Member Since: 06 Sep 2013
Location: Derby
Posts: 54
Wheel nuts
Guys
Not having had the Disco for too long I have been checking it over for winter...I know its a bit late and I have noted some things regarding the wheel nuts.
I have been reading alot of threads on here regarding locking wheel nuts etc. I have been checking my nuts (ooooooeeeeer missus!) and have noted that the locking ones are starting to rust and have a crack through the top of them. Also the main nuts all seem to be loose and have some movement by fingers.
Not being technical minded and not having the Disco for that long I have a couple of questions on this...
1 should I look to replace the locking nuts with normal (I have noted that many recommend this but not sure that a lack of lockers would make the car more of a target)
2 should I look to replace ALL the nuts or are the ones that have some movement ok?
All help/advice would be most welcomeEGR Valves Blanked, Bluefin Mapping, Back Windows Tinted, Side Step Fitted, Alarm modded, BT upgraded, New battery fitted, Light protectors fitted, Wind Deflectors fitted, Door sill protectors, bonnet catch switch, performance air filter, Ladder to nowhere, BT module upgrade
Upgraded to MY10 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey
Uncle Rays Wheel protector fitted,
IID tool (to be changed)
Swift Celebration 640
18th Dec 2013 4:00 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72917
Replace your lockers with OEM non-lockers as soon as poss!! Never heard of anyone nicking wheels that are on the car, there's an easier way for the scum to nick them.
Re standard nuts, depends if they have started to swell. Any swollen nuts (Oo er!!) need replaced. They won't "fail" but you won't get the 22mm wheel brace on them. Worth having a few spares in the car.
18th Dec 2013 4:04 pm
bigdave Site Sponsor
Member Since: 04 Jul 2008
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 9869
Defo - A Big YES to both.
The lockers are useless and any thief that tries to lift 2.7tons will hopefully get what he deserves.
also replace your wheel nuts with originals as these can swell too.
Ive done the above and am very pleased as I can change a wheel on the road if I have too and have piece of mind.
Get it done chap.All things shipping, storage, transport. UK and worldwide.
Member Since: 27 Jun 2013
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 2
Ditch them ASAP! Just had new tyres fitted, one wheel could not be removed and the tyre fitter damaged another locking nut, I had to have both removed by cutting off the cover and welding on a nut over the damaged locking nut. Wish I had done this ages ago!2013 D4 HSE
18th Dec 2013 4:13 pm
lochy04
Member Since: 06 Sep 2013
Location: Derby
Posts: 54
Cheers for the feed back guys
I take it the "loose" cap tops on the normal nuts are the "norm" thats good...
The lockers are for the bin
The next question is where is the best place to get the nuts from and I take it oem ones are a must?EGR Valves Blanked, Bluefin Mapping, Back Windows Tinted, Side Step Fitted, Alarm modded, BT upgraded, New battery fitted, Light protectors fitted, Wind Deflectors fitted, Door sill protectors, bonnet catch switch, performance air filter, Ladder to nowhere, BT module upgrade
Upgraded to MY10 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey
Uncle Rays Wheel protector fitted,
IID tool (to be changed)
Swift Celebration 640
18th Dec 2013 9:22 pm
Hairy Dan
Member Since: 19 Jan 2011
Location: Co. Durham
Posts: 12319
Drop Nick (AKA TLO) Parts Manager @ Yeovil Land Rover a pm
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 72917
Agree re Nick, the Parts God.
Re loose outers on the standard nuts, that's normal if there's a little wiggle, a lot is not good as outer part may come off (non LR parts).
18th Dec 2013 9:33 pm
barryp
Member Since: 24 Dec 2006
Location: Sydney
Posts: 138
I have found that if you use a 12 flat socket on them they will swell but a 6 flat socket keeps the outer jacket well supported and they don't swell.
Learnt this early on with my previous LR3.
Regards
Barryp2017 Range Rover Sport TDV6 L494 Fuji White
2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 L320 Fuji White Loved but GONE
2010 TRAKKA Motorhome Fiat Ducato GONE (What a dud, don't buy one)
2006 Discovery 3 SE TDV6 Automatic Chawton White/Ebony. Loved but GONE
2006 BMW X5 diesel White/Charcoal, Bought new, gone after 12 years! Excellent vehicle.
Ex Member Range Rover Club NSW
The link below is to my gallery and a pdf file related to the wheel nut size and shape.
As above, you want to use genuine wheel lugs and no lockers.
Note to thieves, the reason locking lug nuts are not required is that to steal the wheels, you first have get a wheel off the ground. The articulation on each wheel due to the air springs is so much that you pretty much have to tip the 3 over to get a tyre off the pavement. Given the 3 weighs about 3 tons wet, your evening may be more successful if you tackle some far east manufactured vehicle instead.
Now, back to the wheel lugs:
The single sheet pdf per the link provides dimensions of the LR part number RRD500290 lug nut on vehicles from MY 2005 to 2008, (up to VIN 8A450459). From VIN 8A450460, the part number is RRD500590.
Visually, there is no apparent difference between the two part numbers. The dimensions appear identical as well. The shape, size, and profile of the Stainless Steel "hat" appears identical.
There are I presume differences in metallurgy to reduce corrosion and swelling of the hat or perhaps better sealing between the inside surface of the hat and the steel of the lug nut body. The reality is the differences are not immediately obvious however.
A 22 mm six point half inch or larger socket drive fits over the lug nuts. (As above, 12 point sockets are not the best to use.) I use a nominal 36" long breaker bar with the 22mm socket - any shorter bar, best you be in shape. Depending upon your source, for both alloy and steel wheels, the lug nut torque value appears to be 103 lbf ft, (140 Nm); others suggest first tighten to 96 and then finish at 110 lbf ft, (130 and 150 Nm).
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/use...sketch.pdf2005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
19th Dec 2013 6:21 am
lochy04
Member Since: 06 Sep 2013
Location: Derby
Posts: 54
Guys
Thanks again for some invaluable and much needed advice. As always the forum comes up trumps
I have contacted TLO and awaiting the outcome on a new set of nuts...
bbyer many thanks for the superb information
Regards
Tony
EDIT: Spoke with Nick full set of nuts ordered once again thanks for the help guys EGR Valves Blanked, Bluefin Mapping, Back Windows Tinted, Side Step Fitted, Alarm modded, BT upgraded, New battery fitted, Light protectors fitted, Wind Deflectors fitted, Door sill protectors, bonnet catch switch, performance air filter, Ladder to nowhere, BT module upgrade
Upgraded to MY10 D4 HSE Stornaway Grey
Uncle Rays Wheel protector fitted,
IID tool (to be changed)
Swift Celebration 640
19th Dec 2013 2:13 pm
nighthawk
Member Since: 24 Jul 2010
Location: Malta
Posts: 1163
bbyer wrote:
Note to thieves, the reason locking lug nuts are not required is that to steal the wheels, you first have get a wheel off the ground. The articulation on each wheel due to the air springs is so much that you pretty much have to tip the 3 over to get a tyre off the pavement. Given the 3 weighs about 3 tons wet, your evening may be more successful if you tackle some far east manufactured vehicle instead.
Not to be negative, but most thieves will jack the wishbone up if they want to remove a wheel and not use the normal chassis jacking points. They don't really care if the car slips off the jack... it's not theirs. Just 3 or 4 pumps of the hydraulic jack (after contact with the wishbone) and the wheel is already off the ground...
Having said that, I still agree that locking nuts are more trouble than good and should be binned.Dennis
2006 Discovery 3 TDV6 Commercial Manual Buckingham Blue
13th Jan 2014 9:20 am
bsm
Member Since: 14 May 2012
Location: Ellikom
Posts: 232
The inside size of the nut is it M14x1.5?
I'm looking for nuts to mount steel rims.2017-...: Disco II Td5 auto, 1999, BAS remap, HD TC and auto box Ashcroft, Allisport IC, ACE, 2" lift only coils, BF goodrich KM2 265/70R17, FF front and rear bumper, TF steering guard and tree sliders, nanocom.
2013-2017: Disco 3 TDV6 HSE aut. of 2008, Britpart treesliders, IIDTool, RLD sump guard, BFG KM2 265/70R17, adj. rods, BAS remap + EGRs blanked, silicon IC hoses.
2010-2013: Disco II Td5 of 2000, ACE, front Bearmach HD coils, rear SLS, GG AT2
Yes, the internal thread of the D3 lug nut is M14 x 1.5
Since a metal rim is generally thinner than an alloy rim, you may be best to purchase lug nuts that are open at both ends. This is because more of the threaded stud will most likely be sticking past the outside of the rim than with the thicker Land Rover alloy rims.
Towards the bottom of the link below, are four files related to wheels and the lug nuts.
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=38012005 LR3 HSE 4.4L AJ-V8 petrol; Traxide Dual Battery; PIAA 2500K Yellow Ion H11 Fog Light bulbs; CounterAct LT-2 Capacitive Corrosion control; LLumar AIR80 Blue clear Infra Red blocking side window film; Liftgate manual release; Schrader Valve "air in" mod to OEM air suspension reservoir tank; Akebono ceramic pads; OEM solid vented discs; LR4 design hitch receiver; Wiggs D4 MOST bluetooth module; Clock on the Dash; 3 Flash signal light mod; Backup Camera; 2015/16 Nav Data update.
10th Feb 2014 3:34 pm
bsm
Member Since: 14 May 2012
Location: Ellikom
Posts: 232
Thanks bbyer for the confirmation, I wasn't 100% sure.
Good point, the thinner steel rims I didn't think of. 2017-...: Disco II Td5 auto, 1999, BAS remap, HD TC and auto box Ashcroft, Allisport IC, ACE, 2" lift only coils, BF goodrich KM2 265/70R17, FF front and rear bumper, TF steering guard and tree sliders, nanocom.
2013-2017: Disco 3 TDV6 HSE aut. of 2008, Britpart treesliders, IIDTool, RLD sump guard, BFG KM2 265/70R17, adj. rods, BAS remap + EGRs blanked, silicon IC hoses.
2010-2013: Disco II Td5 of 2000, ACE, front Bearmach HD coils, rear SLS, GG AT2
Keep in mind also that steel rims and alloy rims will use a different clamping method. The steel rims use the bevel at the bottom of the nut to center and clamp the rim down. The alloy rims use the shoulder on the nuts, to spread out the pressure.
The stock LR nuts have both, so you can use the steel spare tire.
I need to get a complete set of new nuts, was stranded on the side of our major highway, with a flat tire and no way of getting the rims off. And the local dealer wants $10 each, so a full set is $200, ouch.
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and I have noted some things regarding the wheel nuts.
Never heard of anyone nicking wheels that are on the car, there's an easier way for the scum to nick them. 
