Member Since: 02 Jul 2012
Location: Dunfermline
Posts: 36
Heater fan stops working
Hi all,
the fan in my Disco's aircon works fine for a while and then just stops running.
I can twaddle about all I like with the the temperature knobs, fan speed control, on/off buttons, etc but they make no difference.
If I stop and turn off the ignition and leave it for a few seconds, then turn the ignition back on the fan starts working again.
Can anyone suggest what's going on with it?
It's getting to the time of year I really need it to work properly.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
This link into my gallery has a number of pdf's related to the heating and AC systems. Off hand, I cannot think of anything in particular that is the solution to your problem.
There is a fan speed module up beside the fan that others seem to often replace but that is usually for when the fan stops completely but the motor still works. The 7 page pdf circuit files in the link below will help you find the sort of "relay" called on page 52 a Control Module - Blower motor - Front (D258).
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=303002005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
22nd Oct 2014 11:54 pm
Dogmatix01
Member Since: 02 Jul 2012
Location: Dunfermline
Posts: 36
Thanks buyer.
I'll take a look. Any help is appreciated as I haven't a clue where to start.
The controls all appear to work perfectly, just the fan doesn't start.
The fact I can turn off the ignition and back on again and it starts working makes me think it could be an electronic problem.
Thanks again for the response, I'll let you know how it goes.
Dave
I just remembered relay R16 and 40 amp fusible link FL12, also in the engine compartment fuse box.
Relay R16, the front fan relay could be acting up. It is not unheard of either and is an easy fix so hope that is the problem.
Fusible Link FL12 is probably OK. Relay R16 shows as R176 on that pdf I referred to; the fusible link is also indicated but for the most part, those either conduct or they do not.
If you have the rear heater setup, relay R10 operates that so just switch relays assuming the rear heater fan operates OK. If it does, that suggests a not computer problem but something like wiring related to the front fan only.
If no spare so to speak, it may be time to purchase a spare relay. I suggest genuine Land Rover as there are some spark/voltage spike soakup bits inside the LR relays to protect the computers.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
23rd Oct 2014 3:12 am
F355GTS
Member Since: 10 Nov 2008
Location: North Hampshire
Posts: 849
Mine was the relay, everything looked Ok on the HVAC panel but no air,
swap the relay with the starter relay next door (same rating) to prove then replace the defective oneMark
23rd Oct 2014 8:40 am
tanters
Member Since: 24 Oct 2007
Location: Oireland
Posts: 4286
Must check that relay so. Thanks for the info A happy childhood ... is the worst possible preparation for life.
23rd Oct 2014 8:57 am
VMatas
Member Since: 26 Jan 2012
Location: Rybnik
Posts: 147
You may need check a thermofuse inside in blower control module too...
23rd Oct 2014 10:14 am
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Always do the cheap stuff first - swapping the relay with another one from the fusebox is always a good starting point and has resolved many an issue.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 02 Jul 2012
Location: Dunfermline
Posts: 36
Thanks for all the advice guys.
I'll swap over the relays first and see how it goes. The fault is intermittent at the moment so won't know right away, if it works fine for a couple of weeks that should confirm the relays at fault.
The diagrams are really helpful too.
Thank you.
Dave
I regard my LR3 as a mobile computer that looks like the worlds most capable 4x4 - note I did not say best, but it is the most capable. Fortunately, an S3 cannot claim to be a computer at all but it certainly is a capable 4x4.
It just seems to me if Land Rover wanted to take on Toyota in the third world, all they would have to do is build a Defender that either does not break down or better yet, is easy to fix - that would be harder I think. For the developed world, perhaps going the luxury route is the way to profits - seems odd but....
In the recent past, (prior to Ford), their vehicles were for the most part, not reliable, not luxurious, nor were they profitable. Something had to change so ....
Now it seems they are putting new engines into everything; (for example a small V6 twin turbo in the 4), I wonder if it starts again.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
23rd Oct 2014 2:45 pm
Dogmatix01
Member Since: 02 Jul 2012
Location: Dunfermline
Posts: 36
There's just to much computer based crap in cars these days. Everything is just far to complicated. Sensors everywhere and ECU's for everything, it's insane.
Best Landie I had was a 1980 2 door Rangerover. It was pretty beat up when I got it. Bit of welding on the chassis, a good service, new exhaust, a good clean and it was ready to go. I intended keeping it for a couple of years and then get something better. I kept it for 10 years and it never missed a beat. Other than tyres and service items it cost me very little to keep it on the road. No electronics, no ABS and the suchlike, simple.
When I did sell it, I sold it to a neighbour moving to Portugal. He'd bought land and towed a 4 berth caravan over there with it. No problem and he kept it for 4 years until he was tempted by a 110.
The Rangie belongs to a young guy now who still has it. All still original. 34 years and still going strong and regularly off-roading.
Says it all really....... 8)
23rd Oct 2014 11:14 pm
Mahoganybob
Member Since: 02 Jan 2015
Location: Wales
Posts: 4
Stopped at my Nephews took the key out and all hell broke loose, indicators going, doors locking /unlocking heater fan pulsing to the beat of the Indicators and numerous Brake faults flashing up on the dash. Disconnected the battery for an hour and all of the faults disappeared, or so I thought the fan was not working for the Heater checked on the Forum and as suggested swapped a relay and Hey Presto it works. A trip to Landrover beckons in the morning
Thanks for the help, saved my bank balance
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4th Jan 2015 11:59 am
Mahoganybob
Member Since: 02 Jan 2015
Location: Wales
Posts: 4
Hopefully not, will find out tomorrow when I fit the replacement Relay and keep my fingers crossed.
Another fault I have is that I get a suspension fault which only started after all my tyres were changed it pings up after a few miles and goes after I have turned the ignition on and off until another few miles have been covered
Thanks for replying
Bob
This is what makes me think it's a CANBUS problem. The suspension fault could well be related.
It's worth checking the battery and alternator voltages too.
The wheel arches are a common place to cause problems - perhaps it's possible that the wiring was disturbed when your tyres were changed.
I'm not sure, but I wouldn't have thought the relay could cause such a problem. Current: Discovery 3 06MY (55 reg) HSE Auto Zambezi Silver Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
Freelander 2 2007 HSE Manual Tambora Flame
Previous: FL2 56 reg SE Manual Black (written off )
Disco 3 06 reg B7S Manual Rimini Red
Disco 2 TD5 Y reg ES Manual Blue - Chipped
Several Discovery 300 TDis
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Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
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