mark george
Member Since: 02 Dec 2012
Location: Ludlow
Posts: 34
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Globetrotter - Replaced the end cap when I overhauled the drier, there was a crack in the old one so I thought id fixed the problem..
thanks for the data on pressured gstuart, i'm not reaching anywhere near, how long should it take to get to full pressure? i'm guessing 10 seconds isn't enough. any way i can keep the compressor running to see if i can get the pressure higher? And should i see the suspension start to move even at the low pressure i have?
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14th Sep 2019 9:05 am |
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sunlion
Member Since: 06 Mar 2013
Location: Kirkland, Wa
Posts: 33
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make sure your air connections to the valve blocks and in the correct positions....I'm suspicious they might be off. Search for a pdf of the Land Rover Factory D3 Air Suspension Description. I'll post it if I can figure out how.
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16th Sep 2019 9:13 pm |
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sunlion
Member Since: 06 Mar 2013
Location: Kirkland, Wa
Posts: 33
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see my thread
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16th Sep 2019 9:15 pm |
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mark george
Member Since: 02 Dec 2012
Location: Ludlow
Posts: 34
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Thanks Sunlion, i'll take another look... As per your thread when I rebuilt the front valve block the seals looked perfect - no different to the new ones I was fitting . I did rebuild the drier first though, refitted to the vehicle and hod the current issues before I even touched the valve block, so my investigations to date have been around the compressor.
I cant get my head round why it would only run for 10 seconds at a time... could it be overheating that quick? I can rest with the IID and then press to raise and it run for another 10 secs each time i do this, I think i can read the temperatures but any idea what they should be?
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17th Sep 2019 8:39 am |
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aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2462
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Try powering the compressor from another power source.
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17th Sep 2019 10:30 am |
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Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1798
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To run the compressor - remove relay, ign on, jumper the two large slots where the relay was and compressor should run
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17th Sep 2019 10:33 am |
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mark george
Member Since: 02 Dec 2012
Location: Ludlow
Posts: 34
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aja4x4, thats a great idea any idea on which terminals are which?
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17th Sep 2019 10:35 am |
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mark george
Member Since: 02 Dec 2012
Location: Ludlow
Posts: 34
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Thanks Globetrotter, I'll give that a go tonight. I guess that if i run it up to the correct pressure i should be able to move the suspension?
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17th Sep 2019 10:37 am |
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aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2462
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I would try the relay bypass first as its easier, if it works you have a faulty relay or control side of the circuit.
If the compressor still doesnt work you have a problem with compressor or the power feed to it.
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17th Sep 2019 10:39 am |
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mark george
Member Since: 02 Dec 2012
Location: Ludlow
Posts: 34
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Brilliant, great advice i'm starting to get the logical train of thought i'll get on it tonight and report back...
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17th Sep 2019 10:42 am |
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Globetrotter448
Member Since: 21 Mar 2017
Location: Londonderry NSW
Posts: 1798
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If jumping it does not work, there is fuse near the relay, originally it was 60 amp but for some reason they changed it to 70 amp. I have had them get hot and burn the fuse connector, cleaning it up and replace the fuse has worked for me.
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17th Sep 2019 10:45 am |
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mark george
Member Since: 02 Dec 2012
Location: Ludlow
Posts: 34
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got it! i'll check the fuse too...
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17th Sep 2019 10:52 am |
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sunlion
Member Since: 06 Mar 2013
Location: Kirkland, Wa
Posts: 33
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Mark, I was having the same problem where the compressor would run for 10 sec then shut off. I went thru my valve blocks again and made sure the plastic bits around the solenoids press together and lock in place. I believe what is happening is the tolerances for air flow thru the solenoids are very small and if pieces are not aligned properly, a no flow high pressure situation develops and the pump shuts itself off. I tested this by removing all the connections including the drier and running the pump and it ran fine. My pump was new so it was unlikely to be bad. That being said, I took apart my old pump and the failure was due to failure of the welds inside from heat. They essentially melted and the pump quit running totally.
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17th Sep 2019 3:07 pm |
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mark george
Member Since: 02 Dec 2012
Location: Ludlow
Posts: 34
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Sunlion, that's interesting and straightforward for me to check. Do you think this mis-alignment could occur within the valve without human intervention? the reason i ask is that the pump has been 'faulting' after a short period for a couple of years, but i was not too bothered as the suspension was fine in normal height, and if i raised it within the first minute it would work fine albeit i'd often get the raising slowly message. It wasn't until the front dropped on a journey home one day, and then over night every night after that, i felt the need to do something about it. When i found the characteristic crack in the drier i thought that was it with the pump, but theoretically it could have been a valve issue all along.. Now though front or back has refused to move since i did the drier!and no difference after overhauling the front valve block so perhaps i have not addressed a misalignment issue?
Now here's a strange thought - on the day of the dropped front end i was bringing the car home after some work on the handbrake. It had been in for rear arms, bushes and brakes (expensive MOT) but afterward was making a clicking noise which I was told turned out to be a corroded handbrake cable bracket. Could something have got damaged at the back that could cause suspension drop at the front??
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17th Sep 2019 4:15 pm |
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aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2462
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Have you checked your sensors, if you have done your wishbones have they been damaged?
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17th Sep 2019 4:22 pm |
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