Member Since: 27 Aug 2015
Location: Colchester
Posts: 697
I only ask as they make a major deal about it on their site. Maybe they do it as a matter of course?
22nd Feb 2017 9:40 pm
darrener
Member Since: 07 Jul 2016
Location: Western Isles
Posts: 17
Kwik Fit did it for me
I took my D3 which with its DSC kicking in on every other bend to KF. The four wheel alignment solved the problem. They adjusted toe front and rear, but not caster for £75
22nd Feb 2017 9:59 pm
RBP
Member Since: 29 Aug 2012
Location: N Yorks
Posts: 1936
Ent wrote:
I then asked him if he'd done one before" done loads" he said. I handed over the keys and proceeded to get a brew from the free vend all the time looking at my motor on the wheel alignment ramp. Not 10 minutes later the "technician" starts taking the kit off all four wheels. I said to the manager that it mustn't have been that far out then "it was miles out, not even in the calibration zones" mmmm I think. What about the back I said, he hasn't touched them? "oh you want the backs doing as well?" You couldn't write it could you.
Car went back on the ramp and he had another go. Manager took it for a spin and proclaim everything was "spot on". I jumped in drove it round the block and brought it straight back as the steering wheel was 30 degrees out and the car was crabbing down the road like a good 'un. I said to him you can have one last go but if it's not right I'll be having a refund. I did ask again about his experience with a D4 and he again said the "technician" knew what he was doing. It was at that point I asked him why he hadn't clamped the wheel at the 12 o'clock position before any adjustments were made? After a lot of blushing and waffling another lad was brought in to the pantomime who did clamp the steering wheel and started the adjustments. Got the print out of the alignment and whilst the toe adjustment wasn't bad the caster and camber were all over the place. When I asked him why he hadn't sorted them his reply was priceless-"can't do castor or camber sir"
Ent, I had a similar experience at the same establishment. Spoke to Flack and he said it takes a bit of effort to make some adjustments so they reckon they can't do it
They got it fairly near though & tyres lasted 20000 miles at least (Pirellis) which on a D3 is acceptable. Drove spot on too so wasn't too hacked off on reflection.
22nd Feb 2017 10:09 pm
trailhound
Member Since: 27 Aug 2015
Location: Colchester
Posts: 697
JPW wrote:
Where in Essex are you?
I've used this place recently https://www.tyre-smart.com in Witham (after some bad experiences elsewhere).
They have the most up to date Hunter kit and they took great care to get everything right. I was very impressed.
Paul
Just used these guys. Very professional and keen for me to view what was going on. Adjusted camber and caster (45 minutes on the ramp - 2 blokes most of the time) and re-calibrated the steering angle sensor for me. Very impressed. I had put the car in Tight Tolerance Mode before taking it, the guy new what this was and said he believed his kit could do that too, but nobody had ever asked. No charge if no adjustment required. Will definitely use again.
18th Apr 2017 4:58 pm
markagj
Member Since: 03 Dec 2015
Location: Wrexham
Posts: 175
What is tight tolerance mode please?
I had my lower wishbones replaced last August followed by Hunter 4 wheel alignment but I have recently found wear on the inside of the two front tyres, so I took it back for a check and was told that the alignment was still well within tolerance...so I'm not quite sure what the the problem may be.I certainly didn't put it tight tolerance mode before the alignment was done.Discovery 4 HSE SDV6
Land Rover series 3 2.5 Petrol
18th Apr 2017 7:26 pm
JMack
Member Since: 02 Aug 2014
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1517
RTFM.
IID Tool Manual says:
The tight tolerance mode should only be used when a wheel alignment
is performed. Leaving the EAS ECU permanently in this mode can lead to premature failing of components.
"This will set the EAS ECU into tight or normal tolerance mode. In normal tolerance mode, the EAS ECU
will adjust a corner when it’s +/- 10 mm or higher than the desired height. For example, if the corner is
at +9 mm, it will not correct the height. If the corner is at +11 mm, the EAS ECU will make adjustments.
In tight tolerance mode, a tolerance of +/- 3 mm is used."
You don't need to set it to tight tolerances, as long as a door is left open then the suspension wont adjust during the alignment anyway.
19th Apr 2017 7:21 pm
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1144
Quote:
You don't need to set it to tight tolerances, as long as a door is left open then the suspension wont adjust during the alignment anyway.
So, how do you know that the suspension is at the correct height before you open the door?
It can easily be out if it isn't in tight tolerance mode.
I have done lots of wheel alignments and there is a major difference in camber and toe at even a slightly different height.
Regards
Steve
19th Apr 2017 8:38 pm
JMack
Member Since: 02 Aug 2014
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1517
Presumably it will be settled and at the right height after it is on the ramp and the driver is out.
Close the door to allow it to do its thing then open it again to prevent it moving during adjustment.
Or a I missing something?
19th Apr 2017 10:12 pm
SteveNorman
Member Since: 14 Oct 2005
Location: Somerset
Posts: 1144
You could be up to 10mm out in standard setting.
You then leave the door open, which freezes any adjustment, thus preventing the system from correcting an even further discrepancy, so you then could be even further out.
Why not just put it in tight tolerance mode and be as accurate as possible?
To adjust rear camber and toe, and front castor, camber and toe takes quite a while if all need adjusting, so the few seconds it takes to put in tight tolerance seems a small price to pay.
Also it's a good idea to drive the car a short distance on the road if it has been jacked up, freeing off track rods, or having tyres done, as it then settles the suspension, before the alignment.
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