Member Since: 27 Oct 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 15
DIY Mega flush question
Hi All,
I'm based in Sydney Australia, and there are very few places to get a mega flush done over here (and even then the one I've found won't do it due to concerns over the white metal stator bush failing!), and I also want to change to the metal sump, so I have had a few thoughts but am in need of a bit of assistance.
I am planning on draining and dropping the sump, replacing the filter and fitting the metal sump, filling it up to roughly the correct level, then removing the oil cooler line and this is where I need help, I know the gearbox will pump out its oil, but what about the torque converter? if I put a line from a drum of fresh oil onto the cooler(or whichever is the inlet) will the box suck oil in through the cooler and then the rest of the system? and hence flush the box and the torque converter?
so new oil from drum sucked in through oil cooler, through gearbox and torque converter and then drain out from line that was dissconnected from oil cooler into separate drum...just using the gearbox oil pump....
if the gearbox oil pump won't do this, I may look at pressurising the drum of new oil (around 2- 3 psi or just lifting it up above the cooler and letting gravity do its thing) as has been said elswhere I really want to flush the entire system with new oil, just trying to work out how to do it without the fancy machine and without breaking the box!
Hope someone can offer me some insight.
Thanks for any help in advance
Cheers
Andy
23rd Jun 2015 9:41 am
snailcove
Member Since: 21 Nov 2010
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 460
I like your idea I think it would work but I'm no expert on auto boxes , would you need the move the gear leaver to open the different valves in the gearbox to flush them also ,
23rd Jun 2015 10:16 pm
Kingmav66
Member Since: 20 Jul 2010
Location: Gloucestershire
Posts: 1349
Search around abit on here. A few on here have done DIY flushes. I just had clear barrels with 1litre marks on them both. Raised and pressurised the supply barrel. I just matched the supply flow rate with the discharge flow rate. If you take the top pipe off the cooler, the supply goes into the cooler, and the box discharges from the pipe. Very brief sorry
23rd Jun 2015 10:29 pm
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8157
If you remove the pipe and make an extension pipe long enough to fit into a 20litre container, start the engine for a few seconds you will get approx 5litre out, fit a pipe into the cooler inlet and pump the same amount of correct oil in, due this twice or three times. The engine needs to be running and all gear positions pre- selected for a few seconds while the level is checked to spill out on the level plug, the oil must be at about body temp. when checking the level.
See Filos write up in the WIKI for further info..It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
24th Jun 2015 8:42 am
Magnet6x6
Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Al Hamra, Oman
Posts: 165
I'm very interested in this as its a job near the top of my list.
However I'm not too sure I follow your meaning on a coupe of things
M3DPO wrote:
The engine needs to be running and all gear positions pre- selected for a few seconds while the level is checked to spill out on the level plug
Are you saying that I have to be under the car checking the level while at the same time some one sits in the car and runs through the gears? The thought of that makes me nervous.
M3DPO wrote:
the oil must be at about body temp. when checking the level.
Do you mean normal operating temperature?
Sorry if I'm being a little dense.If we weren't supposed to eat meat why did God make animals taste so good?
Prospeed XRS, traxide, Mitch Hitch, life is good.
24th Jun 2015 9:59 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8157
To check trans oil level, car must be level and you need to be able to get safely underneath, start engine and select each position on gear selector for a few seconds, leave engine running and remove level plug, fill until oil starts coming out of level plug. Do not remove level plug without engine running as oil will run out. There is a temperature range for this procedure but I find if test it like a babies milk i.e.put your finger in it and it niether feels hot or cold it is ok.
Look in the WIKI on the site home page for FILO's method he gives full details.It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
24th Jun 2015 10:18 am
Magnet6x6
Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Al Hamra, Oman
Posts: 165
M3DPO wrote:
There is a temperature range for this procedure but I find if test it like a babies milk i.e.put your finger in it and it niether feels hot or cold it is ok.
Look in the WIKI on the site home page for FILO's method he gives full details.
Yeah I've read up on it extensively including FILO's post. I was just wondering if I'd misunderstood some thing from before but its clear enough now.
What I hadn't appreciated was the oil temp. I'd assumed it would have been scalding hot.
Many thanks If we weren't supposed to eat meat why did God make animals taste so good?
Prospeed XRS, traxide, Mitch Hitch, life is good.
24th Jun 2015 10:47 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8157
It does get hot quickly and as we all know liquids expand when hot and can make a tremendous difference to the oil level It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
24th Jun 2015 11:23 am
AusAndy
Member Since: 27 Oct 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 15
Thanks Kingmav, appreciate the info.
Hi M3DPO, I've read filo's post, the issue with this is you only drain the sump and not the torque converter, so not any different to draining sump and refilling by the normal method, and I want to do a complete flush not just partial....but really appreciate you're input
Cheers
Andy
24th Jun 2015 11:40 am
M3DPO
Member Since: 22 Sep 2010
Location: Notts.
Posts: 8157
I would assume the circular route of the oil is sump, TC, cooler, sump, so if after the oil pan is replaced it is filled with new oil via the filler or the cooler inlet it is exactly the same as doing the first stage of my suggested oil change, that is running the engine with the cooler feed pipe into a container as all this does is empty the sump It can when others can't,
It will when others won't,
It goes where others don't.
24th Jun 2015 11:56 am
garrycol
Member Since: 06 Dec 2010
Location: Canberra
Posts: 1119
Oil temp needs to be between 35 and 50 degrees C.
24th Jun 2015 12:03 pm
Magnet6x6
Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Al Hamra, Oman
Posts: 165
AusAndy wrote:
I want to do a complete flush not just partial
X2If we weren't supposed to eat meat why did God make animals taste so good?
Prospeed XRS, traxide, Mitch Hitch, life is good.
24th Jun 2015 5:46 pm
Magnet6x6
Member Since: 09 Dec 2009
Location: Al Hamra, Oman
Posts: 165
garrycol wrote:
Oil temp needs to be between 35 and 50 degrees C.
If we weren't supposed to eat meat why did God make animals taste so good?
Prospeed XRS, traxide, Mitch Hitch, life is good.
24th Jun 2015 5:48 pm
Oswiperus D3 Decade
Member Since: 02 Apr 2010
Location: Chelmsford, Essex
Posts: 1595
I allow it to dribble out as the temp rises and then refit the plug at about 40 degrees C. If you don't have access to diagnostic kit to measure temp then an infra red thermometer can be used. I do the oil change exactly as M3DPO has suggested. I use an adapted hand garden pressure sprayer, when I did my D3 I raised it up and let gravity feed the oil back into cooler which took a while so when we did my mates D3 we pressurised it just a bit and the oil whizzed in. The job is pretty straight forward and very satisfying. My oil change was precautionary and two years on and still all is good, that will be the kiss of death now!
Stu.
24th Jun 2015 7:48 pm
AusAndy
Member Since: 27 Oct 2012
Location: Sydney
Posts: 15
Thanks guys, appreciate the great info and responses
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