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10forcash
Member Since: 09 Jun 2005
Location: Ubique
Posts: 16534
  
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There is no 'flasher unit' on the D3.... all the indicator functions are controlled by the CJB
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 30th Mar 2008 11:38 pm |
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lawrie50
Member Since: 26 Jul 2007
Location: On the road in Australia
Posts: 57
 
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Retired Bob, at last I have photographic proof of the D3 with van equipped with the inverted Hyland hitch. Check out my gallery the latest picture, 31 March, shows the setup perfectly level. Thanks for that advice it has worked out very well. 2007 TDV6 SE Towing 22' Boroma Primo Grandinata, Mitchell Bros. Tow Hitch, Bolle Tint, TomTom GoLive 825 GPS.
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| 30th Mar 2008 11:53 pm |
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RetiredBob
Member Since: 23 Feb 2006
Location: New South Wales
Posts: 183
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Looks Good Lawrie Retired Bob
2005 Disco 3 HSE TDV6 (Dual Battery, Snorkel, Nudge Bar, Kaymar Spare Wheel Carriers, Long Ranger Aux Tank. LED Shunt, Centre Console Cooler, New Tail Shaft, New Gear Box, Rigged for towing) Towing Trakmaster Van as often as possible
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| 31st Mar 2008 4:30 am |
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away
Member Since: 18 Nov 2006
Location: Cossack
Posts: 111
 
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I just finished testing an interface unit to stop LED lights from blinking under the "bulb test' conditions of my D3. It works and it is so simple anyone can do it. Simply buy one 12V relay for each of the light circuits (brakes, indicators). Connect the relay coils to existing trailer connections of the vehicle, they then act as defacto bulbs.
Use a contact on the relay to drive the LED light. There is a continuous 12V supply available at the rear of the vehicle, but I grabbed mine from an Anderson plug that I had previously installed. This 12v supply is switched by the relay contact to the LED light cct when the relay pulses under normal operation.
The good thing is that the bulb test pulses are of inadequate voltage and duration to operate the relay. Simple, effective, cheap. The whole lot can be easily mounted in a waterproof Jiffy Box and made up to be removable.
Cheers,
Russ. D4: Expedition Rack, 104 Litre Long Range Tank, Raised Air Intake
D3: Every bloomin' thing but the kitchen sink
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| 6th Apr 2008 6:28 am |
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lawrie50
Member Since: 26 Jul 2007
Location: On the road in Australia
Posts: 57
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Russ,
you do not need a relay for ALL the circuits, the bulb test only occurs on the indicators. Also if you do not add a load resistor to simulate a lamp connected on the indicators the trailer connected indicator will not flash and the reverse sensor will not be inhibited when reversing the trailer/caravan.
Also be very careful wiring relays to the circuits without a reverse protection diode across the coils as the reverse voltage can easily blow up the computer circuitry that controls the lights.
Lastly you do not need an external source of 12V as the 12v that operates the relay is there at the time it is needed and can be wired via the contacts to the led lamps.
Check out the circuit in my gallery and you will see all these things implemented along with a delay circuit to guarantee that the relays do not operate on the test pulses. 2007 TDV6 SE Towing 22' Boroma Primo Grandinata, Mitchell Bros. Tow Hitch, Bolle Tint, TomTom GoLive 825 GPS.
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| 6th Apr 2008 7:02 am |
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away
Member Since: 18 Nov 2006
Location: Cossack
Posts: 111
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G'day Lawrie,
my reverse sensors don't work anyway... haven't done since the Kaymar bar was fitted. The relay coils are just under 50 ohms and act as resistors anyway. I used a separate fused 12V supply to the LED's in order to have isolation from the computer side of the circuit. Similarly, while I didn't need to do the brakes, everything is now completely isolated going to the camper trailer and thus I shouldn't have any issues with polarity, short circtuits or otherwise. I don't get your comment about the diode across the relay coils....are you concerned about a stray reverse polarity or back EMF? I acknowledge the latter could be an issue but I couldn't see any evidence of enough back EMF with my multimeter.''
As I say, it worked a treat and I'll be able to use it on my boat trailer as well. All up cost....$19.90, although it could have been a bit more expensive if I'd purchased plug-in bases for the relays.
Sometimes the simple things (read low-tech) work just as well as the more up-market solutions.
Cheers,
Russ. D4: Expedition Rack, 104 Litre Long Range Tank, Raised Air Intake
D3: Every bloomin' thing but the kitchen sink
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| 6th Apr 2008 7:28 am |
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lawrie50
Member Since: 26 Jul 2007
Location: On the road in Australia
Posts: 57
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I agree simple is best BUT back EMF is a real problem and you won't see it on a multimeter but computer interfaces will. Get yourself a couple of diodes and put across those relays you don't want to blow up any expensive LR hardware.
Knowing that you don't have reverse sensor's definitely simplifies it but it is not for those with a whole LR.
By the way all the trailer circuits are already fused in the LHS storage in the boot. 2007 TDV6 SE Towing 22' Boroma Primo Grandinata, Mitchell Bros. Tow Hitch, Bolle Tint, TomTom GoLive 825 GPS.
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| 6th Apr 2008 8:03 am |
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