Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
OK the day of reckoning is here!
MOT test.
Bets please: Pass? Fail? Advisories?
Car is 2007 with 125,990 miles.
13th Jan 2022 4:34 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Will pass with flying colours mate
13th Jan 2022 5:32 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
DaveCav wrote:
The lower arms where not too bad. i will need alignment any way due to the lower arms are adjustable.
i think i may go for Meyle- my budget is long gone lol.
I need to do the rear upper arms but as you said gstuart, my lower arms are on an advisory from last year so i will inspect them also whilst the suspension is disturbed.
my D3 has so much surface corrosion- a life in salty Scotland and poor prep by the previous applicator of the old coating that has acted like a cocoon for water and salt so i need to address it sooner rather than later.
Kev- Thursday- good luck, i am sure it will be fine The belts and oil pump job is an okay one- let me know if you want to borrow the timing belt kit heading to Brecon in April so may be able to sort something.
Glow plugs- i think i will look at those once i have done my other jobs- i have enough to break an fix at the moment.
I have bought a Sealey torque wrench- 60-330Nm for £70
Hiya
Hope u hide the swear jar when doing the rear uppers , lol, admittedly I bought a recip saw with some decent blades , did try cheap blades at first but they soon were trashed , have seen some members buy one of those coil heaters for tight bolts
I’m hoping the rear lowers will be kinder to me , also going to go for Meyle, uppers were genuine , did replace my drop links with meyle when I done the upper rear arms and the 3 x brake hoses each side
Funny enough got a Milwaukee impact gun to try and make life easier for the rear lower arms
That’s a pain of the previous owner not preparing the chassis etc , jet washed , then steam cleaned mine, think it took longer to clean it than the actual spraying , but still looks good after 4+ years
Hope all goes well mate
13th Jan 2022 5:44 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
The MOT result:
PASS
No advisories.
I am so pleased after all the work I have done and the dodgy history of the car prior to my ownership. It should hopefully be easy now to keep on top of it notwithstanding routine wear and tear and service replacement.
14th Jan 2022 8:50 am
Mambo
Member Since: 31 Dec 2021
Location: North Wales
Posts: 75
Great news that Kev,
All that hard work paid off.
14th Jan 2022 1:50 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
classic kev wrote:
The MOT result:
PASS
No advisories.
I am so pleased after all the work I have done and the dodgy history of the car prior to my ownership. It should hopefully be easy now to keep on top of it notwithstanding routine wear and tear and service replacement.
That’s great news and indeed thought it would sail through , hats off to u mate for all the hard work as it’s clearly paid off
Can hear that sigh of relief from here
15th Jan 2022 9:26 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
Im always amazed that people are suprised that there cars pass the MOT, but when you take into account that the MOT standard is the minimum standard that you can drive a car on the road it shouldnt be that hard if a car is well maintained.Andrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
15th Jan 2022 11:49 am
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
You are right, but not many people take the trouble to check the most critical bits and not many know what they are looking for.
For myself, I was reasonably confident but some things are difficult to check without help, steering for example.
The thing that gets me is when people kick off if their car fails seemingly unable to comprehend that their car requires repairs. I take the view that you need to ask yourself if you would be happy to put your nearest and dearest in the car knowing what has been found? I know a blown bulb is hardly a major problem but if it was suspension, steering or brakes it is difficult to argue. From the testers point of view, they have a responsibility and the penalties for not playing the game are severe. The other thing is, the issue of an MOT is up to the tester. It is his or her opinion about your vehicle. If you don’t like it, appeal.
15th Jan 2022 7:29 pm
DaveCav
Member Since: 05 Jun 2021
Location: Luton
Posts: 44
gstuart;
Are they that bad? i know that my drivers side upper rears has new bolts fitted so looks like it has been off recently before i bought it in august 21?? but i am going to replace both anyway.
changed the drivers side lower arm, anti-roll bar link, air-strut and roll bar D bush on Sunday. all worth doing- the bushes where shot!!
i have some wheel bearings on route and will get the steering/tie rods ordered too.
made a start on the crossover pipe too- that is going to be fun.......
Kev-
well done - as you say- keep on top of the maintenance and all should be okay
Aja4x4-
Alot of folk do not have any knowledge at all- expensive with motors like the RR, D3 & D4. i have friends who think £800 at MOT time is just how it is!!!
18th Jan 2022 6:46 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Hi Dave,
Wheel bearings and tie rods shouldn't be too bad, crossover pipe may be a challenge. Don't forget pics or it didn't happen!
I am not entirely surprised some people think expensive MOT repairs are normal but that's what happens if all you ever do is jump in and turn the key expecting everything to work all the time without doing anything except put fuel in. Alternatively, I suppose another view might be that the MOT is the annual service!
19th Jan 2022 8:02 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
DaveCav wrote:
gstuart;
Are they that bad? i know that my drivers side upper rears has new bolts fitted so looks like it has been off recently before i bought it in august 21?? but i am going to replace both anyway.
changed the drivers side lower arm, anti-roll bar link, air-strut and roll bar D bush on Sunday. all worth doing- the bushes where shot!!
i have some wheel bearings on route and will get the steering/tie rods ordered too.
made a start on the crossover pipe too- that is going to be fun.......
Kev-
well done - as you say- keep on top of the maintenance and all should be okay
Alot of folk do not have any knowledge at all- expensive with motors like the RR, D3 & D4. i have friends who think £800 at MOT time is just how it is!!!
Hi
Alas mine were the originals so a right =-&#&#=# to get out , had to cut the bolts
That’s great u have new bolts so indeed should make life a lot easier
19th Jan 2022 11:55 am
DaveCav
Member Since: 05 Jun 2021
Location: Luton
Posts: 44
Kev- i have been getting some pics. believe me- the mental scars and cut hands defiantly shows it happened
gstuart- i will find out soon i am sure
22nd Jan 2022 10:53 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Hi Dave
Fingers crossed they come out easily for u , also think the bolts were high tensile as my god they were hard to cut through
Learned a big lesson by firstly buying cheap recip blades , in the end bought some by Diablo , then used coppaslip on the new bolts
Will be interesting in comparison when I get round to replacing the rear lower arms
Plse let us know how u get on
22nd Jan 2022 11:12 pm
classic kev
Member Since: 12 Feb 2021
Location: Mold
Posts: 207
Hello again!
I've had to carry out a repair today. I was a bit apprehensive, looked like a big job, had to remove the headlights! Then, then I had to unscrew a plastic cover, disconnect wiring and everything. It was so stressful. However, I am pleased to confirm I have managed to change BOTH headlight bulbs
In other news, I bought a new toy. A new pressure washer.
I would have to admit to using a cheap Chinese petrol pressure washer for the last couple of years, it was OK but it has essentially fallen to bits and I'm not prepared to waste any more time or effort patching it up. The engine runs but it is lumpy, I have welded up the exhaust at least 3 times, the oil seal on the pump is shot and the keyway on the pump shaft is mullered, the high pressure hose is horrible and has split so it has to go. I have an old and now rather sick Nilfisk Poseidon, I've had that about 10 years and although not used for a while it has done quite well but I think the start stop switch or unloader valve has had enough and rather than repair it I thought I would go mad and get a pressure washer that should last at least 10 years and more.
So enter the new Kranzle 10/122. Wow... I know it was expensive but after using it for just 10 minutes I know I should have bought one of these long ago. No excuses for a dirty car now.
2nd Feb 2022 3:59 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 14177
Hiya
after that extremely stressful bulb change i imagine u needed a long rest after that , snigger
Must admit hadn’t heard of Kranzie before but my god, 12-120 Bar , yikes that’s some serious pressure and indeed know what u mean, u keep messing around with old equipment and in the end just end up stressed before you’ve even started the job , looks a really nice bit of kit and to be honest don’t think that really expensive for what it does
Still have my old karcher and must admit got my monies worth , think it’s a K7 and some of the new karchers I feel in comparison are extremely expensive to other makes, have a nilfisk steam cleaner , nothing special but was brilliant when I steamed cleaned all the interior, seats and cleaning the chassis etc
Imagine ur new pressure washer would be ideal using it as a sandblaster etc
Think once u get into the hot water pressure washers the price dramatically jumps up
Hope ur keeping well and things are going well with the disco , must admit I’ll be pleased once I get mine all back together
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