Member Since: 18 May 2020
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 9
Snorkel install
Evening all,
Has anyone else struggled with fitting the snorkel bracket on the A pillar? It took me hours to get one hole drilled (near where the two skins are bonded together) but the rest are being even worse. The drill bit just wants to wander, slides around taking excess aluminium top layer with it and when you try to hold the drill where you want it, the bit ends up bending and snapping.
Any advice appreciated
4th Jun 2020 6:11 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13877
Hi
Never fitted one but have u tried some masking tape to help prevent the drill from moving , or a hand push dot punch so don’t push the metal in just a mark for The drill tip to stay in
Plus imagine if u already haven’t , standing on some small steps will help get above where ur drilling
I’ve also in the past put a collar round the drill bit to stop going to far, starting with a small pilot hole then increasing the size bit by bit
a punch helps create a little dimple to keep drill where you want it. tile/glass drills are also good to make a pilot hole..
Dean
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2011 D4 XS - OBD port protection, RLD spare wheel protector, All LED interiors lights, Timed Climate enabled, iiD tool paired.
2011 D4 Landmark - Stolen from same dealer before I paid for it
2011 D4 GS - Stolen whilst at dealer ... All LED interiors lights, DRLs, Spare Wheel protector.
1996 300Tdi - Eaten by tin worms
4th Jun 2020 6:19 pm
ronp
Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15245
As far as I'm aware the A pillar is made of high tensile steel, (if the vehicle rolls and/or ends up on its roof.)
When fitting the Mantec RAI a top trim clip is removed and a (M4?) rivnut fitted (so no need to drill).
You could look to see if you could remove a suitable trim clip to secure the snorkel....... always on the road less travelled 🚧
4th Jun 2020 6:58 pm
pjm-84
Member Since: 04 Oct 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2537
Punch! Small drill then big drill
4th Jun 2020 7:16 pm
adz556
Member Since: 18 May 2020
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 9
Punching on the outer skin was absolutely fine but the steel pillar just seems to be too hard so the drill bit wanders and punching it doesn’t seem to help. Clip whole idea seems like a good idea, might have to make something that uses that
4th Jun 2020 7:38 pm
ronp
Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15245
Pics 16 & 17 show the trim clip hole that's used for the RAI.
Although it shows a 7mm drill, that's just to widen the existing hole.
I didn't bother drilling to widen as I knew it was a tough steel (& you'll need to paint it)
Instead I opted for a rivnut that fitted the existing hole, M4 I think it was.
Click image to enlarge
...... always on the road less travelled 🚧
4th Jun 2020 8:07 pm
adz556
Member Since: 18 May 2020
Location: Cambridge
Posts: 9
I’ve grey primer sprayed everything I’ve done to date to protect it. The snorkel I bought comes with a bracket that mounts between holes 2 and 3 (number 1 being nearest the roof). I will remake their stainless steel bracket in 6mm ally so it picks up hole 2 as well as the hole I have already made.
Thanks all!
4th Jun 2020 8:13 pm
ronp
Member Since: 29 Nov 2006
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 15245
... and obviously you'll need a spacer installed between the pillar and through the trim....... always on the road less travelled 🚧
4th Jun 2020 8:31 pm
pjm-84
Member Since: 04 Oct 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 2537
Good drills bits. Have changed my side steps recently and fuel strap these were a must to drill out snapped bolts.
4th Jun 2020 9:10 pm
SpiderBaby D3 Decade
Member Since: 21 Sep 2007
Location: Liverpool
Posts: 1407
I originally fitted a snorkel to mine - you'll need a good quality cobalt drill bit
IIRC I used a small bit to make a "dimple" with masking tape to prevent wandering as I started
I'd also use a drilling compound like CT-90 to keep things cool.
Patience and tea are your friends....I see no ships........
4th Jun 2020 10:10 pm
DaveT
Member Since: 01 Aug 2005
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 2573
Believe that pillar is made from boron steel. google for suitable bits / techniques, then spend lots of money or center punch & settle down for a long session of patient drilling with a good quality bit !Long succession of Disco's since 2001...
SIII Lightweight - neglected & rusting. Bulkhead, A panels, vent panel & outriggers now disintegrated - Next years project!
4th Jun 2020 11:26 pm
Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1798
Don't drill, make bracket to suit holes already there
5th Jun 2020 4:10 am
G7jtk
Member Since: 03 Jun 2014
Location: Prudhoe
Posts: 854
It’s hard going so just stick with it. Have plenty of drill bits to hand.
5th Jun 2020 7:50 am
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13877
As a side note Saw this ref the body structure
The Body In Detail
The Discovery 3’s body is manufactured like a conventional monocoque. Two monosides are welded to the floor, roof and bulkheads, creating a strong, single structure.
Significant use is made of high-strength steels, while enormously strong boron steel is used for the A- and B-pillars, for added strength in front and side impacts.
The roof structure can accommodate both sunroof and alpine roof. The sunroof is a conventional cassette-type design that opens rearwards, outside the vehicle.
The alpine roof is a large, full width glass roof bonded into the metal structure, above the second and third-row seats.
To preserve strength, it is braced by cross members, invisible from the outside. When neither sunroof nor alpine roof is fitted, the outer roof panel is a single large steel pressing with styled swages to add strength and prevent booming.
The tailgate, doors, bonnet and front wings are separate, bolt-on assemblies. Lightweight magnesium alloy is used for part of the front structure and forms part of the front crash crumple zone.
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