Antjp
Member Since: 09 Aug 2013
Location: Warringon
Posts: 349
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I have a very small noise coming from tailgate actuator for the upper part when using lock/unlock buttons or the release latch but not very powerful. I tested my actuator off on my battery and it's very powerfull and working. All was working well until I had to remove my fuse box to reconnect the sunroof drain. I've been back to that area and I can't see anything disconnected. Putting a test light or multimeter on wires shows no signs of power. I do have earth. But as I get a very faint sound coming from the actuator when trying to operate must mean there is some power. I even tried a LED but it didn't light up.
Last edited by Antjp on 11th Jun 2016 11:04 am. Edited 1 time in total
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2nd Jun 2016 3:07 pm |
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Antjp
Member Since: 09 Aug 2013
Location: Warringon
Posts: 349
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This is a wire I've found. But I'm sure I didn't break any wires. Tailgate latch wires are purple and black. Not gray.
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3rd Jun 2016 2:04 pm |
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Antjp
Member Since: 09 Aug 2013
Location: Warringon
Posts: 349
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The wire in question has nowhere it could have come from . The tailgate electrical plunger still makes the same dull sound where it's not getting enough power to operate it.
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3rd Jun 2016 2:50 pm |
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Antjp
Member Since: 09 Aug 2013
Location: Warringon
Posts: 349
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Has anybody got any info that may help me on this. My battery did go flat when I was doing the sunroof pipes. Could this have broken any relays?
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11th Jun 2016 11:03 am |
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Pete K
Member Since: 15 Jan 2016
Location: GL
Posts: 10602
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poor connection at one of the plugs you disturbed?
e.g the fusebox/BCM
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11th Jun 2016 12:03 pm |
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Antjp
Member Since: 09 Aug 2013
Location: Warringon
Posts: 349
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I will check the fuse box connections over again. Thanks.
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11th Jun 2016 12:15 pm |
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lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
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Ive got my tailgate in bits at the moment as failed to open, I stripped it down and tested the solenoid actuator and I reckoned it was weak, ordered a new one and its got much more grunt when tested on a battery, the original 10 yr old one was good for one pull and each extra use it got weaker and weaker and thats free with no load applied.
I plugged a 21w bulb into the actuator connector and it lit up nice and bright.
Ref the fuse board contact spray is worth a go.
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11th Jun 2016 8:15 pm |
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Antjp
Member Since: 09 Aug 2013
Location: Warringon
Posts: 349
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My actuator is pulling strong on a battery. When I put a bulb on my actuator wires and I press the handle I get no lights. I do get a small hum from the actuator when I press the handle and connected up. So I think there is slight power. It's very odd and very annoying I've fiddled with the wires on the fuse box today and all seems to be connected properly. But the upper tailgate still doesn't open.
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11th Jun 2016 11:42 pm |
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lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
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When I started to strip mine I first of all went for the release handle as theres a microswitch inside, I was convinced at first this was the fault but the light bulb test confirmed it was okay, the inside of the rubber gaiter was full of corroded alloy dust and the pivot lever was partially seized.
As its just a make/break switch maybe you could bypass the switch temporarily and see if that gives you power at the actuator.
I have read the switch is a failure point and only seems to come as part of the main door handle, repair kits are on ebay.
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12th Jun 2016 2:09 am |
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Antjp
Member Since: 09 Aug 2013
Location: Warringon
Posts: 349
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Mine could well be something to do with the handle or wires running running up there. My tailgate was open all day in the sun. That's the last time it opened electronically.
When I use my lock/unlock buttons on the dash it does the same noise as the handle. When I power the actuator up off my bike battery, boom it works strong as ever.
Thanks. I will check the wires up top tomorrow. It definatly gotta be wires.
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12th Jun 2016 2:24 am |
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Antjp
Member Since: 09 Aug 2013
Location: Warringon
Posts: 349
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Checked the upper tailgate wires. I've got a black and white +12v on multimeter which is Going to tailgate release handle. but when I test with multimeter the boot actuator makes a buzz. Which is what happens when I press the handle. But it gives out no voltage on multimeter nor nights up a Test light On the actuator wires.
I've taken back out the fuse box and re fitted and still it doesn't work. On the plus side I have fitted a release cable inside the car to use until I get it working somehow.
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12th Jun 2016 2:03 pm |
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mallo
Member Since: 10 Feb 2009
Location: Jersey
Posts: 351
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Hi all
I am having the same problem...... The top tailgate sometimes opens but it can't be relied on.......
I have put the "test bulb" where the actuator is normally connected and it does light but very occasionally it doesn't????? And if you leave it for a couple of minutes it seems to work again?????
I also seem to have the same issue that Lynalldiscovery in that the first operation of the actuator seems fairly good/powerful but the more times you operate it the weaker the pull is???
Is this driven by a module. And where is it located? I also read the fault codes and it did show a fault on "the upper tailgate short or open circuit"?? But I cleansed it and it's not come back (this may be due to me playing around).......
Antjp did you manage to sort yours out?
Lynalldiscovery did replacing the actuator resolve your issues?
It's almost as if I have a little if both of these issues, I think it's time to replace the actuator, but I would be interested in Lynalldiscoverys replacement resolved his issues????
I wonder if the actuator is breaking down and causing the module driving it to cut the power (a bit like a fuse)??
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20th Jun 2016 9:06 pm |
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Antjp
Member Since: 09 Aug 2013
Location: Warringon
Posts: 349
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I'm no expert but with days of reading into my issue, many multimeter readings and testing with test lights, I now understand how it works. Your fault doesn't sound as expensive as mine. Mine is a CJB fault. This is a circuit board built into the fuse box and is what controls the tailgate and its power supply.
I would recommend for you to program your key to release your tailgate and see how you go for a while. If you find you have no problems, it could be your release handle at fault. (Ignition on, ignition off, take your key to the tailgate, hold down the Landrover program button and press the tailgate release handle until you hear a bong from your dashboard)
It does get a weaker current every time you open your tailgate within say 10 seconds continually. So for the test wait say 20 seconds between openings.
I've got mine opening electronically now but I'm not using the landrovers CJB anymore. I've wired it through a seperate relay which I've installed near my tow bar relays. The CJB would have cost £700 fitted and programmed.
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21st Jun 2016 5:17 am |
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lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
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mallo wrote:Hi all
I am having the same problem...... The top tailgate sometimes opens but it can't be relied on.......
I have put the "test bulb" where the actuator is normally connected and it does light but very occasionally it doesn't????? And if you leave it for a couple of minutes it seems to work again?????
I also seem to have the same issue that Lynalldiscovery in that the first operation of the actuator seems fairly good/powerful but the more times you operate it the weaker the pull is???
Is this driven by a module. And where is it located? I also read the fault codes and it did show a fault on "the upper tailgate short or open circuit"?? But I cleansed it and it's not come back (this may be due to me playing around).......
Antjp did you manage to sort yours out?
Lynalldiscovery did replacing the actuator resolve your issues?
It's almost as if I have a little if both of these issues, I think it's time to replace the actuator, but I would be interested in Lynalldiscoverys replacement resolved his issues????
I wonder if the actuator is breaking down and causing the module driving it to cut the power (a bit like a fuse)??
New oe actuator from ebay 45 quid delivered and its been fine since.
I took the old unit to work and cut it open, couldnt really see much wrong apart from it was a little dry.
This is my actuator being powered up, crap video I know!
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21st Jun 2016 6:54 am |
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mallo
Member Since: 10 Feb 2009
Location: Jersey
Posts: 351
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Brilliant, that's a great help guys....
Antjp thanks for confirming that the power get less each consecutive operation within a set period, that was the bit that was slightly confusing....... and the price to have a new CJB , I will be going down the separate relay route if this doesn't work...., does yours lock when the other doors are locked or have you taken a feed from somewhere else??
Lynalldiscovery thanks for the video, mine is doing the same as you video, so I have ordered a replacement actuator, the switch looks in mint condition and have no worries there..... the only problem the e-bay seller doesn't deliver to Jersey (oh there is some fun living on this island......) but I think I have managed to get around this....
Perhaps after 10 years and although it depends on how often it gets used its worn I hope its just that.
Have a good day
I will let you know how I get on........
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21st Jun 2016 9:06 am |
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