Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 355
Rusty boot floor / Body removal
Thought I would post up my attempt at sorting some pretty poor paintwork under the rear 1/2 of my body on my 08 plate manual Disco 3.
Ideally wanted another 90, but the boss vetoed that and stated that it must have family car potential. So I bought the most cost effective manual, non sunroof Disco 3 I could find. I knew it could have been a bit better underneath but the budget didn't stretch to a better car. I have had the car for 3 years now and its been pretty reliable and I do all my own maintenance.
Apart from family holidays, carting kids about, commuting to Aberdeen, etc, the car gets used at the local LR club for tyros. I also did Mudmaster competing against the army in it. It now has nice tree scratches down either side.... It goes surprisingly well off road. Until it doesn't, then the immense weight of the thing is immediately obvious.
So the master plan was to lift the body off and tackle the boot floor rust so that it doesn't end up as scrap in a couple of years.
After some asking around it became clear that lifting off the body was the only way to go. It also became clear that this was a DIY job as to pay some one to this properly would be ruinous in terms of time.
So I spent quite a while thinking up a plan while driving to work (Falkirk to Aberdeen on a Monday morning). Along came corona virus and I decided that is was a superb lock down project. So while the idiots were buying loo roll on the last Friday before lockdown I bought steel.
I've actually now got the body off, but though that writing up how I did it would be of potential interest.
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
7th Jul 2020 11:53 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4929
Everyone loves a good story, especially one with pictures
As for the repairs, and since you have the body separated, now is a good time to look at those other potential issues which may need attention in the near future . For example, how's the clutch and suspension components? Engine rear hpfp belt, Exhaust system, Turbo hoses and oil feed pipe, Inner sills, etc,etc.
Like you, and as a result of lockdown, I have just had my own one divorced from the chassis and the parts list grew exponentially to a tad over £3,500
In my case a complete new clutch and ancillary components, new cam chains, tensioners and all seals. New oil & water pumps, timing belt kits, glow plugs, crankcase breather, all gaskets except heads, and exhaust fasteners. New front and rear upper and lower suspension arms and all bolts, Calipers, discs, brake pipes, and on and on it went with chassis & U/body clean up and paint before I reacquired a brain
There comes a point where you have to say STOP! and that point is different for everyone, but I hope this gives you an idea of what you might consider if it doesn't scare you first yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
8th Jul 2020 12:57 am
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 355
So the plan was:
1/. release body
2/. jack up body with 4 x transit van scissor jacks with wooden chocks until beam could be passed between the chassis and body
3/. Jack beams up.
Really just a fancier version of a friends Disco 2 chassis swop that involved big wooden beams, oil barrels and a small hydraulic jack.
So lots of steel chopping, drilling and a little bit of milling:
Click image to enlarge
Gave me:
Only thing left to do was park the disco in the middle of it and start jacking!
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
9th Jul 2020 12:04 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4929
What the f@xk You're a brave man, are you addicted to Iron Brew?
Edit: Have you actually used this set up yet? If you don't mind I would advise against it especially on grass. If it buckles while you are working on it you're dead!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
9th Jul 2020 12:31 am
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 355
PROFSR G,
Yes I have used it! Not on the grass - that was just a test build. Caused some consternation with the neighbors - 'what is it?'.
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
9th Jul 2020 8:14 am
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 355
PROFSR G wrote:
Everyone loves a good story, especially one with pictures
As for the repairs, and since you have the body separated, now is a good time to look at those other potential issues which may need attention in the near future . For example, how's the clutch and suspension components? Engine rear hpfp belt, Exhaust system, Turbo hoses and oil feed pipe, Inner sills, etc,etc.
Like you, and as a result of lockdown, I have just had my own one divorced from the chassis and the parts list grew exponentially to a tad over £3,500
In my case a complete new clutch and ancillary components, new cam chains, tensioners and all seals. New oil & water pumps, timing belt kits, glow plugs, crankcase breather, all gaskets except heads, and exhaust fasteners. New front and rear upper and lower suspension arms and all bolts, Calipers, discs, brake pipes, and on and on it went with chassis & U/body clean up and paint before I reacquired a brain
There comes a point where you have to say STOP! and that point is different for everyone, but I hope this gives you an idea of what you might consider if it doesn't scare you first
Time will tell what my costs are. Hoping that doing it all my self I will keep costs down.Series one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
9th Jul 2020 11:27 pm
Breg90
Member Since: 04 Feb 2017
Location: Falkirk
Posts: 355
So lifting the body step one - release everything. So my sources of data were:
1/. Disco Mikey's write up
2/. the LR 'how to lift the body section TOPIC
After a while I realised that Disco Mikeys write up is detailed in some area's, not so in others. The body removal LR write up was clearly for a left hand drive auto, I have right hand drive manual. Not insurmountable, but I spent some time on it, took pictures and did a write up to follow in reverse.
Jacking:
4 of transit van jacks at each sill and off I went using chunks of sleepers as chocks/safety backup. Discovered that to do this with jacks you need to remove the air reservoir and compressor. Then found the transit jacks fouled with the front chassis outriggers, so swopped to 2 x disco 1 bottle jacks at the front. Some how seem to have lost these pictures. But once I could get the beams under the body it easily lifted up.
Then pulled the chassis out using a chain blocks against the wife car:
Click image to enlarge
Mind the handbrake isn't still on, other wise you will pull the car towards the Disco 3 .....
Finally I ended up with:
AdrianSeries one 1949 - in bits, chassis is strapped to the ceiling in my garage (beside the canoe)
LR 90 - In bits
Disco 3 - currently in bits
9th Jul 2020 11:51 pm
Russell
Member Since: 24 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
Looking good, well done but stay safe with thatMY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
MY15 D4 HSE Kaikoura Stone
MY12 D4 HSE Nara Bronze Sold and gone
MY11 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey Sold and gone
D3 S spec Silver Sold and gone
Tow bar, full length roof bars, side steps, tow bar storage unit, surround camers.
D4 camera club
10th Jul 2020 12:51 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4929
Breg90 wrote:
So lifting the body step one - release everything. So my sources of data were:
1/. Disco Mikey's write up
2/. the LR 'how to lift the body section TOPIC
After a while I realised that Disco Mikeys write up is detailed in some area's, not so in others. The body removal LR write up was clearly for a left hand drive auto, I have right hand drive manual. Not insurmountable, but I spent some time on it, took pictures and did a write up to follow in reverse.
Jacking:
4 of transit van jacks at each sill and off I went using chunks of sleepers as chocks/safety backup. Discovered that to do this with jacks you need to remove the air reservoir and compressor. Then found the transit jacks fouled with the front chassis outriggers, so swopped to 2 x disco 1 bottle jacks at the front. Some how seem to have lost these pictures. But once I could get the beams under the body it easily lifted up.
Then pulled the chassis out using a chain blocks against the wife car:
Click image to enlarge
Mind the handbrake isn't still on, other wise you will pull the car towards the Disco 3 .....
Finally I ended up with:
Adrian
I do admire your determination and the work / skill you put in to building the rig, though I still harbour some safety concerns. So now you're well on the way to an overhaul of just about anything you could want. I changed the chains and tensioners and pulled out those damn manifold flaps which allowed a thorough clean up inside.
There is a lot you can do very easily now which will not be the case once the body is back on. Use this time wisely! Best of luck with it, be careful!! And, enjoy the realignment yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
10th Jul 2020 2:21 am
nigethecat
Member Since: 11 Sep 2016
Location: Marnoch
Posts: 4198
Most impressive! The only part I don’t believe is that you are in Falkirk as it's not raining in three of the photos!
An excellent job although I share the Profs safety concerns... look at the brake pipes as well if this hasn’t been mentioned... and also deal with any rust on the rear chassis
More photos as you progress please I want to see the sweets before I get into your windowless van... I'm not stupid!
Corris Grey D4 Commercial SE 2016
Zermatt Sliver 2007 D3 SE manual (gone)
Indus Silver D4 HSE 2015 (gone)
Bonatti Grey D3 HSE 2006 (gone)
White D3 S (LHD) 2007 (gone)
Firenze Red D4 HSE 2014 (gone)
Black RRS 3.6TDV8 2008 (gone)
Rusty Green Defender 110 1997 (gone)
Black FL2 HSE 2013 (gone)
Good topic Relocated to Mid France from N. Wales March 2021
Rovacomlite and IDD/ SSD diagnostics user
Previous Landies
3.9 SE Classic
3.5 V8 Disco
4.6 P38 HSE
L322 Vogue HSE
TD4 ES Freelander 1
10th Jul 2020 12:09 pm
Moo D3 Decade
Member Since: 13 Aug 2010
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 14190
Best new topic in a while. New Defender L663 110 SE (known as Noddy!)
Sold Volvo XC90 R-Design (known as Basil)
Sold - D4 HSE (Known as Gerty)
No longer the Old Buses original owner
231,000 miles and counting
05 S manual owned from March 2005
D4 Face lifted
Still original injectors and turbo
V8 Front brakes
BAS Remap, Allisport Intercooler and deCat
EGRs blanked
T-Max split charge
Hanibal Expeedition rack
Prospeed ladder
Duratrac tyres
IID BT
BAS FBH control
10th Jul 2020 1:26 pm
LT
Member Since: 31 Dec 2005
Location: South West
Posts: 23595
Ingenious and impressive. 2006 D3 HSE (Original & still the best)-GONE
2010 D4 HSE (A bit bling)-GONE
2014 D4 HSE (Almost too bling)-GONE
2015 D4 HSE (A heated what?)-GONE
2016 D4 Landmark (Written Off)-GONE
2016 D4 Landmark (Surely the last!) PD1881 rims-GONE
2017 FFRR SDV8 Autobiography (now semi-retired)
10th Jul 2020 1:58 pm
adam
Member Since: 20 Sep 2005
Location: Home and Happy
Posts: 6917
Amazing and interestingNow Golf GTI PP, 7 speed DSG.
Ex D3 and D4
10th Jul 2020 2:08 pm
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10565
I think if I were doing that on a model with electric seats, I would remove the front elec seats first, as they are very heavy (to lighten the load a bit)
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