Oil pump change...how to open the Crankshaft pulley?
Hi everybody!
I'm in the middle of changing my oil pump. Pinned the camshaft wheels and slackened the cam belt.
Now I failing by opening the crank shaft bolt and releasing the pulley to get trough to the oil pump.
I modified my 36mm spanner by drilling a hole in it to make it a blocking tool.
But it didn't work out.
I know from the workshop manual and flacks how to that the bolt is tightened 100 Nm plus a quarter turn. And to be be right threaded.
So I wanted to ask the almighty community for their tipps n tricks to get this done.
I don't have the Crankshaft securing pin on already because of darkness coming and I didn't have enough light to get the starter out yet.
Is it ok, to block the Crankshaft with this tool and than try with full force try to lever open then bolt?
Is making a blocking tool like in flacks how to the only way?TDV6MY07-automatic-LHD-noDPF-iidbt-ffrrMod
11th Mar 2017 8:14 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
My largest 3/4" drive ratchet next to my smallest breaker bar:
Click image to enlarge
I'm not going to comment on the homemade locking tools, but the crank bolt is seriously tight, only my massive 3/4" drive will do the job.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
You need to use the flywheel locking tool as its the only way to make sure you do not move the crank, that tool you mention has long gone in the scrap bin.
You will need a large bar or something like what Robbie has posted, I have the same ratchet as the one shown by Robbie and even then its still tight to slacken off the crank bolt.
Flack
11th Mar 2017 8:34 pm
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2294
You MUST lock the crankshaft, I took the starter off, and used a 'Laser 4273' kit locking pin in the drive plate (which fitted perfectly), that is plenty strong enough, you certainly don't need the extortionate LR locking tool which engages with the starter ring. I also found that heating the pulley bolt a little with a plumbers blow torch made the bolt quite easy to undo, of course you don't do that when doing the new one up to the correct torque + 90 degrees. D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
Last edited by DN on 11th Mar 2017 11:06 pm. Edited 7 times in total
11th Mar 2017 8:35 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20727
1/2" breaker bar with a jack handle over the end of it My D3 Build Thread
I just felt like asking, cause didn't felt like ruining something with a stupid mistake.
Thought 've read a lot about it, so was wundering why I didn't read statments about I have to "be with the force"
Would invite You all for having a beer, if You were hear now!
Cheers
MarkusTDV6MY07-automatic-LHD-noDPF-iidbt-ffrrMod
11th Mar 2017 9:15 pm
jp1
Member Since: 29 Jan 2020
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 17
Disco_Mikey wrote:
1/2" breaker bar with a jack handle over the end of it
Just wanted to say thanks, this worked a treat for me today trying to get crank bolt undone on my 06 L320
Last edited by jp1 on 17th Jan 2022 12:42 pm. Edited 1 time in total
16th Jan 2022 9:35 pm
Juan Jose
Member Since: 21 Jan 2018
Location: Madrid
Posts: 32
Hello:
For a long time the general recommendation is to change the oil pump when changing the belts
The query is: in which case is it necessary to change the crankshaft pulley?
Thanks
17th Jan 2022 1:08 am
DN D3 Decade
Member Since: 24 Jun 2006
Location: W.London.
Posts: 2294
No need to change the crankshaft pulley ( unless it is worn or damaged), but the front oil seal, and the critical securing bolt that clamps the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft, must be replaced ( can only be used once). D3 owned from new, P017 brake recall, BAS FBHIC, new FBH, LR013487 oil pump, new water pump. RRS front lower suspension arms. New suspension compressor/ relay. New Denso alternator. CuNifer rear brake pipes. New GKN rear propshaft. New HPFP belt & tensioner. New A/C Condenser.NO WARRANTY for many many years.
17th Jan 2022 1:16 am
ronald.soak
Member Since: 29 Apr 2008
Location: London
Posts: 516
My post edited. Almost word for word as DN posted 4 minutes earlier.
17th Jan 2022 1:20 am
Juan Jose
Member Since: 21 Jan 2018
Location: Madrid
Posts: 32
Hello:
Ok,
For a 2.7 engine on D4, 2010 should have M14 or M16 bolt?
Thanks
17th Jan 2022 3:14 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4647
It "should" be an M16 from 2009> but better to check it. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
