Member Since: 20 Aug 2021
Location: Norway
Posts: 37
I have the diagram for lr 3 and 4 . I will try to look into that and map it up to see all the differences.
As far as CCF goes. Anybody done This with a Autel unit? Or is Gap the way to go? I have an expensive autel and would hate to need to buy a Gap to change one setting 😂
16th Oct 2022 9:35 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10674
You could refit the D3 lights.
They are much better in the dark and yours have AFS
16th Oct 2022 9:39 am
Kamran
Member Since: 20 Aug 2021
Location: Norway
Posts: 37
Hehe...
The thing is that they just look soooooo much better.
And as far as lights goes , I think I'm covered:
5x 7" in the front. 2 x led bars on the roof pointing forward and 360 lights around the complete rig
But I get what you are saying . I'm tempted to stay with the d3 setup. but I cant unsee the difference and I have purchased all I need.
But I also have a fitting issue. As I have a steel d3 winch bumper to fit But I will manage that if I get this wiring to work.
Raptor lined these puppies yesterday
16th Oct 2022 9:47 am
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2889
Kamran wrote:
Hi Darrind
Thank you for the response . Just to avoid confusion for my part. What Pete linked to was resistors and not Relays. So I guess we are are talking about the same thing. To fix fast blink, need to inline a resistance in the blinker wire .
But you are mentioning a actuall relay to engage a function for the DRL to turn of when I activate side blinkers?
Becuse the DRL seams to work fine ?
Please elaborate as I'm very interested:-)
Hi Kamran,
Yes resistors are needed to stop the fast internal flashing of the indicator lamp on the dashboard, as the car will think the bulb has blown due to the lower resistance it measures in the circuit if LED is fitted in place of a conventional bulb.
Relays are are said to be needed to switch the feed to the low brightness DRL circuit that is fed from the sidelight feed when the side or main lights are turned on, and cut power to pin 8. This is because the feeling is you cannot have power to the low power pin, and pin 8 at the same time. From your picture showing your headlight operating, you are only feeding power to the low output circuit of the drl, and don’t have power to pin 8 yet. However I am outside on my phone so could be mistaken.Must stop buying shiny toys....
16th Oct 2022 10:01 am
Kamran
Member Since: 20 Aug 2021
Location: Norway
Posts: 37
]
Pete K wrote:
I don’t know if you will get two brightness when in a D3. I guess that is why you need that relay above and the point of this thread
Member Since: 20 Aug 2021
Location: Norway
Posts: 37
darrind wrote:
Kamran wrote:
Hi Darrind
Thank you for the response . Just to avoid confusion for my part. What Pete linked to was resistors and not Relays. So I guess we are are talking about the same thing. To fix fast blink, need to inline a resistance in the blinker wire .
But you are mentioning a actuall relay to engage a function for the DRL to turn of when I activate side blinkers?
Becuse the DRL seams to work fine ?
Please elaborate as I'm very interested:-)
Hi Kamran,
Yes resistors are needed to stop the fast internal flashing of the indicator lamp on the dashboard, as the car will think the bulb has blown due to the lower resistance it measures in the circuit if LED is fitted in place of a conventional bulb.
Relays are are said to be needed to switch the feed to the low brightness DRL circuit that is fed from the sidelight feed when the side or main lights are turned on, and cut power to pin 8. This is because the feeling is you cannot have power to the low power pin, and pin 8 at the same time. From your picture showing your headlight operating, you are only feeding power to the low output circuit of the drl, and don’t have power to pin 8 yet. However I am outside on my phone so could be mistaken.
Aha! So what you are saying is that I only have the low illumination working on my car at the moment and should put a relay in to switch 12v into pin 8 to get the high illumination DRL when the main lights come on? or the main light and the side blinkers ?
Sorry for my stupid question! if I got the above right, under what conditions do the DRL supposed to illuminate on the highest setting ?
Thank you guys for all the support!
16th Oct 2022 10:13 am
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2889
Hi you haven’t asked stupid questions - DONT WORRY!
So the DRL should come on at its highest level when a pos supply goes to pin 8 on a D4 and this is when no other lights are on but the ignition is on.
The pictures you showed are I’m guessing with side lights on and the second picture is with dipped main lights on.
The other question you haven’t asked yet is how to get the high beam to light up (flash) with no headlights turned on when you pull the stalk back, on a D4 this needs the CMF changed with an iid tool and an extra software fromGAP but on a D3 will need a relay as it seems there is no feed for it otherwiseMust stop buying shiny toys....
16th Oct 2022 10:32 am
Kamran
Member Since: 20 Aug 2021
Location: Norway
Posts: 37
Thank you for the support.
When you refer to side light ... what are you referring to ? Because I dont have american side markers. Are you referring to the side blinkers?
On one picture I have the car in park light position. and on the other I have it on auto with normal running lights .
And the DRL seams to work but possibly only in the low setting.
What you are saying is that pin 8 provides higher illumination and that this only accrues on a D4 when ignition is on and no other lights ( so parking lights ?)
When you refer to the high beam. Mine seams to work ? I have high and low :
Low/running:
Click image to enlarge
High beam:
Click image to enlarge
16th Oct 2022 11:11 am
Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10674
I think DRLs working in bright.
When you have your lights off, you can’t flash people
16th Oct 2022 11:32 am
darrind
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: In A World of My Own!
Posts: 2889
Hi
Just for clarification based on the D3 Light switch
Position 0 - Off - If the D3 is fitted with correctly wired D4 Facelift lights fitted with DRLs the DRLs are illuminated at their highest setting as they are being fed with live power on pin 8 and will always come on as soon as the key is in the ignition and the ignition is turned in any position that feeds power to the car. If no power is fed to pin 8 on the lights nothing will be illuminated on the Facelift headlights
Position 1 - Side Lights - parking lights only (DRL in low output if D3 lights are replaced with D4 lights with DRLs) in the UK this means the DRLs will go to low output and the rear lights on the car will also illuminate
Position 2 - Dipped Beam/Main beam - the main Xenon light units will illuminate either on Dipped or High Beam depending on indicator stalk position - parking lights will also illuminate (DRL in low output if D3 lights are replaced with D4 lights with DRLs) in the UK this means the DRLs will go to low output and the rear lights on the car will also illuminate
Position 3 - Auto lights (if fitted) light sensor decides what it wants the Illumination to do.
Its difficult to see in a Video as the DRLs actually strobe on and off in pulses so fast that the eye doesn't notice but a camera will normally show a flickering effect - tried to minimise it on this video but you can still see it -
20 seconds in the key is aftive so the DRLs go onto high,
26 seconds in I turn the light switch to position 1 so the DRLs drop into low mode (you see the brightness drop but also the strobing effect as the cycle time slows down on the LEDs) You cant see this with your eye just the camera catches it
30 seconds in I turn the switch to position 2 the drls stay on low output and the Xenon unit illuminates
42 seconds in i turn off the lights by returning the switch to position 0 and DRLs go back to bright output
DRLs are for illumination in daylight hence the video showing the difference in daylight - at night everything will look OKMust stop buying shiny toys....
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But I will manage that if I get this wiring to work.
