Member Since: 09 May 2013
Location: Stroud, Glos
Posts: 101
Alternator issues?
Hi all, I have just had my alternator refurbished as I had the red battery light on. I also had hdc fault, suspension lowered etc, etc.
Changed the brake light switch & bulbs as a precaution. Now she raises drives etc but the battery light is still on. Running volts do not exceed 13.6 I'm guessing that's not good enough?!
Not noticed if the gears are displayed, forgot to check.
I also have park brake fault displayed, although it still works.
I've read the codes and I get generator circuit, which I guess is the alternator light, u0416 invalid data received from vehicle dynamics control module, b1b02 low frequency coil, b1c57 passive start ignition relay coil circuit and c1a55 ignition switch input circuit.
Sorry for the rambling! Does anyone know what those codes could mean? Still be voltage related?
27th Feb 2014 10:41 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
You could try a hard reset but it sounds like your exchange alternator isn't up to the job again. Mods:
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27th Feb 2014 10:49 pm
bigdave Site Sponsor
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 9870
Should be up to 15.0 on start up running.
+1 for what Narpy said.All things shipping, storage, transport. UK and worldwide.
Member Since: 09 May 2013
Location: Stroud, Glos
Posts: 101
I've tried that too, when I changed the bits I did that, also checked the connectors on the ecu's while I was there!
It wasn't an exchange, it was repaired at a specialist. Think a new ones on the cards.
27th Feb 2014 10:56 pm
Narpy
Member Since: 18 Jul 2011
Location: Stockport
Posts: 7830
Take it back and have a moan at them, it's not right that's their problem. Mods:
Front Fogs + Halos
FBH Remote Control
The 1st Ever RRS Modded Grill
Garmin Nuvi + D4 Surround + Reversing Camera.
D4 Steering Wheel.
Rear Boot Spoiler.
Twin Brake Lights.
Wing Mirror Indicator Repeaters.
Long Roof Rails
Make your own Narpy grill thread
I'm not scared, I'm outta here.
27th Feb 2014 11:07 pm
TDi.Si
Member Since: 09 May 2013
Location: Stroud, Glos
Posts: 101
I will be taking it back! It's just a pain in the ass to remove then drive to Gloucester again!
28th Feb 2014 12:39 am
Valhalla
Member Since: 23 Oct 2011
Location: Isle of Skye
Posts: 124
Have you checked the circuits that connect into the back of the alternator? If you have a "Generator Circuit" DTC flagged, it might be that you have a broken wire, and not a broken alternator. The engine controller has a line into the back of the alternator for "Smart Charging", even on the early cars (2006?) which will flag the code you have. Broken wire will put the alternator into a low-charge "default" mode of charging. I would have to consult with a circuit diagram to confirm the low amperage wires that make their connection at the alternator.
Later 2007onw cars have a smarter mode of operation over the ECU, but I believe that the mechanics of the system are in place for 2005onw.
Below are two links to material I have on my Album related to the alternator circuit. Per the post above, your alternator may be OK and it is now just a connector or wiring problem.
The regulator is supposed to be a Smart Regulator according to Land Rover, however I regard it as dumb, or at least a slave taking instructions from the ECM as to what the alternator is supposed to do. Hopefully the plug is just not quite inserted fully as attempting to prove one of the conductors is faulty would not be that easy.
This is the link to more alternator files about half way down - there is material on both regulators as well, the original one and the more current one.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=38012005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
1st Mar 2014 5:22 am
TDi.Si
Member Since: 09 May 2013
Location: Stroud, Glos
Posts: 101
Just to update, I got another alternator and the light remained. Fuse 20 (I think) had blown, now it's all fine and charging as it should! Just need to get alignment done now to stop the disc kicking in and lowering the car and she should be fine again!
5th Mar 2014 9:46 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yep, Fuse 20E in the battery junction box is the one to check.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
The 5 amp fuse blew for a reason and it feeds the Battery Sense terminal on the alternator so something inside the alternator probably caused it to blow.
Also I tend to regard alternators on a 3 as like an oil filter; they should be routinely replaced. In the case of the alternator, probably every 100,000 miles, (maybe even kilometres).
If the new alternator quits again, I would be looking first at that fuse - there could be a problem with the conductor; also last time I replaced my alternator with a rebuilt, it lasted about a week; the second rebuilt has been good.
Per the link below, it sounds like lately, genuine LR rebuilt have not been so good to the point that LR will only sell new now.
Thanks for the update - we always like to know the outcome.2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
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