Member Since: 01 Feb 2011
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3171
@ DS - I'll have ago at that as well
I've already got a BAS unit and the Webasto loom but happy to contribute to this project
Steve
29th Sep 2014 8:18 am
VMatas
Member Since: 26 Jan 2012
Location: Rybnik
Posts: 147
I have very similar things(faults clearing, switching off on 75C reach) with my project Code was almost finished, but never tested in hardware(time, time... ) - if you will, i can participate with testing(and/or PCB design if any) too.. Your project has a few things more
29th Sep 2014 8:31 am
discostick
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 304
Yeh time is always the issue, i started this last year!
It made sense to go with a temperature set point, its the most efficient way. You wouldn't heat your house for a period of time rather than to a thermostat set point ...?!
Like Alex, i did this for my own interest and fun, its just turned out better than i first hoped, then i couldn't stop adding features. And it was cheaper than a 1533 with the extra bits required to make it remote.
The USB port is handy for diagnostics too. I have a fault LED that gives me an idea what is wrong, but i always needed to get the fault code or monitor the performance, so i added the port.
I already had a 1533, so i added an input that i can take from my 1533 (the 12v switched output from the 1533, not the wbus line). This allows me to still use the push start button on the 1533 or have the 1533 start it at a pre-set time. It also allows the 1533 to run the heater even when the car is "awake"- but i haven't used this feature yet, only tested it with a switch (it works).
29th Sep 2014 8:57 am
Jay666d
Member Since: 11 Feb 2014
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 753
discostick wrote:
Nodge68 wrote:
therealboss wrote:
wiggs wrote:
Excellent
Might have to dust off my old pic programmer
You should consider making some of these for sale ... It's a no brainer only having to carry one key fob
I for one would buy it.
Seconded
If a few people on here were interested I have made something based off this idea!
It works perfectly, with the car awake etc!
I added a few features along the way....
Battery voltage monitoring to protect the battery going flat.
Fault code reading and clearing automatically.
Button for priming.
Selectable running times. 15, 30 or 45 mins from a DIP switch on the board. *
Start and stop using the 3rd button as Alex designed!
Option to use a 3rd party remote. Because sometimes I want my 3rd button set to adjust the suspension height when I tow etc.
Start and stop buzzer.
12v Output that can be used for a remote led to show it's running (buzzer is enough for me)
USB port for diagnostics with (free) Thermotest software.
To name a few...
*I just added a new feature which I think is the biggest weakness with all the controllers on the market, rather than a set running time, it runs to a set water temperature (maximum time is also set incase it never reaches it). Because the time required to meet my ideal temp of approx 75 c always varies with ambient temperature, this made sense.
I only have a prototype board but have almost finished designing a pcb to make it more refined. Maybe I could get a few extra made and have some people on here test them for me
I'd also be happy to test this... Or just buy it when it's ready!
Is it an easy install? I'm still a bit lost on the programming of the LR button! (I've never changed it from doing the lights to any of the other features!)07 Land Rover Discovery III HSE
07 BMW 1200 GS Adventure
08 Mercedes Sprinter
29th Sep 2014 2:08 pm
Martin Site Admin and Owner
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18506
discostick wrote:
I only have a prototype board but have almost finished designing a pcb to make it more refined. Maybe I could get a few extra made and have some people on here test them for me
discostick, in the spirit of this thread and the base design being given away, why not share the new design/modifications here?06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know!
29th Sep 2014 2:52 pm
discostick
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 304
Martin,
Good idea, more than happy to share this.
Once i have the schematics drawn up (nicely that is, its all scribble at this stage) i will share them. I still have some tweaking to do.
29th Sep 2014 3:07 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Quote:
its all scribble at this stage
You are my kind of guy.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 06 Nov 2004
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 18506
Fab 06 D3 SE / 15 LR D90 XS SW / 88 LR 90 Td5 / 68 BMW 2000 ti
Any issues with the site let me know!
29th Sep 2014 3:11 pm
VMatas
Member Since: 26 Jan 2012
Location: Rybnik
Posts: 147
diskostick,
may i can suggest one more thing to implement - possibility to switch of FBH remotely, using GSM modem in case, if someone started FBH and some very important issues keep them at home or at work. By my opinion it will be very useful feature. I have implemented that, when my first solution for my Rover 75 (so Land Rover is logical continuity ) was built on simple radio remotes and in second simple controller on PIC(arghh, programmed with Flowcode ) together with GSM modem.
I found, that best way to do this is simple start/stop sequence counter to use same input on controller to simplify circuit.
29th Sep 2014 3:53 pm
discostick
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 304
Maybe that will be my next project !
Im lucky that i am always within 100ft of my car when i want to start the heater and i have poor phone signal here so maybe i will have to move house first.
18th Oct 2014 8:37 am
discostick
Member Since: 08 Nov 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 304
Quick update on my controller / diagnostic module:
I have ordered the prototype pcb (plus a few spares).
As promised, links to the schematic, pcb shots and a scale photo.
On the module i am having 4 LED's for various tasks. Diagnostic port. Switch (black) to switch between diagnostic and control mode. Press switch (red) for priming and a few other tasks.
There will be 8 wires exiting the module, 4 required, 3 optional, 1 antenna:
*+12vdc
*GND
*WBus
*Ignition +12vdc
*Lights +12vdc (required if using LR remote to control, per Alex design)
*Running output -12vdc (for remote led, etc)
*1533 input +12v (could also be a 12v input from a switch in the car, acts as a simple on/off switch for the heater)
*Antenna wire (when using 3rd party RF remote unit)
Member Since: 11 Feb 2014
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 753
I'm very excited about this! 07 Land Rover Discovery III HSE
07 BMW 1200 GS Adventure
08 Mercedes Sprinter
18th Oct 2014 9:48 am
alex_pescaru
Member Since: 19 Dec 2010
Location: RO
Posts: 270
Thank you very much for sharing!
Question, if I may... Which program used for PCB design and 3D modeling?
I, for one, for PCB design, am using OrCAD but now I am searching for more intuitive alternatives.
19th Oct 2014 6:44 pm
tayaste
Member Since: 15 May 2013
Location: Chester
Posts: 7633
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
Code was almost finished, but never tested in hardware(time, time...
) - if you will, i can participate with testing(and/or PCB design if any) too.. Your project has a few things more 
