Member Since: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Wetherby
Posts: 32
Heater
The heater in my car doesn't seem to be as hot as usual, is this due to the cold spell we are having or is there another
reason????
Even when the car reaches normal running temp, on full it's not hot hot!
Thanks guys
15th Jan 2012 10:09 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73148
Never found heater to be lower than normal, even in -20c outside. Once it was warmed up it was nice & toasty.
15th Jan 2012 10:11 pm
Saj2421
Member Since: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Wetherby
Posts: 32
Heater
Is it just me, am I just feeling the cold more......
15th Jan 2012 10:15 pm
character
Member Since: 31 Dec 2007
Location: wiltshire
Posts: 5781
should be hot after about 30 mins even in subzero temp
15th Jan 2012 10:17 pm
DSL Keeper of the wheelie bin
Member Since: 11 May 2006
Location: Off again! :-)
Posts: 73148
Tell me about it.
Re the d3, thermostat?
15th Jan 2012 10:17 pm
Saj2421
Member Since: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Wetherby
Posts: 32
30 mins! That long? The heater in my ffrr takes about 10 min. Maybe it is ok then.
Not sure what car you have but have you checked to see if the FBH is running to help keep the engine temp up...in this cold weather.
Flack
15th Jan 2012 10:31 pm
mister.d
Member Since: 13 Jan 2012
Location: leamington spa
Posts: 15
yeah,i'm having trouble with my heater, but i think down to the fact that the funking engine won't start !!
15th Jan 2012 10:37 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Always worth doing a self-test and re-cal on the HEVAC before doing anything else. The incorrect temperature could be due to the settings on the mixing system being all out of whack.
Only takes a minute too.
Quote:
With ignition off press and hold the ECON & RECIRC buttons whilst turning ignition on (no need to start car).
The control module will then compare the current HEVAC actuator motor positions with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.
If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.
To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position.
Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.
If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.
Or it could be that your internal temp sensor (behind little grill to left of steering column) picking up the warmth of the HEVAC ducting rather then the cabin air. This led to the 'famous' Land Rover 'Foam Sock Solution' that wrapped the sensor in a bit of cheap foam to isolate it.Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
Thanks for the feed back guys, it's a 05 diesel s model. How would I know if the fbh is working?
First try what Robbie has suggested then when you first start the car in the morning when its cold enough 6 degrees or lower you should see smoke from the small exhaust pipe, you can see this through the gap between the front passenger side wheel and the body work its about 22 mm in size and should smoke from here. If your outside the car you can hear it fire up as well.
Flack
16th Jan 2012 9:42 am
Saj2421
Member Since: 21 Jul 2011
Location: Wetherby
Posts: 32
Will go through what robbie suggested and report back
16th Jan 2012 10:10 am
JensV
Member Since: 22 Jun 2010
Location: Aalst
Posts: 68
this self-test, I suppose it's with a cold engine?
Robbie wrote:
Always worth doing a self-test and re-cal on the HEVAC before doing anything else. The incorrect temperature could be due to the settings on the mixing system being all out of whack.
Only takes a minute too.
Quote:
With ignition off press and hold the ECON & RECIRC buttons whilst turning ignition on (no need to start car).
The control module will then compare the current HEVAC actuator motor positions with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.
If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.
To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position.
Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.
If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.
Or it could be that your internal temp sensor (behind little grill to left of steering column) picking up the warmth of the HEVAC ducting rather then the cabin air. This led to the 'famous' Land Rover 'Foam Sock Solution' that wrapped the sensor in a bit of cheap foam to isolate it.
With ignition off press and hold the ECON & RECIRC buttons whilst turning ignition on (no need to start car).
The control module will then compare the current HEVAC actuator motor positions with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED.
If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally.
To confirm that there are no errors, turn the ignition switch to the OFF position, then back to the ON position.
Observe the operation of the programmed defrost LED.
If there are errors present, the programmed defrost LED will flash and the system will attempt to calibrate itself.
Where did this quote come from? It makes no sense at all!!
Read this bit carefully
"The control module will then compare the current HEVAC actuator motor positions with the values stored in the module and will indicate an error by flashing the ECON LED."
So, if you have an error, the ECON LED will flash. What if there are no errors? Does the ECON LED do anything at all?
Now the next line:
"If there are no errors, the LED will go out and the system will function normally"
Contradicts the first bit doesn't it? If you have no errors, why would the light be on?
It gets worse - to confirm there are no errors, turn the ignition off and on again and watch the program defrost LED. If errors are present..... WHAT!! ?? I thought we were confirming there are no errors DOH!
I tried this on my car yesterday and holding the 2 buttons while switching the ignition on caused the ECON LED to flash so I released the buttons and cycled the ignition off and on again but the program defrost LED didn't light.
I tried it again. The ECON LED flashed again so I held the buttons down and after a while, the LED stopped flashing and the aircon started up as it normally would. I released the buttons, cycled the ignition and this time got one very brief, faint flash from the program defrost LED so I don't know if if my HEVAC has anything wrong with it or if it has re-caled itself.
Very confusing Now an ex-D3 owner after 7 happy years. Miss the car but not the big bills
17th Apr 2012 12:13 pm
Robbie
Member Since: 05 Feb 2006
Location: ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Posts: 17932
Yep, it's Land Rover speak.
Light comes on but then goes out is not flashing.
Light comes on, goes out, comes on, goes out, comes on etc is flashing.
I've never had much luck with the ignition switch test but the flashing light and cal process does work and can work very well. The bit that remains hidden is how out of whack the actuators motors are. It can be minor and the actual change in the re-cal is undetectable by the user. However, it can be so far out of whack that the temperatures and airflow can be before the re-cal and perfect afterwards. Tired actuators may never achieve a perfect re-cal; it's up to the owner if they are good enough or that deeper in-dash surgery is required. Land Rover - Turning Drivers into Mechanics Since 1948
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Where did this quote come from? It makes no sense at all!! 
before the re-cal and perfect afterwards. Tired actuators may never achieve a perfect re-cal; it's up to the owner if they are good enough or that deeper in-dash surgery is required. 
