Well, the yellow suspension light illuminated and my compressor got silent last week so the 3 would not rise any longer. Fortunately, in my fooling around trying to figure out what the problem was, I only dropped the 3 to access height so was able to drive around until I got it to the dealer. Fortunately the local dealer had a new compressor, part # LR015303 in stock, so the replacement process was only painful to the wallet.
The picture below is the crankcase area of the removed part # RQG500060 compressor. I removed the crankshaft area end plate and inside was the broken con rod; the piston was still in the cylinder and moved freely - removed it from the bottom.
My thinking is that the broken con rod was a secondary failure; the real problem was the screw let go that bolts the con rod bearing to the eccentric. In the picture one can perhaps see rounded and worn threads - that I think was the initial problem - the screw loosened, pulled out, and then the con rod broke.
In my gallery, are more pictures.
I assume that repair parts such as con rods are not really available anywhere? If so, then maybe I would have a spare unit to carry with me on trips.
2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
15th Jun 2010 4:44 pm
moroco
Member Since: 07 Jun 2011
Location: belfort
Posts: 10
bonjour
peut tu m'aider s'il te plait
j'ai lu quelque un de tes post
si j'ai bien compris les references de compresseur suivante sont les memes
LR015303 et RQG500060
j'ai un range rover sport de 2005 avec un compresseur RQG500060 est ce que je peut mettre un LR015303
merci d'avance
20th Jun 2011 10:00 pm
moroco
Member Since: 07 Jun 2011
Location: belfort
Posts: 10
hello
can you help me please!
I read about one of your post
I understand the compressor following references are the same
LR015303 and RQG500060
I have a 2005 range rover sport with a compressor RQG500060 is what I can put a LR015303
Yes, per the link below to my files on disco3, the old compressor that came out of my LR3 was part number RQG500060, the same as on your RRS; the new compressor that replaced it is now part number LR015303.
LR015303 is the new compressor that is installed on the D4 and RRS as well as being the replacement for all the previous compressors to date. The link below shows the LR015303 as the replacement part number for your 2005 Range Rover Sport.
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/category/sear...h+the+shop2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
21st Jun 2011 1:53 am
moroco
Member Since: 07 Jun 2011
Location: belfort
Posts: 10
hello
thank you for your reply
you think I change I try full or just VUB504700 and JPO500010
here are the default C1A13-64 and U0421-94
I think I would just change the complete compressor, particularly if it is the original compressor or a compressor that is more than two years old.
The links below discuss problems related to the wires that connect between the compressor and the computer. The problem could be the wires, but those are very difficult to find.
If you are doing the work yourself, it is cheaper to buy and install a new compressor first as even if that does not solve the problem, you will at least have the newest compressor that should then be good for five years.
If you just replace a piece of the compressor such as the air drier to the valves, and those pieces do not change anything, you could still have a compressor problem or maybe it is the wiring.
To replace parts, you have to remove the compressor, and then reinstall, so it is better and faster to just install a totally new compressor.
http://disco3.co.uk/forum/topic45185.html2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
21st Jun 2011 2:46 pm
ktm_525
Member Since: 23 Apr 2010
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 141
I have a compressor for parts down in Calgary. I am with you on replacing the whole unit. You can find brand new ones on Ebay for just over $500. At less than half of what the local dealer is charging it is worth having a new one on the shelf as a spare.
With only two bolts on the compressor bracket (and holding so far) a compressor replacement is no more difficult than an oil change. Less than an hour of labour and a couple of beers.
21st Jun 2011 4:19 pm
moroco
Member Since: 07 Jun 2011
Location: belfort
Posts: 10
good, so I took her LR015303 and apparently is equivalent to both ref and RQG500060 LR020590
The good news is Land Rover keeps trying to get it right. The latest compressor is pretty good and may last at least the four years thru the warranty period of the D4 vehicles.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
21st Jun 2011 5:26 pm
moroco
Member Since: 07 Jun 2011
Location: belfort
Posts: 10
:Dhello
I will recover the compressor to 17.30 at the post office
pending small question
I removed the fuse 60A since Tuesday, not to fail.
I noticed on the dashboard the green bar is no longer aligned.
Does it mean that there is a leak somewhere.
knowing that before removing the fuse everything was aligned
for the photo, the vehicle was parked on the dish.
Yes, most probably there is a slow leak somewhere. Slow leaks are not unusual but per your jpg, I note that all four corners are dropping. When the systems are new, for the most part, air remains in the system for quite a while, a few weeks, at least.
If only one corner was down, that would mean there is probably a slow leak in the air spring on that corner, or the piping between the air spring and the block valve, or within the block valve.
Since all four corners are showing as down, that suggests a leak that is common to all four corners - in other words, in the compressor or the block valve near the compressor.
In theory, if the front and rear block valves are holding, regardless of the condition of the compressor, when the power is off, there should be no air released.
I note however that you said you removed the 60 amp fuseable link that provides power to the air compressor and hence the compressor exhaust valve.
I presume however, that fuse F26E, the 20 amp that powers the air suspension computer was still in the circuit.
If so, that would allow the front, rear, and centre block valves to remain energized so it is possible the block valves did open and allow air pressure to feed to the compressor. Then perhaps the air slowly leaked out thru the compressor. If so, it may be that the compressor problem would be fixed by merely installing the valve repair kit, JPO500010, as that would most likely be where the leak is.
If so, after you install the new compressor and if all is working, then you could order the valve repair kit, JPO500010, install it in the old compressor, and hence you would have a spare compressor to take on trips with you. Regardless, installing an all new compressor is the best first attempt.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
23rd Jun 2011 3:52 pm
moroco
Member Since: 07 Jun 2011
Location: belfort
Posts: 10
hello
So I just changed the compressor.
(1 / 2 hour of work thanks to your advice and link)
I hear the little "flop" in demarage the compressor, I could not hear before.
Over the default set up his down without problem.
Well if tomorrow morning, your RRS is still sitting at the correct height, then that means there are no other leaks to look for so you have done very well.
If it drops, all that means is that there is a small leak somewhere but since you solved the compressor problem, you would no doubt beable to find a leak.
I looked at your filter pictures; they are appreciated. You can now purchase a new air filter and you will effectively now have a spare pump.
If there are signs of a leak, just remove the F26E fuse first. That will shut down all the automatic venting, (automatic levelling), that can occur overnight. It looks like you park on a bit of a sloped road so that can fool the system into thinking the vehicle is not level and cause it to vent, except that it can never get level. If you have not had the problem in the past, you should not suddenly have it now.
The noise you heard when the compressor stopped is normal. In English, I call it a "fart", and I think it is the compressor unloading, (releasing compressed air), so that when it starts up next time, it starts up under no load.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
23rd Jun 2011 9:49 pm
Trailmapper
Member Since: 15 Jul 2017
Location: Winnipeg
Posts: 2
Resurrecting a post from the past, hoping bbyer you may have the piston from his connecting rod failure air compressor, i just damaged my piston doing a seal replacement and am looking for a used replacement, any chance you still have and will sell it to a fellow canadian:).
If anyone else has a parts compressor or piston for sale let me know.
I know the con rod is broken, but the piston is probably OK - well I guess better than yours.
I will let you know tomorrow, probably by PM.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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bonjour
