Member Since: 19 Feb 2017
Location: NewYork
Posts: 14
HEEEEELP!! lr3 suspension down, compressor not operating
I am sure this was covered before, but Im too frustrated to search.. please forgive me.
So since I got it used w. 100k miles 5 months ago, it has had the 'special programs not avail, normal height only' condition. I heard it self level before, and also heard compressor pump up.
Now it's all the way down, and throws codes:
C1131 Air supply
U0416 'invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module'
C1A20 'pressure increases too slowly while filling reservoir'
and another I cant seem to find now.. also related Im sure.
The compressor doesnt seem to be running or even trying to (no humming or heat). There's voltage on the main supply line (14.5V).
the fuses for the air suspension are all good. the main 20A has the voltage, but the 5A fuse 3 has no voltage, even w. engine running.
please help with ideas??? Thanks!
Jan
19th Feb 2017 9:33 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13635
Member Since: 22 Apr 2012
Location: Rome
Posts: 2288
Check the 60A fuse in the battery tray- Easy-Lift suspension module 4.0
- GoodWinch 9500 lb
- Full underbody protections
- Tree/Rock sidebars
- Prospeed roofrack & ladder
- Compressor guard
- Raised Air Intake
- Driving lights (2+4)
- 50 mm Waffle boards
- Altox Heater control
- Overland Rooftop Tent
- Rear seats entertainment
- Front & Rear camera
- GVIF
- Removable tow bar
- Cubby box fridge
- BFG KO2 265/65R17
- iidTool BT
20th Feb 2017 12:29 pm
searover83
Member Since: 19 Feb 2017
Location: NewYork
Posts: 14
Thank you gents .. great help in that link.
But I do have voltage at the main power connector to the compressor. But I am not sure 100% that it means it should be running, or there are otehr conditions/signals which are carried on the lower gauge wires to the compressor, or internal sensor.. that prevent it from running. Does anyone know for SURE?
Another reason Im not ready to say it's the compressor, is that I dont hear it hum, or click/grind, or smell/heatup like it's trying to run...
I kinda still think there's a failed sensor somewhere , or a bad connection.
Again.. if someone can tell me 100% that the power on the main connector means the compressor should be running.. good enough for me , and Ill go swap out the unit...
Thanks
Jan
20th Feb 2017 4:05 pm
trainmanone
Member Since: 19 Dec 2014
Location: stockport
Posts: 366
disconnect both electrical connectors to the compressor and put 12v to the compressor connector(power) if motor is ok it will run
20th Feb 2017 4:16 pm
searover83
Member Since: 19 Feb 2017
Location: NewYork
Posts: 14
There IS 14V on the power to the compressor and it does not run.
So it's either bad (but then I'd expect to hear/smell/feel it trying to run.. or blow fuses), or there's a signal on the 2nd connector that is blocking it?
So if it runs if I disconnect the signals, I can chase the sensor thats blocking it.. right?
good idea. thx
20th Feb 2017 4:51 pm
gstuart
Member Since: 21 Oct 2016
Location: kent
Posts: 13635
just looked
check fuses , if u haven't already
F3 - 5 Amp
F26 - 20 Amp
FL10- fusible link 60 Amp
As mentioned if all ok, put a 12 vdc direct supply to the compressor and that will 100% tell u if it's at fault or not
saving u in trying to trace wires , removing panels etc , if the compressor is at fault
20th Feb 2017 5:02 pm
JMack
Member Since: 02 Aug 2014
Location: Edinburgh
Posts: 1517
searover83 wrote:
There IS 14V on the power to the compressor and it does not run.
Is the Earth ok?
Check for voltage on the Earth terminal on the compressor, if there is it would indicate a bad Earth after the compressor. If not then compressor motor sounds bad, check the continuity of the windings on the motor.
20th Feb 2017 5:27 pm
trainmanone
Member Since: 19 Dec 2014
Location: stockport
Posts: 366
if 12 v direct to compressor and still wont run buy a new compressor as motor kaput
ask me how I know lol
20th Feb 2017 5:47 pm
searover83
Member Since: 19 Feb 2017
Location: NewYork
Posts: 14
How?
20th Feb 2017 5:58 pm
trainmanone
Member Since: 19 Dec 2014
Location: stockport
Posts: 366
I had same problem last august even though id put a brand new Dunlop one on in the February, looked at everything else until my mate said to make sure the compressor was actually running by 12v direct to compressor off a spare battery.......... result another compressor required as motor on compressor kaput .
how I did it was disconnect both electrical connectors then put 12 v to the connector with the two thicker cables that go to compressor ,if it runs compressor is ok but I recon it wont so get a new one
20th Feb 2017 6:06 pm
searover83
Member Since: 19 Feb 2017
Location: NewYork
Posts: 14
OK. indeed, the motor is dead. One of the 4 brushes burned out, burnt off the lead, and even burned the little pcb base under it.. so no chance repairing it. And the brushes were actually had 80% meat left on them. So .. I dunno.. disturbing. What's also disturbing, is that the assembly was attached with the 2 bottom bolts, not 3, so was the bottom plastic cover. So this was probably a replacement unit, and whoever replaced it , didnt feel like messing with the 3rd bolts. So I expect I will need to look for some air leaks after I install the replacement unit.
I understand that if I put back a Hitachi , I wont need to 'recalibrate', but AMK will need 'recalibration', whatever that actually means.. again, disturbing, if this will be a 3rd unit..
$329.59.. meh.. a shame, for such a stupid failure...
Thanks all for help
20th Feb 2017 8:21 pm
searover83
Member Since: 19 Feb 2017
Location: NewYork
Posts: 14
here...[/img]
20th Feb 2017 8:28 pm
searover83
Member Since: 19 Feb 2017
Location: NewYork
Posts: 14
20th Feb 2017 8:29 pm
trainmanone
Member Since: 19 Dec 2014
Location: stockport
Posts: 366
well if you fit amk you will need to reflash the ecu,not recalibrate the suspention , if hitachi or Dunlop no need to do anything . buy use new captive nuts and new bolts.
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