Discomadness wrote:

I totally agree. I don’t know what it is about the discovery. I was the same with my D1. I spent a fortune and thousands of hours cutting out the rot and keeping it going when most would have given up.
I’m the same with this D3. I think most would have given up but I’m determined it’s not going to beat me. I just need some help with the electronic diagnosis and I really thank guys like you and gstuart, disco Mikey etc for spending the time to help me.
I’ll be heading down the garage for about 9am in the morning, the internet is a bit spotty but if you could give me a direction to start in then I’ll report any and all info.

Hi Jarrod

I don’t know, can’t leave u for 5 x minutes before breaking it

Hope this finds u well

Found some of the ECM/ fuel rail pressure wiring for u, just in case it’s of some use

Sounds really daft , but as u swapped the fuel rail pressure sensor over I wonder if u have to do a hard reset , as wondering then if the ecm then knows it’s not using default settings

Alas know Prof G is vastly more knowledgeable than myself and will soon be able to advise if it would make any difference regarding a hard reset

Also assume the hole that the sensor goes into the rail isn’t blocked

As always will help all I can, without of course stepping on anyone’s toes, lol

See theres a fuel rail temperature sensor , wonder ref canbus can easily tell u what PIN number to check, but alas don’t know if it will show anything but happy to let u know if u wish to try , but at the end of the day don’t want to be disrespectful in any way by steeping on more experienced toes

Hope it helps

Ps, copied ur test results here for u, so thought then easier to look at the wiring diagrams as well

Test results.

12.3v

Voltage on
White/green 4.9v
Brown/green 0v
Yellow/green 4.9v

Voltage off
White/green 0v
Brown/green 0v
Yellow/green 0v

Continuity ign off
White/green o/l
Brown/green beep .015
Yellow/green o/l

Continuity short
W/g-br/g nothing
Br/g-y/g nothing
W/g-y/g nothing

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

  

wedgev8 wrote:

Aaahhhhh!!!! Now I undersrand. There is no problem with the rail pressure sensor. 251 bar at idle and 1138 bar on road is all OK! You can delete the N/A reading out of your mind. This maybe is a software problem in your tool. I do not have this live value on my IID tool. Only the pressure reading. And if this is on display, all is OK with the sensor.

I just checked with my fathers launch tool and it is reading rail pressure. 24040kpa at idle so looks like the iid isn’t reading it.

gstuart wrote:

Discomadness wrote:

I totally agree. I don’t know what it is about the discovery. I was the same with my D1. I spent a fortune and thousands of hours cutting out the rot and keeping it going when most would have given up.
I’m the same with this D3. I think most would have given up but I’m determined it’s not going to beat me. I just need some help with the electronic diagnosis and I really thank guys like you and gstuart, disco Mikey etc for spending the time to help me.
I’ll be heading down the garage for about 9am in the morning, the internet is a bit spotty but if you could give me a direction to start in then I’ll report any and all info.

Hi Jarrod

I don’t know, can’t leave u for 5 x minutes before breaking it

Hope this finds u well

Found some of the ECM/ fuel rail pressure wiring for u, just in case it’s of some use

Sounds really daft , but as u swapped the fuel rail pressure sensor over I wonder if u have to do a hard reset , as wondering then if the ecm then knows it’s not using default settings

Alas know Prof G is vastly more knowledgeable than myself and will soon be able to advise if it would make any difference regarding a hard reset

Also assume the hole that the sensor goes into the rail isn’t blocked

As always will help all I can, without of course stepping on anyone’s toes, lol

See theres a fuel rail temperature sensor , wonder ref canbus can easily tell u what PIN number to check, but alas don’t know if it will show anything but happy to let u know if u wish to try , but at the end of the day don’t want to be disrespectful in any way by steeping on more experienced toes

Hope it helps

Ps, copied ur test results here for u, so thought then easier to look at the wiring diagrams as well

Test results.

12.3v

Voltage on
White/green 4.9v
Brown/green 0v
Yellow/green 4.9v

Voltage off
White/green 0v
Brown/green 0v
Yellow/green 0v

Continuity ign off
White/green o/l
Brown/green beep .015
Yellow/green o/l

Continuity short
W/g-br/g nothing
Br/g-y/g nothing
W/g-y/g nothing

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Discomadness wrote:

gstuart wrote:

Discomadness wrote:

I totally agree. I don’t know what it is about the discovery. I was the same with my D1. I spent a fortune and thousands of hours cutting out the rot and keeping it going when most would have given up.
I’m the same with this D3. I think most would have given up but I’m determined it’s not going to beat me. I just need some help with the electronic diagnosis and I really thank guys like you and gstuart, disco Mikey etc for spending the time to help me.
I’ll be heading down the garage for about 9am in the morning, the internet is a bit spotty but if you could give me a direction to start in then I’ll report any and all info.

Hi Jarrod

I don’t know, can’t leave u for 5 x minutes before breaking it

Hope this finds u well

Found some of the ECM/ fuel rail pressure wiring for u, just in case it’s of some use

Sounds really daft , but as u swapped the fuel rail pressure sensor over I wonder if u have to do a hard reset , as wondering then if the ecm then knows it’s not using default settings

Alas know Prof G is vastly more knowledgeable than myself and will soon be able to advise if it would make any difference regarding a hard reset

Also assume the hole that the sensor goes into the rail isn’t blocked

As always will help all I can, without of course stepping on anyone’s toes, lol

See theres a fuel rail temperature sensor , wonder ref canbus can easily tell u what PIN number to check, but alas don’t know if it will show anything but happy to let u know if u wish to try , but at the end of the day don’t want to be disrespectful in any way by steeping on more experienced toes

Hope it helps

Ps, copied ur test results here for u, so thought then easier to look at the wiring diagrams as well

Test results.

12.3v

Voltage on
White/green 4.9v
Brown/green 0v
Yellow/green 4.9v

Voltage off
White/green 0v
Brown/green 0v
Yellow/green 0v

Continuity ign off
White/green o/l
Brown/green beep .015
Yellow/green o/l

Continuity short
W/g-br/g nothing
Br/g-y/g nothing
W/g-y/g nothing

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Hiya buddy ! Long time no speak.
Thankyou for the info. I’m still at a loss. I’ve continuity checked all the injector wiring and the stuff proff said about. Turns out the rail pressure sensor is reading but the iid isn’t reading it. Maybe I need to contact gap or check the software. Admittedly I haven’t updated it since I’ve had it.
Hope all is well with you buddy. How’s your back now ?

Hi mate

Indeed , long time no speak, always the way when ur busy and time flies by

Just wondering ref the NA, assume that should read 5Vdc but as mentioned is reading the fuel pressure but not the voltage

There has been some updates for the iid so as u say might just need an update , particular if another one reads it

Will be Interesting to see what it says after an update

Also please let me know ref canbus , just need a multimeter for that and can tell u what pins u need to test , at least it will tell u if there’s any issues in the modules

Many thks, alas my back has been a real nightmare, have been seriously struggling as every time I try to remove my wheel to replace my brake hoses or drain and fill new ATF fluid my back pain level goes through the roof so forced to stop, drives me insane , got to try and think of something to try and get round it

Also started to sand down, paint some tubular rock sliders

Fingers crossed can get to the bottom of the issue on ur disco

  

Discomadness wrote:

Perhaps I’m getting confused. The fuel pressure I thought was the sensor on the hpfp and the rail pressure was the sensor on the end of the left hand fuel rail ?

Discomadness wrote:

Test results.

12.3v

Voltage on
White/green 4.9v
Brown/green 0v
Yellow/green 4.9v

Voltage off
White/green 0v
Brown/green 0v
Yellow/green 0v

Continuity ign off
White/green o/l
Brown/green beep .015
Yellow/green o/l

Continuity short
W/g-br/g nothing
Br/g-y/g nothing
W/g-y/g nothing

Added photos of the fluke to show settings used.

OK, this is going to be long so bear with me! Presumably the 12.3v is what you have at the battery before you began? If so it's a bit low but that's for another fight.

What interests me is the results you found the four tests. It is possible your DMM will have operational differences to my own, but either way the readings you have are not what I expected to see.

So we need to go back and do some further testing to either find the same results, or declare a fault in the wiring. What I am expecting to see from your test 3. was:

YG - 365
Br/G - 000 (ie no resistance so your earth is good)
W/G - 1810

And from test 4.

Br/G + Y/G = 366
Br/G + W/G = 1810
Y/G + W/G = 1834

So you can see from the above results there is some resistance between the wires which we can say is traced to their respective locations in the ECM. If I was seeing 000 in these tests it indicates there is "no resistance", in other words the two non earth cables are in contact with each other!! Now this may be just down to your DMM settings, but I suspect there is a short in one of these wires.

The other factor in my thinking is the result in test 1. Br/G 0v is correct as it's the earth, but I'm suspect of the 4.9v on BOTH Y/G & W/G. If we accept Br/G as earth, then one of the other two cables provides the power signal to the FRPS @ 4.9v. The remaining wire is the return signal to the ECM and can't have the same value unless the cables are in contact with each other! The one caveat to this may be that the 4.9v on both is a default position until the engine starts, but this can be confirmed or dismissed by running the engine and testing those two again.(you did do the test with the plug off? )

So you will need to move the DMM to the Ohms setting and hopefully you will get the same results as your first tests confirming what I think is a short between Y/G & W/G causing unexpected voltage spike back to the ECM, and triggering P0193 FRPS high input.

Now this is my hypothesis and I may well be wrong, but the results tell me otherwise.

 yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ