Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 352
Progress has been limited due to:
Inverter for lathe still broken- soldered in a new capacitor. It let out the smoke again.....
Air compressor died and then the pressure switch fell off the tank - metal fatigue of the fitting.
Family outings
I have done some more body clean up at the front though:
Pre clean:
Ready to paint:
Click image to enlarge
Painted (well 1st coat):
Just under the rear wheel arches to sort now and some minor welding at the back.
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
1st Oct 2020 9:36 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2462
1st Oct 2020 10:34 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 352
Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
16th Oct 2020 10:55 pm
gasdisco
Member Since: 02 May 2017
Location: Angus
Posts: 65
That's looking great. Now all you have to remember is how it all goes back together.
Good luck with the weather.01 Discovery2 V8 LPG - Resting
96 Discovery 300 V8 LPG - Resting
91 Discovery 200 TDI - Sold
71 Range Rover (Perkins 4.203) deceased
16th Oct 2020 11:12 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20782
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 352
Not done an update for a while. A few life things going on, a bit of canoeing at weekends & a holiday has sneaked away a fair bit of time.
However been working on a plan to get into the boot. But 1st I need to support the back of the car as I don't fancy getting in the boot and tipping the body off the stand/support.
So knocked up the support below - this is one 1/2 there is one for the other side and some cross bracing. I has the added advantage that once the rear or front of the car (support stand can cope with the different heights at the front or rear of the car using the scaffold threaded jack stands & the axle stand tubes I have repurposed for the top) are supported by this I can remove one of my support frame beams to get better access to the sills and a section of the boot floor.
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
13th Nov 2020 11:57 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 352
I have also decided that putting rough parts back on the chassis is a waste of time. So started a refurbishment programe.
Started with the rear suspension uprights. Apart from the rust the hand brake back plates were knackered.
So I pressed out the bearings with a slightly iffy press set up:
Then blasted the upright before painting:
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
14th Nov 2020 11:18 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4870
Key the new backplates and spray the them with a quality coating, otherwise they will start rusting within 18 months. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
15th Nov 2020 12:50 am
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 352
PROFSR G,
Thanks for the tip. Is that with non genuine back plates? Not seen genuine ones advertised, so they either don't make them or are ridiculously priced!
ASeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
15th Nov 2020 10:23 am
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20782
Aftermarket plates are available. Much the same quality as genuine, from what I've seen My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4870
As above^^^ there's not a lot between LR and aftermarket backplates, but LR are more expensive at between £60 & £80 depending on vendor. Advanced do them for around £36 + vat, Britpart I think are in the £40's somewhere and there's some real quality out there for around £20.
The metal is thin whichever you buy and they will rust if you don't coat them.
Here's the part numbers, R/H LR048810 LR048812 L/H.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
15th Nov 2020 3:25 pm
LIAMMCL
Member Since: 27 Aug 2013
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 409
I have one genuine and one pattern backplate, I didn't notice any difference in fit or quality.
16th Nov 2020 12:15 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 352
Thanks for the back plate guidance! Appreciated.Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
16th Nov 2020 8:51 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13854
Hi
Great to see the build progressing
Was on ebay and used @prof g part numbers and see these pair for sale , just says OE quality
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 352
Well made a start on the diffs. I had a whine, so checked the oil when I drained them. Both OK. So I guessed it was the front diff and stripped it.
Carrier bearings looked fine. So stripped the rear and found the small carrier bearing suffering from 'distress'.
Rear Diff:
Dodgy carrier bearing removal:
And the inner race of the offending bearing:
For future info the total preload on the rear diff was 0.58 NM per strip down. A bit low in my view, but there is no data in the LR manual.
I tried to measure backlash, but the worn carrier bearing meant that the preload on the carrier was non existent, so I couldn't feel the backlash.
Front diff:
Total preload before strip was 1.29 Nm.
Back lash was 0.004" at the pinion flange. I need to measure up the ring gear average diameter and pro rate for the smaller diameter of the pinion flange:
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
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