Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
I think the connectors in question are body to chassis connectors and have been a pain in the arris for some owners. There is a repair kit available but I think all it does is bridge across the connectors so you can always loop out whatever you think is damaged by attaching a jump lead over the connector or damaged area. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
19th Sep 2018 5:38 am
webego
Member Since: 06 May 2015
Location: Bromley
Posts: 331
As this plug carries power and the broken cable is on the battery side of the plug, do I need to disconnect the battery?
19th Sep 2018 3:27 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
I wouldn't bother especially if the car is asleep, but it's your choice. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
19th Sep 2018 3:33 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13875
Narpy wrote:
I think the connectors in question are body to chassis connectors and have been a pain in the arris for some owners. There is a repair kit available but I think all it does is bridge across the connectors so you can always loop out whatever you think is damaged by attaching a jump lead over the connector or damaged area.
Hi
Do people normally cut the connector off and fit a new one plse , just trying to think about those small wires , are they basically joined to the larger wires inside the connector
Thks as always
19th Sep 2018 7:15 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Best advice regarding this is to search the forum.
There a pretty in depth thread detailing everything regarding these connectors somewhere. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
19th Sep 2018 7:25 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4902
A soldered and shrink wrapped bypass or jumper is the usual remedy, as the connectors don't lend themselves to repair easily.yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
19th Sep 2018 7:28 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13875
This guys
It was out of curiosity, Will have a search,
19th Sep 2018 7:35 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Member Since: 06 May 2015
Location: Bromley
Posts: 331
Nice find!
Bad news from me unfortunately. The broken wire on inspection wasn't as broken as it looked in the photo. In fact there were only a few loose strands. Rather than cut the cable, I just melted some solder in there and wrapped it with insulation tape just to see if it made it difference .... it didn't!
Really lost here.
Still getting the following:
C1131-92 (AF) Air supply - Compoonent failure - performance or incorrect operation
C1A20-64 (2E) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir....etc
I can hear the compressor run for a short time then stop when the fault pops up.
Car is on the bump stops now
Been without the car several days now and need to get this sorted. Think I need to call the troops in for someone who really knows what they are doing to come and diagnose this, be it electrical or air pressure/pipes testing etc.
Can anyone suggest the suitable cavalry to call? I'm in Bromley, which is north east Kent (within the M25). Obviously happy and willing to help out in any way I can.
19th Sep 2018 8:23 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13875
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13875
webego wrote:
Nice find!
Bad news from me unfortunately. The broken wire on inspection wasn't as broken as it looked in the photo. In fact there were only a few loose strands. Rather than cut the cable, I just melted some solder in there and wrapped it with insulation tape just to see if it made it difference .... it didn't!
Really lost here.
Still getting the following:
C1131-92 (AF) Air supply - Compoonent failure - performance or incorrect operation
C1A20-64 (2E) Pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir....etc
I can hear the compressor run for a short time then stop when the fault pops up.
Car is on the bump stops now
Been without the car several days now and need to get this sorted. Think I need to call the troops in for someone who really knows what they are doing to come and diagnose this, be it electrical or air pressure/pipes testing etc.
Can anyone suggest the suitable cavalry to call? I'm in Bromley, which is north east Kent (within the M25). Obviously happy and willing to help out in any way I can.
Sorry to hear that
Out of curiosity , with the iid have u looked to see what the live data pressure is of the compressor , ie if there’s an air leak and causing the compressor to over heat and shut down ??
If it helps in any way , if u can drive to me I’m more than happy to go through the entire thing between us , only reason I can’t go anywhere is because I can’t leave my dog on it’s own at the moment as she’s not well
Have plenty of multimeters , air compressor to blow any lines out, pressure gauges to test lines etc , some spare valve blocks , automotive cable, soldering etc etc
After rebuilding mine I got quite good finding leaks etc
I’m only in swanley and more than happy to help where I can , so plse feel free to give me a shout if it may be of any use to u
19th Sep 2018 8:58 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
webego wrote:
I can hear the compressor run for a short time then stop when the fault pops up.
That's exactly what mine did, every time, and it was a wiring fault in the FNS wheel arch. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
19th Sep 2018 9:24 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4902
Is there a current feed to the compressor motor in that wheel arch?yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
19th Sep 2018 9:58 pm
webego
Member Since: 06 May 2015
Location: Bromley
Posts: 331
Yep the blue plug
webego wrote:
C2527-1 is the big Brown/Red wire which powers the compressor
C2527-2 is the big Green/Yellow wire which powers the parking brake
C2527-3 Black/Purple & C2527-4 Black/Orange power the Valve-Corner-Front-RH of the front valve block.
19th Sep 2018 10:36 pm
webego
Member Since: 06 May 2015
Location: Bromley
Posts: 331
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