Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20787
How To - Air Con Condenser
Had a few requests to do a How To for an A/C condenser, and as luck would have it, had to change one yesterday. Remembered to take plenty of pics too
Before starting, make sure the A/C system has been de-gassed using the appropriate methods. A face full of A/C gas at 5 bar is not nice. Chances are the gas will have leaked out anyway if the condenser has a hole in it. Just remember, it's not very "correct" to de-gas it by holding a screwdriver in the hole to let all the gas out
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Start by removing all the accesories, grill and headlights
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Remove the top air intake pipe, and upper fan shroud:
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Cover the air intake to avoid dropping anything into it
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Undo top 2 bolts (T40) on each side:
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Undo these T40 bolts too, one each side. Will probably be very tight, and need working in and out with the Torx bit to prevent the bolt snapping:
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Undo the 2 bolts underneath the headlight clips on both sides. Before attempting to undo these, either unplug the crash sensors (located just behind these bolts) or disconnect the battery:
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Lift up and remove the radiator locating pegs:
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Unbolt the coolant bottle, and lift off the locating peg on the front panel:
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Lift up off the locating pegs on each side, and lever the front panel forwards:
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Need to move it about this far forward:
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Remove the plastic air duct. The clips are pushed in from behind, and need to go towards the engine bay to remove. A bit fiddly and awkward this bit:
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Unclip the P/S cooler pipes from the side of the radiator:
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Locate this plastic clip on the opposite end of the cooler. Squeeze both ends inwards, and push forward to remove:
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Pull cooler forward, and clear of the condensers path:
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Undo the 2 bolts holding the pipes onto the condenser. Also the sneaky little bolt under them holding the bracket onto the radiator:
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Locate, and undo 2 bolts holding condenser to rad:
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Begin lifting condenser out of the car, this side first:
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Then wiggle/lift/slide upwards and clear of the car:
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The only thing to watch for is the 2 locating tabs on the condenser locate correctly in the plastic hooks:
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Refit, have system re-gassed, job done :thumbsup:
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 28 Apr 2011
Location: Perthshire
Posts: 742
Was that the same job you had on the ramps today. If so it didn't take you long getting that back together again a top Job indeed.... Puts my 90 to shame with all that technology
2nd Aug 2013 8:29 pm
hugeviking
Member Since: 08 Jun 2010
Location: cotswolds
Posts: 1482
Thanks for taking the time to do the write up D M I guess I hope I will never need it but it is fantastic to have the info if required. FWIW I have probably saved nearly 2 grand because of this site. . Many thanks.
Andi.
2nd Aug 2013 8:45 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20787
D3 Bev wrote:
Was that the same job you had on the ramps today. If so it didn't take you long getting that back together again a top Job indeed.... Puts my 90 to shame with all that technology
Member Since: 28 Apr 2011
Location: Perthshire
Posts: 742
Where the heck do you start with that.......... Never mind finish...
2nd Aug 2013 9:05 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20787
The apprentice guessed correctly the 2 headlight connectors. I told him I would give him a million pounds for every other connector he could guess correctly. Didn't have to give him ANY money My D3 Build Thread
Member Since: 28 Apr 2011
Location: Perthshire
Posts: 742
To be fair I don't think I would be taking any money of you either!!
Unless the connectors were actually plugged in to the headlights that is
2nd Aug 2013 9:28 pm
robo
Member Since: 30 Jul 2010
Location: solihull
Posts: 298
as per pm many thanksgone not forgotten 2 classics
gone forgotten 2 p38s
current d3 se 2006 td standard for now
2nd Aug 2013 10:24 pm
Barn1e D3 Decade
Member Since: 28 Aug 2006
Location: Mid-sussex
Posts: 2021
DM, good write up. Do I take it you created room to lift the condenser out by moving the front panel forward? That seems easier than my method which was to move the radiator towards the engine to create the space. A lot more hassle and time consuming. Hopefully I wont have to do it for another 8 years and when I do, I will try your approach.2005, TDV6 S, Auto, 190k miles, owned from new, V8 Brake Upgrade, Nancom Evo, RLD protector, BAS EGR blanking & Remap, separate ATF cooler, changing all the fluids ahead of time.
2nd Aug 2013 11:10 pm
john ryan
Member Since: 05 Apr 2006
Location: leamington spa
Posts: 121
just my luck - decided to have a non LR indy change mine last week. Was 3 hours labour reasonable, including re-gassing etc? - looks quite a long job.
5th Aug 2013 12:54 pm
Disco_Mikey
Member Since: 29 May 2007
Location: Dundee, Scotland
Posts: 20787
Barn1e wrote:
DM, good write up. Do I take it you created room to lift the condenser out by moving the front panel forward? That seems easier than my method which was to move the radiator towards the engine to create the space. A lot more hassle and time consuming
Member Since: 05 Apr 2006
Location: leamington spa
Posts: 121
Thanks Mikey - that was my assessment before your excellent guide appeared. Since I knew I would have to use a re-gasser, I thought it best to put the whole job out.
6th Aug 2013 8:21 am
DK.44
Member Since: 01 Mar 2014
Location: Devon
Posts: 285
Thanks for this guide, found out yesterday that mine had a hole in so have passed this onto my mate for a guide for doing it for me!
20th Apr 2014 9:09 am
markthegad
Member Since: 06 Sep 2009
Location: Newcastle
Posts: 636
Done this today, great post which made it so easy to do.
30th Jun 2014 7:59 pm
robo
Member Since: 30 Jul 2010
Location: solihull
Posts: 298
did mine yesterday was so glad of this guide,thanks again DMgone not forgotten 2 classics
gone forgotten 2 p38s
current d3 se 2006 td standard for now
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