Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Southampton
Posts: 436
POO! looks like the front diff.
Right did front disc and pads today. While i was under the car i looked for anything which was causing the GRUNCH GRUNCH GRUNCH noise from the front. It's much much worse now when under load but also audable on the over run. So I think I've got no choice but to pull the front diff. Drive and prop shaft look okay but I'm guessing they will all need pulling before the diff comes free. So bearing in mind it's a manual, how long to pull the diff? I'll be working only with axle stands on my back. Also any silly little idotcy I should know about or is it just nuts and bolts? I'm a well cable mechanic but I struggle these days with old injuries from a bike accident. If i took it to garage what sort of costs am I looking at?
Cheers all
3rd Jan 2015 5:56 pm
Allan_T
Member Since: 10 Sep 2012
Location: Northampton
Posts: 1034
A second pair of hands would be helpful as they are heavy and awkward to balance, even more so when lying under the vehicle with minimal room to manoeuvre. You may have difficulty raising the frontend high enough to clear the diff and supports, a decent set of axle stands will also be required.
Front axle assembly removal - http://workshop-manuals.com/landrover/lr3/...54.10.01)/GAP IID Pro Multi Vehicle Defender L316 2007-2015 - Discovery 3 - Discovery 4 - Discovery Sport L550 - Freelander 2 - Range Rover Evoque L538 - Range Rover L322 - Range Rover L405 - Range Rover Sport L320 - Range Rover Sport L494 Electrical Fault Diagnostics
3rd Jan 2015 7:49 pm
Nodge68
Member Since: 05 Sep 2014
Location: Newquay
Posts: 1014
Have you drained to oil for examination? I changed the oil in my diffs a couple of weeks ago. The front had small steel flakes on the magnoplug. I'm going to need to do a diff change in the future. I'll monitor the oil until I change the diff.Freelander SE 2005 Auto.
D3 TDV6. Gone.
3rd Jan 2015 11:17 pm
discostick
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 306
I replaced the front diff on my manual 3 not so long ago.
From memory, it took a couple of hours to get it out on axle stands. If you get stuck give me a shout. Hardest part for me was getting the driveshafts out of the diff.
Once it was removed, it was obvious it was knackered. If i grabbed the output shafts, i could wobble them by hand!
I would get under the car and try this out of interest, grab it as close to the diff as possible to eliminate play in the UJ.
My input shaft bearing was fine. Both output shaft bearings were gone.
The cause. appeared to be the failure of the paint coating inside the housings. It had come off and the inside rusted. Leaving debury running through the bearings. Il get picks of this later, i still have it in the garage.
I had replaced the breather, which is a probable cause of this a year before this, but it was already too late.
I picked up a used diff from a breakers. I was lucky and found a genuine 35k miles car being broken up.
Before i fitted it, i wanted to be sure this one didn't have the same problem! So i split it and took a look inside.
It was immaculate inside, so i re-sealed it and gave it a coat of paint.
4th Jan 2015 12:08 am
doz
Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Southampton
Posts: 436
Cheers for the info guys, discostick how did you pull the drive shafts in the end? I going from where the noise is loudest in the cabin which is by the drivers feet. Think it maybe the output bearing drivers side. Whatever it is its much louder now.
4th Jan 2015 12:19 am
discostick
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 306
I levered them out. Its just hard to find a point to lever against.
4th Jan 2015 1:06 am
gruodiz
Member Since: 16 Nov 2011
Location: Klaipeda
Posts: 294
Did you replace shims under tapered bearing cups which sits in housing, did you replace cups at all or just cones with rollers, how did you set backlash? It's much harder to catch all these parameters when input shaft bearings are replaced. All these bearings both for front and rear diffs are available at specialists. I've done it couple of times but last rear diff did not succeed.
Very informative video
7th Jan 2015 10:49 am
discostick
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 306
I didn't have to replace the bearings in the diff. It was off a very low mileage car.
Because I had striped my failed diff and seen the mess inside, I wanted to be sure I wasn't fitting another duff one.
I have replaced a bearing set on a previous car, like you say, the input shaft is the biggest challenge with the crush washer needing replacing too.
This was the state of my original diff. The paint lining had flaked off and the casing rusted!
17th Jan 2015 8:54 am
gruodiz
Member Since: 16 Nov 2011
Location: Klaipeda
Posts: 294
I've seen this very poor paint inside as well. Big problem is front diff breather pipes valve which stucks and creates pressure when oil gets hotter. It causes oil leak through seals.
17th Jan 2015 9:02 am
doz
Member Since: 15 Jun 2014
Location: Southampton
Posts: 436
New diff and front lower arms fitted to day and the car has been transformed!!!!! Lovely ride and no more weird noises. Have old diff and will strip to find the issues.
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