 84
hi again well maybe i was over reacting on the pump running it does turn its self off in under two mins which i believe is ok? in off road setting it runs up to 1700 odd kPa everything seems to work it goes up and down as it should, but if i sit in it and leave it ticking over in standard height the pump will cut in and out at times the kPa in standard is 1100 odd but just now i was watching it and it went up to 1300kPa in standard so not sure about it now ,
im wondering if there is a leak as it cuts in and out while the truck is stationary on tick over or is that normal ?
no suspension faults now either ,
pump temp has been 123c at its highest
motor temp around 100c
im wondering if ive sorted this or there could still be a leak , does this system hold its pressure well ? i guess if i leave it a while and then go look at the kPa when i first turn on if its got a leak the pressure will be down but would it log a fault if that was the case ?
30th Dec 2021 1:59 pm
forest66
Member Since: 04 Jan 2021
Location: Lymington
Posts: 84
i spraied all my new pipe connections with soapy water and there is no leaks in what ive done , ive not got any further than that yet ,
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is there a way to get to it , under rear arch 
It should be straight forward fitting using what ever you need from the kit.
