Member Since: 29 Jun 2013
Location: Croydon
Posts: 73
Drivers Door Open
Hi all. I'm presuming there is a sensor somewhere in the drivers door which is faulty as of this afternoon I've been constantly getting the 'Drivers Door Open' message on the dashboard info screen and I cannot remote lock the car (I'm pressing the lock button on the dash and then shutting the drivers door at the moment).
Is this something easy to fix (e.g. can I do it, whatever it is, by removing the interior door panel) or does it require a hook up to a diagnostic tool etc? Any help gratefully received as it also prohibits the height adjustment of the suspension, so I can't currently get into or out of the office car park unless I deflate my tyres...not overly convenient!
11th Aug 2013 4:52 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Fault code reader would give a little more info, but not essential. The ajar switch is built into the lock and the issue you have can be caused by a misaligned striker plate, bad wiring or (most commonly) a problem with the lock itself.
Realigning striker - free
Wiring - cost time rather than money
New lock mechanism - about £45 last time I looked
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 29 Jun 2013
Location: Croydon
Posts: 73
Hi Robbie
Many thanks. The drivers door doesn't shut with the same soft whump noise that the other doors make, it's a little more metallic so I'm guessing something isn't perfectly aligned.
11th Aug 2013 5:04 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yes that could be it, or you could be missing the bung from the bottom of the door and the noise is nothing to do with the lock. Check that the bung is still in place first as they get kicked off with ease. You can test the lock by trying it over a screwdriver or similar.
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
If you have a multimeter you could do a continuity check on pins 8 and 4 with the lock simulated closed (ie using a screwdriver to close the claw) - this would check the ajar switch itself or tell you if the fault lay somewhere else.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 29 Jun 2013
Location: Croydon
Posts: 73
Yup, bung is still in place, though the tyre pressure sticker isn't on the door (or anywhere on the car) so I reckon the door has had some 'work' in the past.
Sorry, what do you mean by testing the lock by trying it over a screwdriver??
11th Aug 2013 5:18 pm
tomtom86
Member Since: 09 Mar 2013
Location: Here and there
Posts: 590
Chances are its a door latch, had one doing this before that turned out to be a wiring pin half backed out of a connector on the cjb, took a lot of head scratching to find
11th Aug 2013 5:23 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
I mean open the door and use a srcrewdriver to push back the latch from the open position, through the safety latch position to the closed position.
I've added a jpg to my gallery that has the detail and the pins used for the continuity check:
Click image to enlarge
Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Member Since: 29 Jun 2013
Location: Croydon
Posts: 73
Latch moves freely enough. Manually adjusting it has no effect on the behaviour of the remote lock (e.g. it still sounds the horn and doesn't lock the doors)
11th Aug 2013 5:57 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
If it still does not work with the latch in the fully locked position you need to do the continuity check next.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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