Do they rust from the inside out or outside inwards?Pete
1965 S2a with Galv Marslands Chassis - Sold (BIG mistake)
1993 200TDi GS Green 5 Seat Manual - Broken
1993 200TDi GS Grey 7 Seat manual - Sold To Defender Owner to Use Engine
1999 TD5 GS Blenheim Silver 5 Seat Manual - Broken
1999 TD5 GS Oxford Blue 7 Seat Auto - Sold
1999 TD5 ES Epsom Green 6 Seat Auto - Sold
2007 D3 2.7 TDV6 XS Java Black 7 Seat Auto
1999 Swift Classic Coronette
2019 BMW X1 AWD Auto - SWMBO's Car
IID Tool BT
11th Feb 2018 8:19 am
Gareth Site Moderator
Member Since: 07 Dec 2004
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 26779
Both!
11th Feb 2018 8:27 am
Damomerlin
Member Since: 17 Dec 2017
Location: York
Posts: 106
Mine from dan Duckworth 96 quid delivered
11th Feb 2018 9:28 am
webego
Member Since: 06 May 2015
Location: Bromley
Posts: 331
Many thanks for the How To. Followed it to the letter with one exception. I had already been to ScrewFix to pick up some M6 bolts and split washers. However after I sheared the first bold off I realised the bolts coming off were not M6 but actually M8. Quick trip to ScrewFix to buy the M8 bolts and washers and all good.
Thanks
5th Aug 2018 10:04 am
mtpollock
Member Since: 05 Nov 2019
Location: Wirral
Posts: 30
Just replaced my air tank based on this guide after having a suspension fault. The air tank had rusted away in 2 places along the weld and lost all pressure. Many thanks for making a difficult job easy, and fixing a long term fault!
Glad it’s helped those who used the guideRange Rover Westminster 4.4 TDV8 what a car
Discovery 3 HSE 2006 gone but never forgotten
Member of the 234,567 mile club😎
5th Nov 2019 3:59 pm
NitroBN
Member Since: 20 Mar 2018
Location: England
Posts: 8
Was definitely M8 not M6 on mine, used stainless bolts M8 x 20mm with stainless split and solid washers, other than that having got a reasonable price from Sophie of Duckworths inc an afternoon of decent weather and delivery for the tank. Angle grind, drill and cold chisel the top most rear bolt as it had no head left for a socket to gain solid purchase my suspension fault appears to be magically cured after switching to a new tank.
Thank you very much for the decent weather that jumped out the box on opening Sophie and furnitureman's guide making this a very simple home job.
8th Dec 2019 4:07 pm
mtpollock
Member Since: 05 Nov 2019
Location: Wirral
Posts: 30
Agreed, I ordered M6 bolts but ended up reusing the old M8 bolts!
9th Dec 2019 12:15 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 18 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
Wish I'd read the end of this thread. I ordered M6 bolts but need M8 bolts. Hey ho.
More annoyingly, the tank I ordered came from Maltings Off Road and it only included the tank side of the VOSS connector, no pipe attachment. My old one had the little olive split on removal so I now need to source another!
3rd Feb 2021 9:15 pm
Kenny57
Member Since: 12 Apr 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 173
Re: How to replace the Air Reservoir tank
furnitureman wrote:
This is my guide for replacing the air reservoir tank on a Discover 3.
Thank you for the writeup furnitureman, very helpful and have just done my own. I was worried about the amount of rust on mine although it wasn't actually leaking. This is a picture of what I found on the side which faces the chassis:
Click image to enlarge
And this is a photo of my lovely new reservoir installed:
In fact the bolts came out fairly easily after a soak of Plusgas and cleaned up well enough to re-use. The only issue I had was with the Voss connector which was very stiff to turn on the tube. The swing on the spanner was so small through the gap to the body that it sprang back the same mount as I could turn at one bite!! In the end I cut down an old spanner to a stub so I could get some decent turn on it. Not easy through the little gap.
Oh, and TyphoonDisco... I also thought the split in the old olive was an issue, but the new one which came with my tank was also split! So I took the old one apart completely to see how they work and the seal is made by two tiny O-rings, one against the pipe and on against the boss fitting. The olive isn't part of the seal, its only there to stop the tube backing out of the fitting. Hope you didn't throw your old fitting away it may still be useable if the O-rings are still in good condition like mine were.
And for anyone who's ever been curious about what one looks like inside (possibly just me but I'm the curious sort) I cut the rusty section out of my old one to see if the end sections were usable for another project (which they were, this is the better end prepped to weld the cap from the other end back on).....
I have a couple of theories about why they would make it like that, but if anyone knows for sure I'd be interested
5th Feb 2021 4:32 pm
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 18 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
Hi Kenny,
I see the olive has a single split in it but the old one had split into 2 separate bits. I've managed to source a new VOSS connector so all is good!
You're right about the first write-up on this thread, it's a great help.
Can you explain what you mean by the O rings that make the seal. Are they the small black rubber rings that are visible inside the smaller part of the VOSS connector?
Did you replace the hose that runs to the reservoir valve block? I will be replacing mine and just hoping I can reuse the valve end of the connector.
5th Feb 2021 5:26 pm
Kenny57
Member Since: 12 Apr 2020
Location: Essex
Posts: 173
HI TD,
Yeh, I would agree that the olive in two bits counts as broken.
Yes the two tiny rubber O-rings are the actual seals. The way they work is as the gas pressure builds up in the system it tries to push the O-rings out of their grooves. This actually makes them seal any gaps more tightly and so uses the system pressure to generate a leak tight seal. The O-rings do need to be able to slide in their groove to work properly so need to be clean, free of nicks or rough edges and properly lubricated to work properly. A very tiny amount of clear silicone grease (NOT oil), just enough to make them go shiny, is the best lubricant for rubber O-rings seals btw, just in case you're interested.
I was dubious about trying to change the valve end of the tube. My existing tube still had its protective sleeve on and underneath was actually in really good condition, so before fitting the new reservoir I took the old Voss connector off and pulled the tube back towards the valve past the body mount (for better access). I then neatly cut about 1/2" off to get rid of the old Voss olive mark and make a nice smooth section for the O-ring to sit on. I protected the end with tape, pushed it back through again, then took the tape off and fitted the new Voss connector. Then I fitted the new reservoir and connected up the tube.
6th Feb 2021 12:05 am
TyphoonDisco
Member Since: 18 Jan 2021
Location: Morpeth
Posts: 102
Good stuff! I was unsure about the integrity of that tube as I had discovered a split near the reservoir end so went for the full replace. Good info on the lubricating of the seals, thanks.
The suspension is now behaving impeccably! Just need to sort the electrical gremlin causing the multiple failures and U0122 codes!
11th Feb 2021 6:31 pm
discostick
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 330
Soaked bolts in Deblock oil, great stuff. They came off ok.
Note: Bolts are M8 not M6 per original post.
Nice easy job, can get pipe off receiver without having to remove compressor cover etc.New Engine - Fitted with body on...
Developer of the FBH Smart Control Module - Keyfob 3rd button control + USB Diagnostics + remote status LED + priming + battery protection + water temp control setpoint (or fixed run time)
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 330
It was time!
Rusted where the tank sits close to the chassis member and accumulates dirt.
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
Click image to enlarge
New Engine - Fitted with body on...
Developer of the FBH Smart Control Module - Keyfob 3rd button control + USB Diagnostics + remote status LED + priming + battery protection + water temp control setpoint (or fixed run time)
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