Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
Easy.. (well explaining is easy and technically also not difficult, but space and actual the work above your shoulders might be bigger challenge ). if you slackening all the main bearings slightly to give them some room..and then remove and change the mainbearings 1 by 1! They turn very easy once the pressure is off, no notches etc.
You can use a soft alloy or hard plastic to give the upper one a first go, i did use a hard but bendable plastic to turn them.. use plenty of fresh oil on the soft metal side when replacing
You want to avoid, the crankshaft is hanging in the oil seals, so that is why 1 by 1 and only a slight slackening…Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
3rd Jan 2022 9:05 pm
Fuxl
Member Since: 29 Jul 2020
Location: Kirchstetten
Posts: 96
He thinks as well that it is possible, but he has a good point......for what reason should I do it?
I have no chance to measure the crankshaft. So I could only use standard bearing sizes.
And I couldn'T polish the crankshaft at all.
So he thinks the improvement would be minor.
I don't have a problem with the engine at the moment. it runs "ok".....or as ok as a tdv6 can run in the Winter, I guess.
But I want it as reliable as possible with the "worn" camshafts.
Is it worth the hassle? will this improve the engine lifetime?
best regards
Roland
4th Jan 2022 11:01 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
I did show it to you earlyer…why i think it is a smart idea…
The mainbearing seating on a TDV6 is only relying on the mountingtension…
Due to low oil pressures in these engines, the bearings are wearing rather quick, so the tension disappears rather quick, so they can spin rather early… (what they tend to do more often than in other engines)
The mileage belonging to the different shells is in my earlyer post…,(see above)
But again, this is what the mainbearings look like, rather quick..in a TDV6
Click image to enlarge
I have pulled more 100 different engines apart, 3 of them were TDV6 engines, believe me, only in the TDV6 is saw this kind of wear, at rather low mileage and all 3 had the same patern in relation to the mileage…
Polishing is’n needed if you just change them as a precaution…. New fresh shells are always better than worn ones, even if there is slight wear in the crankshaft, the crankshaft is much much harder than the softmetal on the shells..
“Minor” improvement is debatable i think…
Christian, may be very knowledgeable, or just a guy who does things on youtube, but that youtube work doesn’t make him a specialist by default… (not making assumptions here, i just don’t know what is trade or specialism is) it all depends on what you want at what moment… but this is work you can do as a preparation. Turbo’s and such parts “can” be repaired/changed in need, once underway, even in the bush/dessert/mountains though not preferable, but it is possible, mainbearings, gone and the trip is gone… in a D3/D4
I am certainly NOT a LR specialist, but doing engine work on motorcycles as a trade and i can only tell you what i would do (and did on my engines) If you need a reliable engine for overlanding without much hassle in foreign country’s..
Just MHO Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
4th Jan 2022 11:32 pm
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
You can measure the crank through the bearing clearances using plastigauge.
I also dont think that crank polishing will be required on your engine, it shouldnt have any journal damage as your shells are worn but not failed.
If the shells do spin your engine will be beyond repair.Andrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
4th Jan 2022 11:45 pm
Fuxl
Member Since: 29 Jul 2020
Location: Kirchstetten
Posts: 96
plastigauge from underneath the car?
is this even possible? because the crank would "sit" on this half of the bearing.
Shouldn't this be zero? or almost zero when I assemble it dry to do the plastigauge?
I think I will give the whole thing a try.
It seems reasonable from the cost side and the time afford side.
I will keep you up to date here.
best regards
Roland
Ps: I think Christian is a pretty damn good technician. And a perfectionist. And that's the reason why he doesn't recommend to do only half of the job, like I will do.
5th Jan 2022 9:16 am
aja4x4
Member Since: 14 Apr 2019
Location: Westbury
Posts: 2463
Yes your right about the Plastigauge my mistake.
Normally I have the engine upside down to do it.
Personally I wouldn't be rebuilding an engine in the vehicle you already have wear on the cam journals everything needs stripping, cleaning and measuring to see if its worth rebuilding your engine.
Christian is very fussy on his measurements but I think you have to be on these enginesAndrew
D3 2.7tdv6 2005
D4 3.0 SDV6 Commercial died and gone to LR heaven
D5 3.0 SDV6 HSE
5th Jan 2022 2:35 pm
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
Rebuilding is another thing, than changing the weakest points on this engine, the shells…
Your engine will not fail on those camshafts and its bearings…
Especially when keeping “overlanding” in mind..Best regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
5th Jan 2022 8:23 pm
lynalldiscovery
Member Since: 22 Dec 2009
Location: Maidstone
Posts: 7274
aja4x4 wrote:
lynalldiscovery wrote:
My right hand back tensioner has always tinkled from cold start for a few seconds since I have had the car, tried 5/40 and the tinkle lasted twice as long before oil light went out, so what you might gain in increased load bearing/space filling with the thicker oil you might lose out on with increased wear before oil pressure is up?
I think that first cam cap pic has a story to tell of some previous failure?
5w40 will have the same properties as 5w30 when cold but will retain its viscosity longer at higher temps
Only saying as I find, 5/40 is tinkling twice as long as the 5/30 from cold start.
Twice I have tried 5/4o, after several previous changes with 5/30, both times same result, I wont be trying it again.
5th Jan 2022 9:19 pm
Fuxl
Member Since: 29 Jul 2020
Location: Kirchstetten
Posts: 96
Motolab wrote:
I did show it to you earlyer…why i think it is a smart idea…
........
But again, this is what the mainbearings look like, rather quick..in a TDV6
Click image to enlarge
...........
Hi
I followed your recommendation, and now I'm in the middle of the bearing change.
The old ones are out, and the new ones in, but the engine is still open.
200000km on it
Main bearings:
Click image to enlarge
conrod bearings
Click image to enlarge
maybe I will do a complete thread about the change from beneath the car. its not so straight forward and easy as I thought.
But, what on our cars is really easy?
7th Mar 2022 8:25 am
Motolab
Member Since: 18 Oct 2019
Location: Sleen
Posts: 1820
Good job!
Worth the effort i think!
But here are a few challenges indeed…
Getting the mainbearing supports out for instance…
Watch out with those side bolts when re assemble… they seem to be made of cheese
And can break before you reach the correct nm torque I experiencedBest regards
Harold
Always looking for Pre '55's & Pre war British Motorcycles! knowing or having one for sale? PM please. I visit the UK 6 times a year
Ps. I edit my texts quite often, english is not my native language, so I will edit My “typo’s” etc.
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). if you slackening all the main bearings slightly to give them some room..and then remove and change the mainbearings 1 by 1! They turn very easy once the pressure is off, no notches etc.
