Member Since: 06 Apr 2016
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 545
EPB after jam, new gears of just shoe service
Hi,
My EBP jammed last week, I did the standard LR procedure to release and it re engaged and worked. I booked it into my local indi for a brake service and it jammed there too. The indi diddnt progress and work and wanted me to double check as they were leaning towards a gear refit in the EPB to do the job properly.
Whats the thinking and experiance here? this thread looks optimistic re fixing the root cause of seized shoes / linkages and correct adjustment.
https://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/epb-repairu...epb+labour and other threads seem to be happy without going all the way into the gears.
In the past few years the car has "squeeled" a couple of times but never constantly as if so id already have done this.
Its used very little at the moment, once or twice every 2 weeks and hadn't been used for seveal days when it jammed (refused to release in my garrage)
I have only ever needed to do a manual release once.
Based on the above im optomistic that its worth just sorting out the shoes etc and I can leave the EPB module alone. If I did go for a rebuild on the EPB gears what would be an estimate for hours work to get it off, rebuilt and back on.
I dont mind paying money to keep the car "right" but dont want to spend unnecessarily.
Thanks.Disco 3: Lotus Elise S1: Ferguson T20: Audi A2
10th Aug 2021 8:10 pm
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4909
As it's a 09 its possible the original shoes and associated bits are all still there from the factory.
If that's the case I'd strip and rebuild inc new shoes, springs, expanders, adjusters, clips, the whole 9 yds! If the discs are tired fire them too! Personally I just order everything as you don't want to find you're missing a bit when the hubs are opened in the middle of the job.
Its not expensive parts wise provided the cables are still OK, but if rust and corrosion has got in there it can be time consuming. Pricey too if the cables are shot but hopefully they'll be OK as usually they are. yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
10th Aug 2021 9:04 pm
carbore
Member Since: 06 Apr 2016
Location: Cornwall
Posts: 545
Hi, thanks hadn't considered the "wheel end" parts but as you say after a quick bit of research they are not expensive so makes sense to swap out rather than just free up and lube.
I think im going "all in" and get this overhaul kit
Thats got everything including cables and the cogs for the EPB. Labour will stack up (dont really feel like DIY on this one) but it will all be done for a long long time.Disco 3: Lotus Elise S1: Ferguson T20: Audi A2
11th Aug 2021 8:38 am
PROFSR G
Member Since: 06 Mar 2017
Location: Lost
Posts: 4909
Well I did say "the whole 9 yards" but that's taking it to a whole other level completely.
Replacing the backplates would mean new wheel bearings also, as the whole rear knuckle carrier would have to be completely stripped down. And if you're going to do that you might as well change the upper and lower knuckles while you're in there!!(cheap)
That said, if the back plates are badly corroded then you have little choice really. If they are OK then you are using a hammer to crack an egg, but it all depends on the condition and how rusted up things are. If you do use the back plates, get them sprayed with a quality anti chip/rust coat before fitting. Otherwise they'll rot within 18 months!
My advice would be to get it looked at and assessed correctly before proceeding. Just be sure whoever is doing this work is familiar with the this system and has done it before! (ie LR Indy specialist)
Do not give it to an inexperienced workshop!yµ (idµ - eAµ) ψ=mψ
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