This easy to fit.
Main problems are getting to the bolts above the chassis bar. we did it by taping a small torx to a ratchet spanner (fiddly but doable). Patience.
Once all the bolts out, the sump wont come out until you get a hacksaw blade and cut off the oil tube by sliding the blade between the bottom of the gearbox and the sump.
Once the sump is out of the way, Pulled the small white tag down.
Unplugged the big plug on the sleeve and pulled out the faulty sleeve.
After a clean up, pushed a new sleeve in and pushed the tag up. (Dont forget to add a little oil on the rings) and line up the tags, check inside with a mirror.
Fitted the transmission oil filter part of the sump kit and then slid in the new sump and gasket.
Bit fiddly getting those hard to reach torx bolts in but all done.
Drained about 3.5 litres of old fluid out that was BLACK, put nearly 4 back in (could have been low)
Consult the filling instructions in the haynes manual, need to run engine and get the fluid to 30degrees, then check again the level, Should just dribble out.
Warm up gearbox and check.
I had read up a lot about this and was very dubious but am glad to say not half as bad as I thought. We did have a pit though, this was easier.
Took around 3 hrs in total...
There are a lot of videos and pdfs that show you whats above the sump pan, worth researching first.
A good search was to search for the zf gearbox in google, they fit them on BMWs, and a lot easier to do on them too but you can see what to expect and it shows the white tag and sleeve replacement.
I am not teaching anyone to suck eggs here, just my experience of doing this job may just help someone else.
Hope this helps anyone that needs to do this that isnt a Landy specialist.
Cheers
Andy
28th Mar 2015 4:28 pm
fishinmad
Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: St Ives
Posts: 877
did you do up the sump plate bolts in the sequence suggested by ZF?
There is a diagram in my gallery if you need it.Club Narpy Torch
“No return to boom and bust†Gordon Brown when chancellor
He has been proved right, now there is only bust!
28th Mar 2015 5:05 pm
catchawave
Member Since: 21 Jan 2014
Location: Plymouth
Posts: 12
Yes defo, I didnt want it leaking again,
There are some really good tech info but you have to go and find it.
Wasnt as bad a job as planned.
28th Mar 2015 5:09 pm
eenomc
Member Since: 07 Oct 2013
Location: Moray
Posts: 173
Re: replacing auto transmission sump and sleeve
catchawave wrote:
Drained about 3.5 litres of old fluid out that was BLACK, put nearly 4 back in (could have been low
I'm in the middle of this job and have just drained 4.8 litres from the box plus whatever had been leaking over the last few months. I'll keep a note of how much I put back in when following the refill procedure.
29th Mar 2015 5:32 pm
catchawave
Member Since: 21 Jan 2014
Location: Plymouth
Posts: 12
Thanks for the info,
I couldnt get any more in so I thought it was full. I could check again when I next service, I have the dreaded EGR valve engine light on now so I will be tinkering again.
My haynes manual say between 3.5 - 4 litres should have come out.
(Just checked my workshop manual and that says the same - 3.5 to 4 litres)
Hope yours goes well.
Be interesting to see how much goes in.
Cheers
Andy
Last edited by catchawave on 29th Mar 2015 6:53 pm. Edited 1 time in total
29th Mar 2015 5:41 pm
mx468
Member Since: 12 Dec 2012
Location: Middletown, Rhode Island
Posts: 367
Quick question...
When changing out the sleeve, does the new sleeve come with new o-rings? Thanks.Narpy's Grill Mod, Suspension Rods, Ultra guage, wrangler Goodyear duratracs 265/60/18, new thermostat, diff oils changed, brake switch new, aluminum rack floor, LED driving lights in foglights, rear camera, just need gvif unit, next on list! New front arb bushings, new front valve block, 191,000 miles.
29th Mar 2015 6:39 pm
catchawave
Member Since: 21 Jan 2014
Location: Plymouth
Posts: 12
Hi Mx468
Yes, it does, once the small white tag was pulled down, the old sleeve came out really easy and you could see the o rings were quite flat.
The new one comes with o rings and once oiled is a bit tight to get in which is good so to get a good seal.
Note, There is a lug in side the sleeve that has to line up with the slot in the socket on the mechatronics unit.
Good luck.
Andy
29th Mar 2015 6:45 pm
eenomc
Member Since: 07 Oct 2013
Location: Moray
Posts: 173
I did think it was a bit too much, the gearbox was flushed last year and the level checked. I wonder if it is a sign of other issues..
The next issue happened when I removed the multi pin connector to find a pin lodged into socket 1 (sport/manual). My initial thoughts were I'd snapped a pin on the mechatronics unit but when I checked the pin is present but pushed in. It appears that some kind of bodge has been made at some point effectively lengthening the pin length by using part of another as an extension.
I've abandoned the job for the day, might drop the mechatronic unit and replace the pin properly but considering it's all working fine at present maybe I should just leave it.
29th Mar 2015 7:18 pm
catchawave
Member Since: 21 Jan 2014
Location: Plymouth
Posts: 12
Yeh, I did hear about pins pushed back sometimes, this was a check that was mentioned, Luckily mine was OK.
Sometimes this is the reason why I like to do work on my car myself, Garages do make me suspicious sometimes.
Prob is they make theses cars almost impossible to work on due to the electronics and programming. Crafty really.
After disconnecting the battery for the above work, the mirrors dipdown when reverse is selected and the interior light comes on randomly......Wierd.
been googling that at the moment.
29th Mar 2015 7:23 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
Try switching off the lazy entry function on the dash
29th Mar 2015 9:02 pm
catchawave
Member Since: 21 Jan 2014
Location: Plymouth
Posts: 12
Cheers, I will give it a go,
found something online about setting up the seat memories again....Disco 3 - (07) just clocked 130k
29th Mar 2015 9:06 pm
catchawave
Member Since: 21 Jan 2014
Location: Plymouth
Posts: 12
Thank you so much for such a valuable input.
I had been searching for some experience regarding sleeve replacement. Mine does not leak even though it's almost 11 yrs old. The D3 is almost 90k miles old and oil in auto box has been changed every 2 years regardless of mileage.
Maybe the filter is nice and clean, but the sleeve might be close to stard dripping, after all, it's o-rings what we are talking about.
Anyway, in 25 yrs of LR only ownership I've realized that changing and renewing all fluids prior to their sell-by date hepls a lot to protect gaskets, o rings and flexible duts (e.g coolant, brake fuild and oils).
But after 11 yrs the mechatronics sleeve might be well due for replacement before leaks start.
My only fear is that even though the D3 is mine, it's my brother's daily runner, and I would not like to leve him D3-less because of communication fault, twisted pins and so on. The sleeve appears to be a very easy removal and not so easy fitting, but a mirror or something might help to relocate it.
I guess you went for the steel pam alternative to facilitate the task for future replacements
Best regards
RobertRegards, Robert
Only a closed filling station can prevent me from reaching my destination
1992 Santana 88"SWB petrol
1995 RRClassic 300Tdi
1999 D2 V8 manual coiler
2004 D2 Td5... SOLD!
2006 D3 V8 SE
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did you do up the sump plate bolts in the sequence suggested by ZF?
