Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Thanks Gary, changing headlamp bulbs was traumatic but I think I will recover.
Hot water pressure washers - always fancied one but can't justify it.
I have been watching your progress, trials and tribulations whilst messing about with various pipes, hoses and clamps. You must be close to finishing, fingers crossed for you, good luck.
3rd Feb 2022 8:14 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Ur so welcome and hopefully u won’t need to take a holiday to recover
Many thks , alas still quite a lot to get finished , ie
Undo and adjust t bolt clamp on turbo hose
Bolt- nuts for the bracket , options - run a tap through the thread or fit smaller nut and bolt through existing nut hole
Sort out front axle breather
Refit lower and upper rad cowl
Refit fan
Refit TCM module
Refit throttle body Y assembly
Reconnect EGR pipes
Refit top air inlet pipe
Fit lower intercooler silicone hose
Test all the various sensors for the 5Vdc signal feed
Replace all the crumbling engine loom conduit
Think that just about covers it, lol
Thanks so much once again and will be so pleased once I can get it all back together
3rd Feb 2022 10:42 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Ha! That's nothing compared to replacing the headlamp bulbs
So what are you going to do this afternoon?
I know what you mean about the crumbling plastic sleeving. Mine is similar and is a job I will get to. This stripped thread you have been pondering - I can't picture where it is but have you considered maybe using chemical metal or miliput - fill the stripped nut then drill and tap?
3rd Feb 2022 11:23 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Morning world! I hope you are well.
It's a blustery, cold and wet morning here in N.Wales but I have been out and attacked a couple of minor maintenance jobs. First I wanted to look at the rear parking sensors. Yesterday was very wet and after a trundle up to the Wirral and back I had a PDC fault. A quick search suggests water in the sensors. A check of the fault codes showed rear left inner.
The Disco had been left outside overnight with a slight downhill attitude and it appears any water had drained out of the sensors as all was well this morning. Anyway, I thought I would give all the sensors a good blow out with compressed air followed by a good dowsing in WD40. All is seemingly well.
Next job was replace the front side light bulbs. Mine were really yellowed and not as bright as they should be so I put in new standard bulbs which has brightened things up quite nicely. I did ponder putting in LED side lights but decided I'll keep it stock.
Yesterday was a busy day. A friend asked me to tag along when he went to look at buying a Disco 3. I said I was happy to go and plug it in and see what potential problems there might be. The list was long and mostly old uncleared codes from years ago. A quick look round showed the rear prop needs replacing, battery was a little weak, there is a suspension fault and there was also a turbo fault. The car is an 09 HSE with 144k. After much deliberating and some negotiating and a brave pill, my friend took the plunge and bought it £6k. That's a bit of a steal as cosmetically it is in pretty good shape.
Anyway, we got it back to mine and stuck it on the ramp. Another session with the Gap IID saw most of the codes removed but the suspension and turbo faults remained. The turbo looked like a stuck actuator so we went for it. NSF wheel off, heat shield removed. First I used a piece of high tension fence wire to try and move the actuator - no way, it was solid.
I pondered. Access is not the best but with what I could see, I rummaged in the tool box and grabbed a long flat blade screwdriver, firmly placed it against the ball end and pushed. No a lot happened, this thing was really stuck. Anyway, I tried again with a really hard push.... it moved (not much). I picked up the fence wire again and bent a simple hook in the end, my theory being push with the screwdriver and pull with the wire. It seemed to work. I then picked up a can of GT85 and sprayed liberally, waited (not for long) then tried again. Slowly the actuator started to move. I kept on with the push and pull action with the occasional spray of GT85 and it moved more and more and became more free. My friend had to bail on me for a while so I kept at it. After about half an hour, maybe 45 minutes the actuator was free. I could move it easily with a finger tip. At that point I called it job done. Sprayed down with brake cleaner to degrease and blasted with compressed air.
Refit the heat shield, throw the wheel back on and hopefully good to go. Before going in through the arch, we had attempted to snare the actuator from the top so the engine cover, battery and battery box had been taken off. The battery had been put on charge while all this faffing about went on. So I reassembled the battery box, put the battery back in and put the key in the ignition to see if the engine fault had gone. SUCCESS. Full power had been restored. Looks like the gamble has paid off, at least for now.
The suspension fault looks likely to be a poorly compressor. The valves all seem to work fine when commanded using the IID tool but the fault says C1A20-64 (AF) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir. Says compressor to me. The fault did clear temporarily but returned within a short time so looks like my friend will be replacing the compressor.
Anyway, all in all it was great to use the IID to check out the car and sorting the turbo actuator wasn't as bad as I thought it might be. Luckily it is working but if it needed a turbo that would have been a nightmare; don't know if I fancy trying to replace a turbo, at least not without a two post to be able to remove the body.
Cheers
6th Feb 2022 9:59 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
I've not been up to much recently but I have been pondering some jobs I should do. After my friend purchased his D3 the other week and being mindful of the suspension fault I thought I should maybe have a look see at the air compressor.
I have to say I had a nice Land Rover surprise. Mine is an '07 and might reasonably be expected to have the Hitachi compressor although I believed it had an AMK because the Gap IID said that was the software in use.
Anyway, I decided to take a gander having just ordered a service kit to replace the desiccant and seals. I wanted to know if this would be a nightmare job or a nice easy improvement. Turns out it will be easy
I undid the bolts on the cover and unclipped the bottom from the top cover then undid the front air pipe, then the rear air pipe. Unclipped the two electrical plugs then undid the three compressor mountings. A bit of a wiggle and out it popped!
So it looks like somebody gave it some love at some time, all genuine Land Rover parts, pipes and install. The compressor wasn't even that dirty but I suspect it hasn't seen any attention since it was installed so provided the bits turn up that should be Saturday morning sorted. In other news my trusty nut gun has died. It didn't want to play so I have consigned it to the bin. It was about 15 years old so I suppose I can't complain. I've ordered a like for like replacement so all is well but... whilst browsing the air tools on the Machinemart website it got me to thinking the compressor is rather old and getting temperamental so I might treat myself..... mmmmmmmmm we'll see.
Anyway, that's it for now, I shall let you know how the compressor service goes, with pictures of course!
14th Feb 2022 5:54 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
I had a crack at the air suspension compressor yesterday. My mission was to pop the compressor out, remove the drier to replace the filters, desiccant and also the o-rings for the solenoid valve, relief valve and the drier itself.
It's not a bad job really. Took me about an hour or so. Before getting in to it, I did have a look for any videos, guides or other info. I found a good video from 4x4 airseals. I also ordered the parts from them via ebay. Please note this is for an AMK compressor.
So with the parts in hand I set to. Put the car on the lift, raised the suspension to off road height for better access then using a 10mm socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet and extension undid the three fasteners on the lower compressor housing.
I undid the front air pipe (14mm spanner). I undid the rear air pipe (12mm spanner). I pulled of the exhaust pipe. I separated the electrical plugs - don't yank the main power connector off the chass is rail, slide it toward the front then simply press the latch and the plug will separate.
Next, I undid the three "feet" that support the compressor and removed the springs and the rubber mounts - they just push fit in to the bracket. This gives more wiggle room. Now the compressor comes out, I manoeuvre it out toward the back.
Compressor out, next undo the drier. Remove the electrical connector to the solenoid valve then undo the two retaining bolts/screws with a suitably sized torx bit. Be mindful there is a spring in there and you need to try and keep some control. Also, if the perforated metal disc that hold the filter in place is loose, you will likely end up with a big pile of desiccant spilling out.
So drier out! Find a receptacle ready to replace desiccant. Remove the filter, pour out desiccant. In the bottom there is another filter. Remove it. Next, pull the blue canister the desiccant was in. That way you can give it a wipe out and also, you can wipe the inside of the housing. It will likely have some moisture in it.
Grubby filters!
So with all of that cleaned out I moved on to removing the exhaust valve. The cap simply twists off. Remove the valve, again watch out for the spring. Look inside. There will probably be some sticky white residue, you need to clean it off. I used a combination of workshop tissue and brake cleaner then blast with compressed air. Remove the o-rings and replace with the ones in the service kit after giving them a smear of silicone grease.
Before putting it all back in, undo the two screws holding the solenoid valve, the cap/connector bit was a bit stuck. Carefully lever it off and remove the solenoid and valve. As before, clean up any white residue, remove o-rings then reassemble.
While I was at it I thought I should probably take a look inside the compressor. Taking the top off showed some debris sitting on top of the piston and the o-ring sealing the end wasn't the best. This seal isn't part of the kit I had so I had to just clean it as bet I could and put it all back together. I also looked at the valve at the other end, it was a bit dirty but nothing untoward as far as I could tell.
Happy with my efforts I put it all back together. All in all an easy job and well worth it knowing the desiccant, filters and o-rings have been done and that it is actually a reasonably quick and easy job to do. Put it all back in, connected up power and pipes, put the covers on and fired it up. All is good, no faults. Another job jobbed.
20th Feb 2022 11:33 am
Wildboy
Member Since: 08 Apr 2018
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 8
Nice work kev, this job is imminent on mine, good to see a work through
26th Feb 2022 8:24 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Thanks Wildboy, it's not a bad job to do at all. Good luck with it.
Anyway, I hope are all having a great day! The sun is shining, there is only a gentle breath of wind and not a cloud in the sky. Days like this make you feel good.
I have been toying with the idea of taking the glow plugs out. I know this fills some with dread and horror; if it goes wrong it can be eyewateringly expensive. It is a risk for sure. I am sure I should have been doing something else today but I just decided that I should investigate the glow plugs to get a feel for what is involved.
I took a deep breath and went for it. Disconnected the batteries just to be safe - not sure I really needed to but it's hardly a challenge. Air intake pipe off, fan shroud off. The fan was putting up a fight today, never had to battle it before? I used my usual approach, plumbers adjustable spanner and a dead blow hammer; it took several sharp hits before if started to spin off - and yes I did remember it is left hand thread!
Disconnect EGR pipes and remove the throttle body. Now I can see a bit more. There's not a lot of room to get on the glow plugs, I could see the oil filter had to come out; I did unscrew it and then thought about it You're going to want a new oil filter now aren't you? Oh well, I guess that will be a little run out to get a new filter then - the sun is shining it's a nice day.
I can see the oil separator has to come out, that looks like a right faff. Releasing fuel lines and engine harness is not really a problem but not keen on the coolant pipe across the back of the engine. Well as I am not actually going to do the glow plugs today I don't need to worry about that today.
With a bit more room to see at least 4 of the glow plugs I gave them a spray with GT85. I pulled off the funny plug thing as best I could from the front plugs on each side taking care not to bend it too much then I could get a deep set 8mm socket on to 3 of the plugs. I used a longish extension and a "T" bar. I tried the first plug, front right, expecting it to be solid. I applied a bit of twist and hey presto, it just unwound with next to no effort at all. I pulled it out of the hole and was pleasantly surprised to find the plug was reasonably clean with not much soot and carbon. I could see it was Beru plug but no indication of date. I grabbed a spare battery and some jump leads and hooked it up. Well not a lot happened. It eventually started to feel luke warm to touch but didn't glow. So that one is dead.
I tried the next one in on the right. Same again, little effort to undo it, pulled it out, put power to it - DEAD.
I managed to get on the front left glow plug, it was a bit tight to undo it but again, not much effort needed and after cracking it loose I was able to undo it with my fingers. Same story, BERU plug, not particularly sooty and no carbon build up. Same as the other two, it was not responding to power.
I put the plugs back in, ensuring I put some copper grease on the threads to make sure they will come out. I wound them in finger tight then just nipped them up. At least I know 50% of the glow plugs are dead but easy to remove and swap out for new ones. The other three plugs will mean a bit more faffing about but the indications are very good that they should come out.
I know you all like pictures; pic or it didn't happen right
Start by taking off lots of bits just for access. Then you need to be getting in here.
Front right plugs, surprisingly easy to undo!
The left is restricted access without taking a pile of other stuff apart.
Don't forget you'll be needing a new oil filter
I think my master plan might be to schedule glow plug replacement when I do the oil pump which still needs doing so I shall need to put a weekend aside for some surgery but I think some warmer weather would be better. Watch this space.
Cheers.
Last edited by classic kev on 28th Feb 2022 3:38 pm. Edited 1 time in total
27th Feb 2022 3:42 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
They say what a difference a day makes - it is wet and miserable which is a real turnaround since yesterday; never mind.
I ordered some replacement glow plugs and also a set of crows foot wrenches/sockets - not sure how best to describe them, anyway I am gearing up for doing the glow plugs. Must remember oil filter
I also had to replace a key, one of the buttons inside the fob disintegrated. Luckily I did have 2 original working fobs. I bought a couple of new pattern fobs off ebay, they seem pretty good, rechargeable battery and after programming work really well. I pulled the original blade off the broken key I had and put it on the new fob. I will need to get a new blade cut then I can program the remaining new fob so I will have 3 keys which seems like a good idea.
Programming the keys using the Gap IID tool is so easy and takes no time at all. I don't know how much it is to get a key coded but the ability to do it myself is great.
Onward!
28th Feb 2022 3:35 pm
DaveCav
Member Since: 05 Jun 2021
Location: Luton
Posts: 44
Hi Kev,
It looks like your progressing well.
Your friend sounds like he has done well with the 09 disco. I had to ease the actuator on mine- i used two bike spokes fashioned into a hook and some GT85. I then applied some high temperature ceramic grease.
I have now competed the crossover pipe change- on axle stands with gearbox and body in situ- I am not going to lie, it was a PITA.
Each nut for the crossover pipe was corroded or damaged so i cut them bit by bit with a dremel EZ Cut disc, then removed the remains.
I struggled to get to the top bolt on the turbo side so decided to cut the flange off the pipe to create some access. That worked and I managed to remove the nut a click at a time with my ratchet spanner. With that removed, I undone the brackets and teased the pipe out- fairly easy.
Then i removed the old studs, fitted new ones, fed the new pipe over the gearbox, fitted new gaskets and nuts. 2 of the nuts were a challenge to do up as they were also one click at a time but they are tight
Whilst the downpipe was off, I sliced it open, gutted the inner and rewelded it - again, new gaskets and nuts.
I have also been painting the chassis
Front upper & lower arms with anti-roll bar links, replacement d4 struts and tie rods done already- just the rears to do now
Sorry for the lack of pics.
23rd Mar 2022 7:33 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Hi Dave, you have been a busy busy boy. Impressed you did the cross over pipe, bet that was a mission. How long did that take to do?
By the sound of things you can't have much left to do. I have been pondering what to do next myself and think my plan will be replace the oil pump, timing belt, tensioner and idlers, HPFP belt and tensioner, and glow plugs in one hit.I will obviously be replacing the oil and filter at the same time. While I'm at it, I am minded to attack the gearbox with a new metal sump and new filter and at the same time replace the bridge seal and the tube seals under the mechatronic unit.
I did some searching and concluded the bridge and tube seals are worth doing when dropping the sump because it takes very little extra time and effort to do them and even if you don't think they need doing you can be sure at 14+ years old the seals won't be as good as they were so you might as well get it done.
Engine bits and gearbox will be a pile of work and I reckon I should allow at least 2 days, maybe 3 to do the lot but at least I will have the option to do it in stages if I need to. I will post pics when I get in to it.
Cheers.
24th Mar 2022 8:23 am
DaveCav
Member Since: 05 Jun 2021
Location: Luton
Posts: 44
Quite busy
The crossover pipe i carried out here and there with other tasks but if you condensed time i would prob say around 2.5 days. Again- restricted access and tools.
your plan to do the major engine works at the same time makes sense.
I am unsure on the sump etc as mine is manual- this may of helped with the crossover pipe as the manual gearbox bellhousing/ casing maybe smaller than the auto?
I would say 3 days for what you need to do??
I have rear upper and lower arms, roll bar links, D bushs and track/tie rods. Also rust treatment and paint the rear half of the chassis etc.
Also at some point, i would like to drop the rear bumper, fix my parking sensors and paint the rear crossmember as it looks a bit scabby. Bumper removal might be a pain as i have a swing away wheel carrier on the back.
28th Mar 2022 8:45 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Thanks for that Dave, sounds like you're nearly done, or at least the "to do" list is short (for now )
I've not been doing much. Weekend before last I had to do some fencing so hitched the trailer on the car and went and bought some bits of wood, then loaded up the fence wire. The good news is, if your gearbox is not good a big trailer and steep hills will soon tell you if the torque converter is on its way out. Mine is fine (touch wood!).
Anyway, just to show mine does get used for proper stuff, some pics of it in the sun:
A bit of messing about and some time later - new gate post and bits of fence in place
A few more posts and the hard work is done.
It was nice to get out in the sun; hopefully I won't need to do this bit of fence for a few years provided always that SWBO's ponies don't break it!
5th Apr 2022 12:40 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
The Disco has decided to show off its red airbag light
I was just driving along then for no apparent reason the light came on. I reset it and all seemed fine but on my return journey the light was back on. When I got home I reset it again but had a sneaking suspicion it was probably a clockspring problem. I had to pop out again, the light was out part of the way but then came back on. After resetting again I wiggled the steering wheel and sure enough, moving the steering wheel caused the light to come on so it looks like it will be a replacement clockspring. Hopefully it won't be too much of a chore to do, so another job to add to the list.
13th Apr 2022 8:09 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Not much happening really. Red airbag light still comes on and now I have that annoying yellow engine light as well. I can't f....ing believe it, it's that damned right hand egr valve again. This is just taking liberties. Anyway, I had a look at the live data, the valve does move when driven but I can't hear it clicking when I switch off and my IID tool doesn't show it doing a self clean. Will have a think about it; replace the valve or bite the bullet and do an egr delete and software patch.
As part of my faffing around with that I popped the throttle body off and gave it a bit of a clean, did the same with the egr spigots and the MAP sensor then threw it all back together.
Apart from that all is dandy at least until I do the oil pump and belt etc in a couple of months time.
In other news I have been showing my ageing digger some love; it's a 1978 Massey 50B, I've just done new inner and outer air filters, both fuel filters, throttle shaft and seals, stop shaft seals and an oil and oil filter change as well as exhaust manifold gaskets. I even gave it a bit of a clean (mostly so I can see which hydraulic hoses need replacement!).
Old machinery is just so easy to work on - no complicated electronics, loads of space to get at bits and anything that needs to be moved you just undo it, no complex procedures. Mind you, it isn't exactly ergonomic but then again it is just a digger.
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You're going to want a new oil filter now aren't you? Oh well, I guess that will be a little run out to get a new filter then - the sun is shining it's a nice day.
- again, new gaskets and nuts.
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