I cant understand why its not done it ? I won,t do anything else until new battery is fitted. I reset the gearbox yesterday as It had been reconned and that worked as it is a little harsh now going into 1st gear when you pull up at lights and junctions and such. My first priority is front diff, I am not sure what todo there yet. I could do with someone who could do the whole job of fitting a recon one at a decent price.
1st Nov 2015 6:11 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Mark, for what it's worth, I struggled like a pillock when trying to update the bluetooth using my IID Tool. This update takes quite some time and is very intolerant of low voltages. There was two things that were lacking:
Patience
A fully charged battery
After calming down and charging the battery overnight, switching off my after market sat nav and turning out the interior lights I was successful without having power support of any kind.
The thread is here and might help you resolve your problem: http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic116987.html
Gotta say though, I did the COD update sometime ago and was successful first time so if i can do it, rest assured, you'll walk it mate. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
Member Since: 02 Dec 2011
Location: Montreal
Posts: 745
Another vehicle with the running and a good set of cables can be used instead of a CTEK or other battery maintainer. Never use a regular battery charger, the ripple will not be appreciated by the ECUs.
COD wise, if the re-flash was successful and one of the available two choices was selected (not IPC for Pre 2007), it will appear. In some cases, --:-- will be displayed. A soft reset will do the trick: Menu->Service Test->Vehicle Resethttp://www.gap-diagnostic.com/
Assuming a good battery condition (12.2v), how long should one put the Ctek on before starting a CCF flash?--
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
thanks, directly onto the battery or with the -ve on the chassis?--
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged
For a D4, it's important that you don't connect straight to the negative battery terminal, as the Battery Monitoring System (BMS) needs to see the charge.
Naks wrote:
Assuming a good battery condition (12.2v), how long should one put the Ctek on before starting a CCF flash?
12.2V is ~60%, so could be a little better:
Current: Discovery 3 06MY (55 reg) HSE Auto Zambezi Silver Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
Freelander 2 2007 HSE Manual Tambora Flame
Previous: FL2 56 reg SE Manual Black (written off )
Disco 3 06 reg B7S Manual Rimini Red
Disco 2 TD5 Y reg ES Manual Blue - Chipped
Several Discovery 300 TDis
Just updating to nav on the move I have selected to do all 3 parts together so do I just leave it or will I need to do something after 1st ecu flash ? I have read the manual but I am not just clear on that part ?
31st Jan 2016 1:56 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
Just start it going Mark and leave it to it.
Go and make a cuppa and check on it an hour later
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Allisport Fast Road Intercooler, V8 Brakes, Silicone IC Hoses, EGRs Blanked, Remapped, De-Cat pipe, FBHIC
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