Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: on air
Posts: 2624
DOUBLE BATTERY cheap sys
Hi all,
I am going to change the battery after almost seven years of honorable service.
What is installed now is the original LR (VARTA).
The only 2 issues in the past were:
in 2009 at t -15 ° C,after 4 days of stop,had a very difficult start
and a winch rescue in Varano this year.
It never gave me any problems.
For the first problem I have now installed a battery maintainer solar cells,
for the second,a nice recharge got it back on track.
Now changing it with a VARTA (but it is true that Bosch now owns VARTA) or a Bosch S5 100Ah.
I could be in the market of an Optima yellow top,but not sure it will fit in the std case.
I would like to do the dual battery system(one new in the std case and the old-one in the second battery case).
I would start with the simple + to + and - to - sys
then I'll see if only use one service and another car just like in the camper(dual split batt with TRAXIDE).
Now do you have suggestions/tips/experiences to share with me?
grazie
PS here is the link to the italian trd I opened…..we need your help!
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2893
I'm not sure that I am interpreting you correctly but, if so, then.........
Unless you put a voltage sensitive relay (VSR) inline between the new and old batteries then I would avoid mixing 'old' and new' as you suggest (ie simple + to +, - to -); a poor old battery will pull down the good new one.
At the simplest level, a VSR will allow both batteries to charge from the same system but, once charged, will not allow the old battery to draw down the new one if there is a problem.Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
26th Nov 2013 3:39 pm
01coccobet
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: on air
Posts: 2624
Very good suggestion.
What kind/quality would you suggest?
My old battery is still working properly,so I believe could be fine.
I was suggested to put something like this in between
Durite marine battery isolator. Brand new Marine battery isolator and change over switch with solid copper contacts.
Rated 175 amps at 12v & 300 amps for 5 seconds
Selects between batteries one, two, both or off. M10 studs L 160mm x W 72 mm x H 160 mm.
Durite part number 0-605-10figuring it out!!!!
the best feeling:getting airborne.
26th Nov 2013 4:06 pm
01coccobet
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: on air
Posts: 2624
Member Since: 27 Nov 2012
Location: Southampton
Posts: 2648
Varta and Bosch batteries are both made in the same American owned Johnson Controls factory in Valencia. Bosch brand owned by Bosch of course, Varta & Optima brand owned by JCIPaul Redding
+44 (0)23 8052 2774
Order Parts Online at www.advancedfactors.co.uk
26th Nov 2013 4:15 pm
waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2893
We have used the BEP VSRs extensively on our twin battery systems for some of the boats and they work just fine; very compact too and seem to withstand a fair amount of abuse, rough ride and damp (but NOT immersion). I would check their input ratings against those of your alternator; not usually an issue on boats but may be so on a D3.
Have just seen your previous thread about the Durite 1-2-both switch; would avoid this as it requires manual intervention and is very old (but simple) technology. Their advantage is that they do allow the spare battery to be used to boost the main battery if required, but a jump lead would do that too.
They were initially replaced by blocking diodes but as these could give a 0.6v drop from input to output they have now been superceded by the VSRs. I think the specific BEP one you indicated is no longer in production, but they make others of different ratings (as do other manufacturers) Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
I have an optima Yellow (4.2YTS) in the second box and a 100A Varta AGM in the main.
The Optima is charged via a 200A VSR from Amber Valley here in the UK, cable is 16mm so good for about 110 Amps and protected by 80 Amp MIDI fuses Altox GSM FBH controller thread
IID Pro MV License - D3, D4 & RRS - Enabling, Updates, D4 & RRS Timed / Remote Climate, D4 Bluetooth fitting
PM me for details
Owner of the original "Beanie" grille
D4 & RRS style D3 grilles made to order
26th Nov 2013 5:24 pm
01coccobet
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: on air
Posts: 2624
thank you guys….
keep on figuring it out!!!!
the best feeling:getting airborne.
26th Nov 2013 5:36 pm
01coccobet
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: on air
Posts: 2624
Beanie
so I belive yours are connected + to + and - to - .
Do you think I would need to connect them in split circuit(main to power the starter and the secondary for the auxiliary systems ie winch,inverter etc)?
Are there any way to understand were to connect the second battery in this case?
Any picture of your connection?
Tksfiguring it out!!!!
the best feeling:getting airborne.
26th Nov 2013 5:44 pm
waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2893
The VSR will usually come with details of how to wire it up so the second battery is charged from the main circuit. In fact, I think the earlier link you had for the BEP VSR had a downloadable pdf file which may have covered this.Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
26th Nov 2013 5:56 pm
01coccobet
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: on air
Posts: 2624
yes indeed,
but I was wondering how and where the MIDI 80A fuse and the VSR were connected.
You are talking to a newbie about double battery…. figuring it out!!!!
the best feeling:getting airborne.
26th Nov 2013 6:00 pm
01coccobet
Member Since: 23 Feb 2009
Location: on air
Posts: 2624
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2893
OK - I'll try but Beanie (not Meanie!) may have a different installation;
all components are usually earthed to the vehicle via engine or chassis
VSR is connected inbetween the +ve terminals of both the main and second battery; the VSR will also need an earth connection
The fuse is usually on the output side of the second battery (ie between the battery and the components that it serves). I am not sure which rating you will require, but the winch is likely to be the main determinand in this.
Open to others for comment...........Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
26th Nov 2013 6:15 pm
waterbuoy
Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: Argyll
Posts: 2893
Your first link looks like a good old blocking diode, the second does not seem to be what we are talking about!
I just searched for 'BEP VSR' in google - you may get some results closer to home!Currently 2009 Disco 3 SE, 2013 MY D4 HSE and 2016 D4 SE
Previously:
TD5 Defender 110 CSW (230k miles)
300TDi Disco 1 (289k)
4 RR Classics (300-350k each, 2 manual, 2 auto)
110 V8 CSW (220k)
S3 109 hi cap pickup (ex RN)
S2A 88 Safari SW with lpg conversion (bloody lethal)
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