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Anderson plug wiring to battery?
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Mikeyb
 


Member Since: 08 Nov 2016
Location: Maldon, Essex
Posts: 515

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3

Having had a recent misfortune with my Disco throwing a major wobbly ant the car detailers - keys out, doors locked, hazards, heater, radio etc all on until battery flat.... Confused

With emergency manual door lock not playing ball, after some concerted forum browsing, the day was saved by sticking 12v up the caravan accessory socket. Once the car had sat in the heated workshop overnight, the doors popped open normally (no doubt due to an offending loom connector drying out!)

So I too plan to fit an Anderson plug, however as just for battery charging rather than jump starting was thinking to stick with thinner cable (I already have some plugs ready wired that were removed from a ups, but the cables are def not battery sized!


Any thoughts chaps? Also is an inline fuse 100% necessary? I can understand the point of protecting against someone sticking too much current down the cable but on the other hand is it removing a layer of inherent reliability?
 Not such a Disco Newbie now!
IID BT 
 
Post #177944816th Feb 2017 9:27 am
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Pete K
 


Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10379

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini RedDiscovery 3

If you have a towbar socket, and not going to use heavy wiring, what's the point ?? Question



And yes you would need a fuse appropriate to the size of cable used (to prevent fire if the wire chaffs to chassis)


Spend you time fixing the door lock !
  
Post #177952116th Feb 2017 1:17 pm
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Mikeyb
 


Member Since: 08 Nov 2016
Location: Maldon, Essex
Posts: 515

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Tonga GreenDiscovery 3

Fair comment! Was concerned about blowing fuse in towbar wiring, not to mention having no spare caravan plug to hand. Was a pain trying to bodge a bit of mains cable and bullet crimps together!

Also the Anderson cables although thinner than battery cable, is at least 4x the diameter of the towbar wiring.

Door lock lubed and now operational. At the time I found some conflicting posts on the forum as to whether the manual locks required a charged battery or not.
 Not such a Disco Newbie now!
IID BT 
 
Post #177958316th Feb 2017 3:33 pm
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lynalldiscovery
 


Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Metropolis LE Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

The main reason for fitting mine was for battery trickle charging without having to get to the battery.
If you fit a thinner cable/smaller plugs you will at some point try and use it for jump starting mainly out of desperation or necessity and will regret not fitting the larger kit.
Also well worth getting a pair of andersons crimped into one end of your jump leads.

Fuse is essential not so much for wiring damage protection but some funny guy ramming something into the anderson and causing a fire/explosion! hence the reason to tuck the anderson out of eyesight.
  
Post #177962316th Feb 2017 5:54 pm
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Robbie
 


Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932

United Kingdom 2013 Discovery 4 3.0 SDV6 HSE Auto Baltic BlueDiscovery 4

Pete K wrote:
75a isn't very much for a jump start.

200 is of the right order.


Technique matters. If you connect and try to start immediately the amp draw being pulled through 4 meters of meters of copper is the sum of what the dead battery can take, the vehicle systems and the starter motor.

That is a bad technique.

If you leave the vehicles connected for a few minutes before cranking the amp draw of the dead battery will start to reduce as it takes on a charge; when you crank it will also provide some of the energy for the start without the handicap of the long cables.

That is a good technique.

The bonus with the second technique is that you are less likely to suffer the dreaded voltage drop that sends all the various ECUs into an electronic fit and less chance of melting jump cables or blowing fuses.

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Post #177964616th Feb 2017 6:52 pm
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Pete K
 


Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10379

England 2005 Discovery 3 TDV6 HSE Auto Rimini RedDiscovery 3

A very good tip very relevant to these cars



http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12S-7-PIN-PLASTI...SwVupTrAd1

At £3 I reckon these are cheaper than the Anderson


Now you have oiled the lock you shouldn't need one
  
Post #177964716th Feb 2017 7:04 pm
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lynalldiscovery
 


Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Metropolis LE Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

Robbie wrote:
Pete K wrote:
75a isn't very much for a jump start.

200 is of the right order.


Technique matters. If you connect and try to start immediately the amp draw being pulled through 4 meters of meters of copper is the sum of what the dead battery can take, the vehicle systems and the starter motor.

That is a bad technique.

If you leave the vehicles connected for a few minutes before cranking the amp draw of the dead battery will start to reduce as it takes on a charge; when you crank it will also provide some of the energy for the start without the handicap of the long cables.

That is a good technique.

The bonus with the second technique is that you are less likely to suffer the dreaded voltage drop that sends all the various ECUs into an electronic fit and less chance of melting jump cables or blowing fuses.

Thumbs Up


Thats what I tried to do when the truck one blew, sadly our vehicles have a shut down function all the time the handbrake is on to save fuel some as short as 30 seconds and others up to 5 minutes idling or not if you aint moving its shutting down, very very frustrating at times.
  
Post #177968316th Feb 2017 8:23 pm
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zinke
 


Member Since: 22 Feb 2014
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 584

2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

With the lorry tick over shut down, on my Volvo you could use the cruise control to set pto revs with the handbrake on and have it set at tick over revs and then the auto shut down doesn't kick in. The lorry didn't have a pto pack fitted but still had the option to do it.

Pete.
 IID, webasto software and workshop facility's available.  
Post #177978416th Feb 2017 11:09 pm
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lynalldiscovery
 


Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Metropolis LE Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

Thats how the Dafs are but with the newer Scanias the powers that be have thought of that and pretty much regardless of revs if handbrake on and you arent moving its shutting down.
Same old story the idiots dont ask the people actually doing the job not realising that it now takes twice as much time and effort to achieve the same thing and of course whilst people are messing about doing this one supposedly simple job they arent doing other work so that gets behind as well Censored
  
Post #178005617th Feb 2017 3:44 pm
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zinke
 


Member Since: 22 Feb 2014
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 584

2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 S Manual Zermatt SilverDiscovery 3

Yeah things are heading the same way with the tractors, you can't do anything with the new ones unless your sat correctly in the seat, after 16 hrs a day you want to move around a bit and they throw a wobbler and shut down.

Pete.
 IID, webasto software and workshop facility's available.  
Post #178019917th Feb 2017 9:09 pm
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lynalldiscovery
 


Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274

United Kingdom 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Metropolis LE Auto Bonatti GreyDiscovery 3

Final pic, heat proof sleeving fitted over the power and earth cables to protect them from the FBH exhaust plus the whole install then becomes invisible.
You can see the jump leads with the anderson plugs fitted.


  
Post #179026812th Mar 2017 11:30 am
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