Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
At work where lots of the trucks run canbus systems so long as the ohms are correct which yours sounds like it is and the voltage are roughly the same as yours the fault is elsewhere.
As an example to check a nox sensor ecu, we check the voltage at the ecu using the earth wire to the ecu, then the can voltages again to the supplied earth, if ok its new nox sensor ecu time.
Takes minutes.
13th Jan 2016 8:37 pm
sam lr3
Member Since: 01 Jan 2016
Location: louisville, kentucky
Posts: 9
Well was getting p0628 code. I cleared that
Now I get u0167. Cleared that too
Still car will not stArt
Not sure where to go from here
15th Jan 2016 1:33 am
Glassman D3 Decade
Member Since: 01 Feb 2009
Location: Heysham Lancs
Posts: 285
Get the connector on the rear of the instrument cluster checked, another member suggested this to me and everyone said Canbus issue, it wasn't. I think it's pretty easy to get checked and might just be worth eliminating. Mine needed the cluster replacing which was about £300 fitted by main dealer so wasn't too bad. I wish I could help further as I know how frustrating an electrical issue can be. Hope you get sorted soon
15th Jan 2016 1:14 pm
sam lr3
Member Since: 01 Jan 2016
Location: louisville, kentucky
Posts: 9
I think I isolated the issue ( at least I hope)
Some of the wires at the instrument cluster wire harnes has insulation pinched.
Mainly the yellow/black , yellow/white and yellow/blue. There is green, and few red ones are pinched to but not a lot.
There was a wire tie at the connector ( I think put on at the factory) that was very tight. Once I took it out damage was apparent
I have few questions for any body who had this issue before or anybody who can lend a hand;
1. How can I confirm that the wire is not broken inside the insulation ?
2. Let's say it is broken, how can I fix it since it is so close to the connector. Don't have any slack to cut and solder
Thanks for ever bodies helps so far
16th Jan 2016 9:19 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
1. Continuity test.
2. Add in a patch wire to give you some working wire. Depending on the connector consider re-pinning the termination, but please use a proper crimper.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 01 Feb 2009
Location: Heysham Lancs
Posts: 285
Just trying to help m8 and it was my original post, would have been nice to at least respected that, good luck with your Disco, really hope you get it sorted.
16th Jan 2016 11:21 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 01 Feb 2009
Location: Heysham Lancs
Posts: 285
Robbie, you surprisingly put a ❓as if my response seemed abrupt or confusing to you.
I was simply trying to help Sam, but it feels a little unappreciated to post a possible fix to someone who's replying to a post that I originally started, for another member to jump in and to not even acknowledge my input seems a little short sighted. Sams description does match the issue I had, I guess it's why he responded to my post... All I'm saying is forum members told me Canbus was at fault, main dealers said the same and it turned out to be the cluster all along. It might be rare but it's a known issue with D3 and is worth checking.
17th Jan 2016 1:21 am
sam lr3
Member Since: 01 Jan 2016
Location: louisville, kentucky
Posts: 9
Glassman
I appreciate your input and sorry to hijack your post.I thought I mention this earlier in my post that I had the got my cluster checked.
They were able to confirm that the cluster is working fine.
Robbie
I am trying to do the continuty test.
Medium bus
Pin 17 (IP) and pin 3 (obd2) should have 0 Ohmas , correct
Same for pin 18(ip) and pin 11(obd2)
Am I on the right track here
17th Jan 2016 1:58 pm
Glassman D3 Decade
Member Since: 01 Feb 2009
Location: Heysham Lancs
Posts: 285
Hi Sam, you didn't hijack the post so no worries, at least you can eliminate the I pack, really hope you find the issue soon.
17th Jan 2016 2:16 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Glassman wrote:
Robbie, you surprisingly put a ❓as if my response seemed abrupt or confusing to you.
I was simply trying to help Sam, but it feels a little unappreciated to post a possible fix to someone who's replying to a post that I originally started, for another member to jump in and to not even acknowledge my input seems a little short sighted. Sams description does match the issue I had, I guess it's why he responded to my post... All I'm saying is forum members told me Canbus was at fault, main dealers said the same and it turned out to be the cluster all along. It might be rare but it's a known issue with D3 and is worth checking.
I'm sorry if I have upset you, but still puzzled as to what you have read into my replies as there was no deliberate intent to do so. I acknowledge that you started this post and I will leave this thread in your hands.
Regards.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 01 Feb 2009
Location: Heysham Lancs
Posts: 285
Glassman wrote:
Robbies point about the Canbus might be spot on, when I had the issue it didn't effect indicator flashers just door locks clicking, the I pack does seem to be a rarer issue. I cured the epb yellow light with an overlay cable and new compressor but this issue was entirely seperate to the non starting one.
Robbie, I've already acknowledged that you might be correct in your evaluation, Sams checked what I thought it might be and been able to dismiss this which is a good thing, you didn't upset me at all. The post was originally meant to help others who might have the same symptoms, Sams sounded very similar.
Anyway, Sam, hopefully Robbie or another member can help you with your continuity test, sorry I couldn't help further, maybe if you copy the post to the electrical section of the forum somebody will advise further. Don't give up Sam, electrical faults are really frustrating.
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