Member Since: 06 Nov 2018
Location: Spain
Posts: 6
2006 2.7 TDV6 new crankshaft
Sorry, no Disco, but same engine (the other site is a bit too posh for this question )
So, above mentioned engine. Snapped crankshaft. So far, not finding anything other aspects with the engine. Looks like it snapped and seized the engine immediately. All bearings look fine (in fact like new with still some color coding on them). All the main bearing seatings looks perfect.
Was pulling it apart with a new (used Jag. engine) in mind. Now, thinking of rebuilding.
But where to buy new crankshaft? So many options with so big price difference. Staing clear of the chineese ones obviously. But with prices at Island4x4 half of what Turner wants for example? Whats the difference? Do NOT want a brit-part one.. and prefferably a crank that has been modified/strenghtened so it wont snap again? (-and by that notion, leaves me wondering why on earth it snapped in the first place. Not under my ownership, but can't find any reason for it when picking it appart.. No bearings turned and all nicely soaked in oil.. Only thing i can find.. -a KCR tuning box attached to it...)
Anyways, back to real life, Anyone recomending a good place and/or what to look for in a new crank? I've heared of a portugeese option, but can't find anything on google...
-OC
28th Nov 2020 3:29 am
defector
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: Greater Manchester
Posts: 1438
If you want to reuse the block for a rebuild, please check the alignment of the block i.e the bearing holders.
When the crank snapped, there may have been forces that went askew.
28th Nov 2020 3:54 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4906
As above^^^
Go back to your original thinking and source a Jag S type TDV6
That block is now very likely warped and beyond repair. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
28th Nov 2020 4:02 am
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1798
If block not warped then a F150 crank from the same size engine should fit.
28th Nov 2020 9:45 am
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1117
The F150 did not have a 2.7 engine - the current have a 3.0 - different crankshaft.
28th Nov 2020 11:30 am
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 354
OceanCarl,
I'd be very interested in pictures of the old crank at the failure point, i.e. looking end on to the face of each failure, if you were so inclined?
Interested if there are beach like signs of crack propagation and some kind of defect (porosity) at the crack initiation point.
Might be nothing to see if the two ends have rubbed and smeared the metal surfaces though.
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
28th Nov 2020 12:58 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2462
I dont think its very common on the 2.7 normally the bearings spin and cause the crank failure.
I had my block checked by my local machine shop before they carried out the rebore so didnt charge me.
28th Nov 2020 2:11 pm
OceanCarl
Member Since: 06 Nov 2018
Location: Spain
Posts: 6
Will off-course check that everyting is within its tolerances first, but thanks for the advices.
Considering a forged crank if I can source one out. Any experience with this?
None of the bearings have been spinning and there is no marks indicating the broken pieces has been grinded against each other. NO metal shavings anywhere. It has simply broken and instantly locked up the engine.
As there was no way, even with a 2 meter arm on the nut, to turn the engine, I had to hang it with the gearbox from the elephant and pull down the parts from the underside before I could turn it and access the TC bolts..
@Breg90 (and to anyone else with special interest ): Enjoy the pics
Click image to enlarge
Last edited by OceanCarl on 29th Nov 2020 6:57 pm. Edited 2 times in total
29th Nov 2020 6:04 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
So, since you do not know the history of this engine... it can be a replacement engine/crankshaft? A cheapy? (Are there brand markings on the crank? ) “Overhauled” engine? Undersized big-end shells? Who did that? There are a lot of cowboys arround these day’s...
Bottom line, do you trust the quality of the rest of the engine?Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
29th Nov 2020 6:27 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2462
Thats an interesting fracture on the crank.
It could be its a Chinese copy was there any signs the engine has been rebuilt?
29th Nov 2020 6:59 pm
OceanCarl
Member Since: 06 Nov 2018
Location: Spain
Posts: 6
No worries Motolab, I have a fairly good idea of the history of the car - with all the service papers following and all. Most parts on the car and engine are original. The problem, probably, was with the previous owner really wanting a supercharged Sport. He had fitted (red) Brembo brakes in the front, A KCR tuning box and was sourcing 22" rims when the engine failed. I believe his right foot must have been pretty heavy on the throttle
Anyways, I'll take my chances and rebuild the engine. Engine parts needed are much easier to get hold on than a jag.engine from where I am situated.
Its a low-cost corona project from my end as I got the car really cheap and I am not dependent of this car (SWMBO has her own vehicle and my own RRS TDV8 is all good)
Actually playing with some thoughts of converting this one into something of a Overlander if I get its engine running. Not many RRS Ovelanders out there. I'm considering (I know many die hard RRS fans will kill me now) to rip out all items that has anything to do with the EAS and fit coils (with a lift). Maybe sourcing a static sway bar and get rid of the DSC. Have as little technical special gadgets on it as possible in order to make it less addictive to having a LR service shop in the vicinity. Mounting a winch, a roofrack, some extra lighting, big AT or MT tires and maybe even painting it with Raptor paint to make it "bulletproof" -Please feel free to come with suggestions..
Dont get me wrong. EAS, DSC, Special Programs etc.. -I would never be without it on my own RRS TDV8. But I have had the TDV8 for eight years now and I know exactly what state its components are in and what to expect. And I am using the TDV8 for everything from cruising the highways in 140 to crawling up small forrest paths to distance cabins. So the LR "gadgets" together with this unique legend of a car brand makes it exactly the perfect vehicle for me with high comfort and still high manoeuvrability and capability of going anywhere. BUT: I would not go of grid and through Sahara with it. My old series III, yes, but not this one as there is too many gadgets with the potential to fail..
But back to the project, as it is a project.. Anything I do with it IS reversible if it turns out to be crap.. So why not..
Oh - and just realised this is the Disco3 forum and not the RRS forum, so sorry to all that feels I am in the wrong place now... I visited you, originally, because i feel there is a lot more DIY'ers here than on the RRS forum and a lot more experience with the TDV6.. So back to topic...
29th Nov 2020 7:45 pm
OceanCarl
Member Since: 06 Nov 2018
Location: Spain
Posts: 6
aja4x4 wrote:
It could be its a Chinese copy was there any signs the engine has been rebuilt?
-Its all original as far as I can tell. I've seen a lot of cracked casted parts back in the days I was in the metallurgical lab, as a student, testing material strength. This looks the same.. -Chinese copy - or Chinese original?? -Doesn't matter.. Out from an engineers perspective I find the design rather weak and is definitely something made in compromise with production cost, lightweight and a small footprint. I doubt this would have happened with a forged crank. -And reading about all the engines with spun bearings, I really do not understand why the engineers did not put in the "notch" in the Rods and bearings like it used to be..
29th Nov 2020 7:58 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2462
The 2.7 usually doesnt suffer with cracked cranks but its possible the tuning box was just too much for the standard crank or the program raised the rev limit
29th Nov 2020 8:26 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
I do not believe that a tuningbox can be mapped so, that it is too much for a 2.7l tdv6 regarding bhp and torque...
In a JAG the same engine has 245 BHP and those engines do not suffer from broken crankshafts.
Yes they weight less, but since the TDV8 3.6 is also a lion engine, basically the same crankshaft but longer, towing FFR etc. And with more torque and BHp than in the 6cyl.... and do also not break i do not believe that type of force is the problem...Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
29th Nov 2020 9:02 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4906
That's an interesting observation Harold, as I have been running with a KCR box for a few years now.
Though I must confess, I'm not exactly comfortable with it being there, and would not advocate it's use to anyone.
It is helpful when towing, but beyond that I tend to keep a light right foot yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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-Please feel free to come with suggestions..
