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jkp
Member Since: 17 Sep 2005
Location: Living among Bawbags
Posts: 4528
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Pelyma wrote:What about good people in Sussex (near Littlehampton)? ![Thumbs Up Thumbs Up](images/smiles/icon_thumbs.gif)
another pm
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13th Oct 2007 9:51 pm |
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Russell
Member Since: 24 Aug 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 10564
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What is the best thing to put on the black plastic wheel arches, mirrors, bumper corners and tailgate handle to keep them looking good. MY17 D5 1st Edition Namib Orange
MY15 D4 HSE Kaikoura Stone
MY12 D4 HSE Nara Bronze Sold and gone
MY11 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey Sold and gone
D3 S spec Silver Sold and gone
Tow bar, full length roof bars, side steps, tow bar storage unit, surround camers.
D4 camera club
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13th Oct 2007 10:24 pm |
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jkp
Member Since: 17 Sep 2005
Location: Living among Bawbags
Posts: 4528
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Russell wrote:What is the best thing to put on the black plastic wheel arches, mirrors, bumper corners and tailgate handle to keep them looking good. ![Question Question](images/smiles/icon_question.gif)
Use the wax (paste not liquid) you are putting on the bodywork. works well and gives UV protection against fading. Failing that any trim dressing will do the job.
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13th Oct 2007 11:53 pm |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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NoDo$h wrote:Oh hell, I've ordered some jetSEAL 109
What have you guys done to me
Will stick with the Meguiars Deep Crystal Carnauba wax I already have until I've used that up, then will get some P21s Concours.....
Damnit!
Oh you're gonna get so much grief for this..... Bodsys Brake Bible
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14th Oct 2007 10:01 am |
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PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
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Hi jkp,
Having read yours and C6REW's posts, I have a quick question....is it better to apply sealant before the wax or the other way around....it's just that I've always applied polish, then sometimes wax first and then finally a sealant, but I'm starting to think I'm doing it wrong now...
Please can you clarify the 'best' method with regards to shine and also protection against sticky mud and fine scratches...thanks a lot!
Another thing.....a friend is going to send me a spare front left-hand mudflap (I snapped mine on Saturday), so I was thinking of asking him to order some of this fantastic JetSEAL 109 stuff together with some P21S carnauba wax, the only thing is that I cannot find an online store that can sell them both at the same time....
Does anybody know an online shop in the uk that offers both?
Cheers,
Paul 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Buckingham Blue
2007 Golf GT DSG
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15th Oct 2007 11:08 am |
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NoDo$h
Member Since: 02 May 2006
Location: Finding new and exciting ways to milk badgers.
Posts: 19689
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Paul, I spent hours looking for a shop that sold both on Saturday to no avail. The links posted on the first page of the thread are the cheapest from what I could see too. I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
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15th Oct 2007 11:18 am |
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Bodsy
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Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
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Paul, There's only one place that sells the Jetseal in the UK (sole importer), so if they don't have the P21S, then it'll have to be two shops I'm afraid.
JKP, whilst you're in 'consulting' mode, I tested out the Jetseal on SWMBO's Zafira saturday afternoon. Applied using an applicator sponge (red Megs one) It seems to go on very streaky (and was trying to make sure it was thinky applied as it states), is there a trick to it, should I have had a damp applicator first?
Once dried, it wiped off off easily, so no real problem with it (although didn't get the chance to apply the second coat before it started raining) I'd applied Klasse all in one before hand as well as I knew that was a quick apply/wipe off process in case I didn't get a chance to apply the 109. Would this have a detrimental effect or be OK?
Perhaps (if you get time/can be ar$ed) you could take a couple of pics with the 'look' on the paintwork whilst applying it?
TIA
Bods Bodsys Brake Bible
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15th Oct 2007 11:26 am |
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AndrewW
Member Since: 06 Aug 2007
Location: Saddleworth
Posts: 2302
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Russell wrote:What is the best thing to put on the black plastic wheel arches, mirrors, bumper corners and tailgate handle to keep them looking good. ![Question Question](images/smiles/icon_question.gif)
First, my credentials: I wash my car twice a year whether it needs it or not.
Second, my trim recommendation. I have a stock of ArmorAll Extreme Tire Shine as I drive on a lot of clay tracks and the clay denatures the tyre rubber (so I do spray off the tyres a lot ). I apply it to the tyres with a French paintbrush (1" round, not ze flat Eenglish brush) and work it in. This uses less than 1/4 the amount as spraying would. As my D3 was "pre-owned" by someone who had paintwork-waxed the plastic trim , all the trim was grey spotted with white, so I "did" it with the Armorall Tyre dressing (and paintbrush). The result was outstanding. Dark, uniform colour and sheen 8) , excellent beading and dirt repulsion .
The trim looked so good I had to wash the car MONTHS ahead of schedule...
A 2006 D3 finally swapped for a 2016 D4 Graphite in Graphite grey. No mods
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15th Oct 2007 11:29 am |
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NoDo$h
Member Since: 02 May 2006
Location: Finding new and exciting ways to milk badgers.
Posts: 19689
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what is zees denatured rubber you speak of? Mine goes a bit, 'ow you say, bleu after ze clay? I know it's not considered "kind" to say no these days, but no. Just no, ok? And if it's not ok, still no.
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15th Oct 2007 11:52 am |
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jkp
Member Since: 17 Sep 2005
Location: Living among Bawbags
Posts: 4528
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Bods, the jetseal should have the consistency like you were applying AG super resin polish (without the white residue) A foam applicator is ideal and you should not wet or dampen the pad unless you think it's just soaking into it. If you do wet it,then just 'spritz' a bit on the face of the applicator, and give the tub a guid shake!! Mixing Klasse and JS is not a problem, but the JS is just as easy to apply, it's only the timings between 1st and 2nd coat to allow time for the product to 'bond'
PaulP, ideally polish, seal and wax. Think of it like clean, protect and shine. You can use the sealant and wax the other way round, but sealants give a much better protection to the paintwork and generally last longer before breaking down. With the wax breaking down first its better to have this as your top coat that can be 'topped' up. Sealant top up every six months, with wax, depending on quality every 2-3months. Make sense?!
NoDosh, welcome to the world of OCD
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15th Oct 2007 12:06 pm |
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PaulP
Member Since: 04 May 2007
Location: Barcelona
Posts: 4317
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jkp wrote:Sealant top up every six months, with wax, depending on quality every 2-3months. Make sense?!
Yep...perfectly...thanks a lot!
Another question whilst we're on the subject....I have used Autoglym Super Resin Polish for the last 10-15 years and have always sworn by it before I got more information about other 'better' polishes.....
I've heard lots of contradictory opinions....mostly saying the SRP is just a quick-fix polish and not something that should be used in a professional/serious capacity....seeing that you use it a lot has gotten me thinking again....
Would you still recommend SRP instead of (for example) Poorboys Polish with Sealant or something similar?
Does SRP work will when applying with a Random Orbit polisher and a foam pad, or is it just better to use it by hand (since it goes on and off so easily).
Cheers for all the valuable insider information
Paul 2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 SE Auto Buckingham Blue
2007 Golf GT DSG
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15th Oct 2007 12:13 pm |
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jkp
Member Since: 17 Sep 2005
Location: Living among Bawbags
Posts: 4528
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SRP is very good at what is does and that's polish. It will not protect the paintwork, but clean it. £ for £ its as good as anything and I use it almost on a daily basis.
It's not a good polish to apply by machine. It contains chalk as it's abrasive (sp?) which does not break down, so applying by machine could lead to surface scratches. Swissvax cleaning fluid is an alternative as the abrasive product does break down to refine the finish as heat is put into the product from the friction of the pad/surface.
Poorboys is a very good product. As is chemical guys, megs and the other big manufacturers. I use AG due to being in the trade and it suits me perfectly for what I do. Easy use, cost effective and very good products that work with technical back up at the end of a phone.
Your right about SRP not being used in the trade sense. Its rebranded to Radiant wax, but is exactly the same product in 5ltr tins.
As a side note anyone with a dark coloured car, the AG supreme wax is better than SRP. It's got the same qualities, but is designed to mask swirls and light scratches in darker colours. SRP for light colours, Supreme for Darker.
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15th Oct 2007 12:29 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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JKP Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
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15th Oct 2007 12:34 pm |
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Bodsy
Site Sponsor
Member Since: 06 Nov 2006
Location: In the Clubhouse
Posts: 21361
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You're taking this all too seriously now..... Bodsys Brake Bible
D4/D3 Remote FBH heat kits
BAS Remaps/ EGR Blank
Transmission Flush
Software updates/enabling
Clock/ SNOTM /3Flash / 4x4Info /BT Update /Service Reset/Error Codes / Gearbox Reset
See It Here
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15th Oct 2007 12:43 pm |
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