Desert Traveller
Member Since: 06 Aug 2006
Location: The Gabba - QLD
Posts: 420
  
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~Rich~
And as always your instructions are very helpful.
Graeme,
Thanks for the great system.
Too back I can't play, as always business calls and I'm OS again. 06 TDV6 SE with many LR and after-market extras. Used only on weekends and trips out west.
Audi TT Roadster (Daily and around town drive)
VW Eos TDI For Sale
Previously 01 TD5 and 94 TDI
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 4th Apr 2011 8:20 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
 
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chm wrote:Best way to get a set in South Africa?
I supply direct outside Oz. Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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| 4th Apr 2011 8:40 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Desert Traveller wrote:
Thanks for the great system.
Too back I can't play, as always business calls and I'm OS again.
I still haven't used mine other than every day on the farm. I look forward to my next outback trip which will be the 1st since the D2 was replaced with the D4. Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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| 4th Apr 2011 8:53 am |
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Blue C
Member Since: 29 Nov 2009
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2
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GraemeS wrote:The 9 cent gold plated jumper needs to be pressed fully onto the pins as the crimp is right at the top. I've discarded a few that weren't very tight but it seems that I've missed at least 1 - sorry DT. The jumper doesn't need to be fitted but because its used for re-calibration (a screwdriver can be used instead if you're quick), a spare post is provided so that it can be fitted over 2 posts. The few prototype PCBs didn't have the spare post and it was a bit hit and miss as to whether the jumper stayed on just 1 post. The next version will only have 2 posts to use a screwdriver and without the need to be quick.
Edit: Calibration can be easily achieved without using the jumper by setting the switch to +50 then shorting posts 1 & 2 together with a screwdriver. If the vehicle has already started to rise, it will soon drop back to normal height once posts 1 & 2 have been shorted because initiating calibration cancels any current height adjustment. Then continue with setting the switch to -20 when at normal height etc. A new module has zero height adjustments stored so +50 will have not cause the vehicle to rise prior to calibration.
Just to clarify Graeme- are you saying that the missing jumper pin wouldn't cause a malfunction in the ECU and thus isn't the cause of the air suspension error? Thus can you drive it without the jumper pin once calibrated? I discovered today that my jumper pin was only half on its posts (poor connection) and I am wondering if that might have caused my air suspension fault recently- as opposed to poor connection somewhere in the connectors. ( I haven't reinstalled Llams yet as I am making sure I exclude the air suspension fault as being related to my sudden power loss and multiple ECU error messages 2 wks ago which occurred on same day but hasn't recurred in last 2 wks). I should say I am looking forward to reinstalling it soon as it was great in the Victroian High Country in Jan this year! Regards, David
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| 4th Apr 2011 12:12 pm |
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cedwat
Member Since: 16 Nov 2007
Location: North
Posts: 179
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hi graeme,
I am interested in your system. It looks that you have found the perfect solution to increase the D3 versatility!
I am using aftermarket rods that add 2,5" when I put my 275/65R18 tires and standard rods when I put my normal sized tires. I was wondering if your system would allow me to do the same, but keeping my standard rods ?
1) when the button will be on the +50mm position, will your system really add + 50 mm for each position (low, road and off road) and allow my car not to "touch" tires in any position?
2) is +50 mm over "road" height position okay with 275/65R18 tires?
3) whose distributor should I get in contact with for France?
Thank you
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| 5th Apr 2011 6:34 am |
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disco4x4au
Member Since: 19 Jan 2006
Location: Perth
Posts: 409
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cedwat wrote:hi graeme,
2) is +50 mm over "road" height position okay with 275/65R18 tires?
Thank you
I can answer 2) , as I have the same size tyres. Anything over a 40mm lift will give you enough clearance for normal driving, although you may have to wire-tie the front plastic wheel-well liner out of the way (at the front lip). In extreme articulation, you may experience a slight rub between the rear tyres and the front of the rear wheel-well, but nothing serious.
Cheers,
Gordon ex - 2006 D3 TDV6 SE, silver, with lots of stuff - R.I.P.
ex - 2009 D3 TDV6 SE, silver, had lots of stuff too!
Now - 2010 RRS 3.0 TDV6, rimini red, 18" rims + Cooper LTZ, rear eLocker, Spider tuning box, GOE protection plates and rock sliders, GOE 3way shortened rods.
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| 5th Apr 2011 6:51 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Blue C wrote:Just to clarify Graeme- are you saying that the missing jumper pin wouldn't cause a malfunction in the ECU and thus isn't the cause of the air suspension error? Thus can you drive it without the jumper pin once calibrated?
Hi David,
That's correct. Post 3 is a dummy purely to provide a 2nd post to store the jumper when not in use during calibration because the jumper wasn't nearly secure enough when fitted to only 1 post.
Another piece of info - if the switch connector was ever to loose contact on 1 or more pins (or switch wires were to become broken) it could not cause a suspension fault. If only 1 pin lost contact, the effect would be -20, OFF or +50 depending on which pin lost contact (+5v/signal/0V) and regardless of the switch setting. If 2 or 3 pins lost contact then the effect would be OFF regardless of the switch setting. Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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| 5th Apr 2011 10:55 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Hi Cedwat,
I find the electronic solution is very convenient for me because I want to have extra height at speeds above the off-road height speed limit then return to normal height every time I leave my house. I usually use +30 rather than +50 because +30 gives enough bump-stop clearance yet a slightly softer ride than +50.
1) +50 when used in off-road mode only produces about a 40mm increase. I haven't done any measurements at access height but expect it to still be around 50mm. I will check.
2) Already answered - thanks Gordon.
3) I supply direct outside Oz. See my web-site llams.com.au Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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| 5th Apr 2011 11:23 am |
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Blue C
Member Since: 29 Nov 2009
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 2
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Thanks very much Graeme. The info about the switch connector is helpful too.
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| 5th Apr 2011 11:25 am |
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cedwat
Member Since: 16 Nov 2007
Location: North
Posts: 179
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Tanks graeme and 4x4disco. Perfect for me. My fifth Disco ...
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| 5th Apr 2011 5:22 pm |
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Preacher
Member Since: 15 Aug 2009
Location: NE Victoria
Posts: 141
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GraemeS
Just returned from the Flinders Ranges in SA - WOW what a great place.
Amongst other places we did SKYDRIVE, an 8hr offroad tour on private property. One section of an hour or so was very harsh & rocky.
The following day it evidenced apparently effecting my Lower control arms and my Tirod ends to such an extent that my steering wheel instead of being vertical was off at a 25 to the hour angle. This set off 3 faults and resulted in 'the suspension lowering permanently. HOWEVER it didn't affect the Llamms system which when switched to the +50 setting raised the car back to road height which enabled me to extracate myself and the van and scadadle back home. (2 days away)
Did you know there is only 3 LR dealers in SA on the web.
Rang my dealer Blacklocks of Lavington (NSW/Vic) who spent 20 mins on the phone going thru scenarios but to no avail.
I found a Repco repair shop in Hawker - just south of the Flinders, who had a computer fault reader except he didn't have the up dates to cover LR's - His suggestion was 'buy a Toyota'.
Took it into Blacklocks the morning I got home (2 days from the Flinders and 1 hours drive from home) the LR mechanic was off sick - the service manager (who's just the best) put the D3 on the computer and then showed me the problems as described above.
Another safe extraction of a D3 from a possible very embarassing and expensive location thanks again Graeme
dj
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| 8th Apr 2011 12:07 pm |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Hi Preacher,
Good to hear that another person has has escaped from the "safe" height that the supension lowers and levels to whenever an ABS fault occurs. Anyone would think that these vehicles could only ever have ABS faults when on smooth road where the lowered stance isn't a problem, although the ride at about access height could be rather uncomfortable even then. Its fortunate that the suspension actually levels rather than just lowers otherwise switching to +50 after the lowering would have no effect. Llams could do with a +100 setting to provide off-road height in these circumstances! Hmmm...
Was damage sustained or was it just the geometry knocked out of alignment? Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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| 8th Apr 2011 9:41 pm |
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Preacher
Member Since: 15 Aug 2009
Location: NE Victoria
Posts: 141
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Graeme
apparently the 2 component items mentioned were on the 'to do list next service' time table - so the particular harsh ground covered plus the van on the back probably pushed the components too far - it also seemed to be particularly bad when on the bitumen with the van on behind doing a LH sweeper bend the circle with the A in it flash on and off and shortly thereafter stayed on.
dj
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| 9th Apr 2011 12:39 am |
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GraemeS
Member Since: 17 Mar 2008
Location: NSW
Posts: 706
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Did you enlighten Blacklock's service manager about Llams? Home of LLAMS, for LRs and Jeep GCs
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| 9th Apr 2011 1:36 am |
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Preacher
Member Since: 15 Aug 2009
Location: NE Victoria
Posts: 141
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Yes I did
and do you know what
He inspected the vehicle almost immediately I arrived (even with his mechanic not in), got rid of the faults after showing me how it all works, showed me the suspension problems in detail AND did 3 or 4 software upgrades for a grand $ total of NO CHARGE
you think i'm impressed - you bet
dj
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| 9th Apr 2011 1:42 am |
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